we have a franke fireclay sink. I will call the piece of mdf that we scribed the "sink surround" because i don't know the proper name... at first we tried lifting the sink and tracing around it, but it was impossible to be accurate. so what i wound up doing was, with the sink in place, i measured the space between the edge of the sink and the end of where the sink surround should end (to line up with the cabinet doors below)... let's say that was 2.25". then measured the space from the bottom of sink to just above the doors below... let's say 5". Then I cut the piece of mdf the total overall width top and bottom, then marked off those measurements and cut that bit out with a jigsaw. So I was left with a U shaped piece 2.25" on the sides and 5" on the bottom. i think we did some sanding to get it a really nice fit. I have a teeny bit to caulk on the corner where it turns from side to bottom, but it's barely noticeable now, with caulk and the color matched paint it will be perfect. now like i said, we used mdf so we could have just done it over if we messed up without being devestated. but i think your cardboard looks pretty good, looks snug to fit. good luck! i want to see it when you're done!!

hi mudworm! here is live_wire's post, and the link to thread below. RE: lower cabinet molding question (Follow-Up #8) posted by: live_wire_oak on 02.21.2009 at 09:44 am in Kitchens Forum A skin is not a "decorative" end panel exactly, it is a thin veneered panel that takes up the 3/8" gap from the cabinet box to the face frame and makes the cabinet sides flush. Cabinet boxes, even if they color match, are usually finished with a vinyl or melamine finish rather than real wood veneered plywood, and the skin not only takes up that gap, but it provides a real wood surface that will age similarly to the actual wood of the face frame and doors. WIthout a skin, the sides will stay the same color, while the wood changes color over time. This is one reason that I usually offer a different option for customers who are DIYing an install. I suggest upgrading to "furniture finished plywood ends" in which the cabinet boxes are made of plywood with a wood veneered exterior that is flush with the face frame rather than having that gap that you're dealing with. Skins are what I order when a pro is doing the install, and he just brad nails them in place and putty fills the tiny holes. Skins are usually about 15% cheaper than flush finished sides, but flush finished sides are easier for DIYers to deal with. This is definately something that your KD should have gone over with you before you ordered. THe decorative end panels that you ordered should have been applied over skins as well. There is less chance of them shifting over time as when they are applied and have that 3/8" void underneath them. Here is a link that might be useful: thread: ''lower cabinet molding question''

Thanks for all the great responses. It's good to know from the variety of answers that there are many different ways to do it right (though I know that doesn't mean aren't many MORE ways to do it wrong :-). Another thing I've always wondered about with shims and EZ-levellers is that it would seem to concentrate the weight of the cabinets, counters, and contents into just a few spots vs. distributing the weight equally along the floor. Given that everyone uses some sort of shim, that technique must work fine, but it seems like it would make it more likely that some parts of the floor (those further away from a joist) would sink more over time than those directly over a joist. And it would put more stress on the cabinet (though if it's well-built that shouldn't be a problem). To make the cabinets fit together as smoothly possible, I was thinking I could join a run of three cabinets together (to each other) before installation. I've seen that suggested in forums and DIY videos. But if I do that, it doesn't seem like 4 shims/levellers at the 4 corners would be enough - the center cabinet would effectively be floating. But trying to shim that assembly at 8 points would be awfully tricky. Any thoughts on that?

tried to grab some in different lighting and with fiff wall paint. i swear its even less orange in real life- or even in my camera reel before it posts here