Poly embryonic key lime seedlings?
Laura LaRosa (7b)
7 years ago
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Laura LaRosa (7b)
7 years agoRelated Discussions
My 10 yrs old kaffir lime tree does not flower
Comments (25)Like animals, trees grown from seed must pass through several phases of development before they become sexually mature and capable of producing reproductive parts (blooms/ seeds/ fruit). The plant phases of seed - seedling - juvenile - sexually mature are roughly mirrored in human developmental stages of embryonic - infantile - juvenile - adult/ sexually mature. A freshly sprouted seedling is no more capable of producing reproductive parts (blooms/ seeds/ fruit) than an infant. Too, a plant's aging process is different than an animal's. Where animals age chronologically, plants age ontogenetically. Ontogenetic aging can be thought of in terms of how many cell divisions have occurred to move the plant to its current phase of development. One might reason that the most recent new growth would be the youngest part of the plant, but ontogenetically, it is the the oldest part of the plant because it has taken many more cell divisions to produce the newest parts. Ontogenetically, the youngest part of a tree grown from seed will always be the root to shoot transition area at the base of the trunk, no matter how old the tree is chronologically. Pruning a tree back hard can easily remove all existing mature growth and return it to a juvenile phase that would require a considerable amount of new growth before the wood again becomes mature. All factors that influence growth rate have an impact on how long (chronologically) it takes a plant to become sexually mature, so thinking that a change in nutrition alone will cause a plant to bloom is misguided. The fastest seedlings to mature within any given species will depend on how proficient Mother Nature or the plant's grower is at providing ideal cultural conditions. Ideal cultural conditions = most rapid growth rate and shortest period of time to reach maturity; this, simply because ideal conditions are most conducive to cell divisions and therefore a fruitful tree at a younger chronological age. It should be noted that applying nutrients or other products in willy nilly fashion with no knowledge of whether or not there is an actual deficiency of those nutrients or no good reason to apply them is highly likely to be limiting in terms of both growth and rate of maturation. Whenever we discuss what is or isn't an appropriate part of the methodology we use to make certain our plants get all the nutrients essential to growth and good health, we would probably first want to be sure our objectives are on target. It's difficult to argue with the idea that our focus in supplying supplemental nutrition to our plants should be on ensuring all the nutrients plants normally assimilate from the soil are A) IN the soil and available for uptake at all times, B) in the soil in a favorable ratio - that is to say in a ratio that mimics the ratio at which the plant actually uses the nutrient, C) at a concentration high enough to ensure no nutritional deficiencies, yet still low enough to ensure the plant's ability to take up water efficiently, and the nutrients dissolved in that water won't be impeded (by a high concentration of solubles in the soil solution). The part in bold is where growers often run afoul of sound husbandry. By adding unnecessary nutrients we A) skew the ratio of nutrients, each to the others, such that an excess of one nutrient causes a deficiency of one or more other nutrients, and B) make it more difficult for the plant to assimilate water and nutrients. So, for plants in containers, best results can be had by choosing 1 fertilizer with an appropriate nutrient ratio and all the nutrients essential to normal growth. Forget the snake oil products and claims made on product packaging by sellers whose only goal is separating you from your money. For plants in the landscape, a soil test is ESSENTIAL for any grower aiming at providing the best cultural conditions possible. "A little extra" is almost always going to be limiting rather than beneficial; otherwise, it wouldn't be "extra". Al...See MoreDwarf Key Lime
Comments (7)Well you don't have to use the specific ingredients, there are substitutes that work. An easy way that Mike used to do is to screen MG through a bug screen, then add extra perlite and about 10% of the peat back (Mike if I'm off feel free to correct). You'd want to add a little dolomite lime too 1 tbsp per gallon. I use the gritty mix with MG 15-5-10 all-purpose fertilizer with epsom salt and vinegar added. I've had very good results since I added the gypsum into the mix and epsom salt into the fertilizer (wanted to see what would happen without it, extremely stunted growth). What have you done with it in the winter? Obviously it has survived so I'm just curious....See MoreDo you have a persian lime in the ground in zone 8(SC)?
Comments (7)Thanks to you all for the response.I am starting to expriment with cold harrdy citrus in ground this year.Finally brave enough to do it.Stan McKenzie and his pix of citrus hooked me!!! My persian lime was put in the ground because it was growing roots like crazy out of its pot(15 gallon).I have had it for three years and it gets minimal winter protection(A-frame with plastic,250 watt brooder bulb when temps...See MoreTrue from seed
Comments (17)great discussion. going back to some basics in biology and genetics everything can POTENTIALLY be true to seed. all plants are anuploidy (more than 2 sets of chromosomes (humans have 2)) which means the more sets of chromosomes the higher the genteic diversity and the less likely the seed will be like the parents. whether a seed is "true" is obviously a bit more complicated but you ALWAYS take a gamble when growing from seeds. in general, a grafted or cutting plant is less "healthy" than a plant grown from seed but you know exactly what you get. but who knows... with seeds you may just find and create that perfect chromosomal mix that leads to a great fruit and new cultivar. oh the perils and anguish of gambling. grin. sorry for getting so deep.LOL...See Moreponcirusguy6b452xx
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoSilica
7 years agoLaura LaRosa (7b)
7 years agoSilica
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7 years agoLaura LaRosa (7b)
7 years agoDave in NoVA • N. Virginia • zone 7A
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoLaura LaRosa (7b)
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7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoLaura LaRosa (7b)
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoUser
7 years agoponcirusguy6b452xx
7 years agoLaura LaRosa (7b)
7 years agoUser
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agocalamondindave
7 years agoLaura LaRosa (7b)
7 years agoTrinaJulie
7 years agoDave in NoVA • N. Virginia • zone 7A
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoLaura LaRosa (7b)
7 years agoDave in NoVA • N. Virginia • zone 7A
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agocourtneymstuart
5 years ago
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