I'm worried the moulding won't look right on this small of a piece.

Are there any suggestions or feedback?

Is there a chance you could take a couple close-ups of the problems areas?

Is that drawer on the left going to open? Or is that the issue with the casing you were talking about?

This is the offending shim that I'm most worried about. The others could be corrected with a taller toe kick.

the drawer does open.

Anothe shot

Before I added molding, for the shim pictured, I would first try trimming the jagged edge back with an exacto knife, and coloring it darker brown with a stain pen. Then see if you can live with how it looks. I think I'd prefer that to adding molding. This doesn't address the bigger question of how they are shimming it in the first place, but could fix the appearance.

Those cabinets look absolutely beautiful but that shim would not be acceptable to me either. Ours are shimmed in a couple places but it is not visible at all. There is no way a reputable installer would think that is acceptable work.

FWIW - I can't stand floor moulding, especially with white paint. It just gets chipped and catches dirt. The kitchen is still being worked on. It seems like, as suggested above, the shim is cleaned up, you won't notice. I have a few very slightly raised areas, never notice them.

Agreed trim shim with exacto knife and stain it . We used stain touch up pens I bought at Walmart in the paint department , you may notice it because you know it's there no one else will once it's stained.

They should not be wood shims either. Composite, plastic, or laminate samples attached together is what they should be using.

I said before that ours was shimmed but invisible now...my hubby said the toe kick covers (or whatever they are called) were scribed to the floor and completely covered the gap in any areas where a shim was needed. Is your toe kick already installed? It kind of looks like it is but not sure.

What about water getting under the cabinets? Does it need to have a small bead of clear caulk around the perimeter? I keep thinking of dirty mop water getting slopped up under there.

I guess your cabinets can't have the toekick added afterward because you have a cute base. (I really like how that bit is done with the angles.) But really, those cabinets look like they're floating. That is NOT something I'd be happy with. That looks like a serious gap. Do any cabinets actually touch the floor anywhere???

I don't have any suggestions short of caulking and painting, and that would be a miserable job.

I agree they look a little floaty. Our cabs have the toe kick scribed but seems like if you are doing them that way the cabs should have been scribed. Not sure what the best fix is at this point since counters are in. Caulk may take care of it.

For the recessed areas, you could add a second toe skin (1/8" or 1/4" thick) to the existing toe kick, which could be set flush to the floor, covering the shims. That would have to end with a back-bevel cut dying into your angled base, but could fix the main long runs of toe kick area.

Another vote for 1/4" x 1" trim.

Did they understand that you hate floor molding? Maybe that's why they didn't do it correctly there's usually something to cover up a lot of potential issues. I am a little unclear on why I having an apron on the bottom of the cabinets is going to be any different than have floor molding. Can you explain?

Trim down there would ruin the look of those sweet toekick angles. Cabinetmaker should have known floor trim wouldn't work with this style and said something before starting.

Lots of things could have happened before the counters went on. Now, it's add quarter round or toe kick over that to close the gap, or live with the gap.

"In regards to your question and pictures, yes, we can supply shoe molding as stated on 9/26. Also, we have the extra piece of hardware that you requested here at office." This is from the cabinet maker. They want us to install the shoe molding ourselves, which at this point just isn't happening.

I did find this trim that I think could look okay even with the angles.

It's kind of a square shoe moulding.

I'm scared whatever they do will turn out like this, which I don't like the looks of:

Seems like they did not take into account that your floor is not level? It looks like the wood floor is existing and the new cabinets were set on top? If so the condition of the floor should have been noted and taken into account in the construction and install of the cabinets.

Quarter round would be completely unacceptable to me, but I do think you could find a moulding profile that would complement the design. You may need to look through moulding profiles to find what you want and show it to the cabinet maker. You might be able to see samples at a moulding/trim specialty lumber yard or perhaps your cabinet maker will make a few samples for you to consider.

Dianna, the molding that you show in your pic should be easy enough to source. My concern would be getting an exact color/sheen match to your cabinets which I assume are factory finished and the molding would be painted on site.

They want you to install the molding yourselves? That's not right.

Before I realized the extent of the shims issue and that it was an installation problem, I asked about molding and he said floor guys should do it. I told him I was worried about the paint matching, otherwise my husband could probably do it, so he said he'd paint them for us, then we can install. I haven't pushed back yet, as I wanted to make sure we are in the right here. Plus, we still would need to paint over any nail holes to touch up. They actually paint the cabinets at their shop, there is no factory. These are full custom cabinets. I'm going to tell him we aren't comfortable installing, and don't feel that it's our responsibility to do so. It's not straight forward angles anyways. His response above was to me asking if there were any plans to actually cover the shims, as the cabinets look unfinished. I asked about doing a longer toe kick, and that's what his response was, just using shoe molding, something he has already acknowledged that they had no plans to do until I asked. I'm just shocked they were actually planning to leave the cabinets looking like this and had no intention of coming back out.

Thanks!

The GC should have provided level walls and floors. Not the fault of the cabinet installer, period.