If you scratch off the bark on one of the leafless branches and it is not green then I would remove the tree and plant another one or something else altogether. The spout looking thing next to the trunk is actually an emitter and it would be helpful for you to know how many gallons per hour it releases when it is on. My guess is that the emitter doesn't put out enough water for your tree, especially in the climate that you have. Additionally, with emitters, you have to make sure the area for water output is clear of hardened minerals from the water. If you have even slightly hard water, you will need to replace them every few years. The heads are inexpensive so it's no worries but it could be partially clogged leading to even less water getting to the tree. I know this has already been said but...please also be advised that the people at Lowe's aren't the best to ask complicated plant questions. Forget about asking anyone at Home Depot for sure.... Finally, whoever said about the guy wires being too tight is absolutely correct. You never want to have them that tight. The tree is likely getting strangled.

When I think about it, this one was difficult to root. I got it as a bonus of 3 cuttings with an order, and only one cutting survived, whereas all of my other "paid for" cuttings survived. Maybe that's why he was giving it away. I'm going to get some perlite tomorrow, because I need it for other things. I'll try that with some rooting hormone. I have four cuttings, so at least one should take, don't you think? I'll buy some fresh rooting hormone, just in case.

Agree-most likely the WP Weevil. The tree will be able to recover...if the weevils can be prevented from re-attacking it in subsequent years. For control, consult your local forestry people, ag extension service, or such. They will know what is working in your area. +oM

Lift the plant from the pot and set the root/soil mass on a stack of newspapers. The papers will act as a wick and pull the excess water from the soil. Monitor the plant's water needs carefully. While the plant doesn't appreciate being left to go completely dry, a very dry soil is less likely to cause problems than a wet soil, so if you must err, err on the dry side. Keep the plant in the light it's accustomed to. Leaves' ability to acclimate to increases and decreases in photo load have limits, and you don't want to risk the plant shedding the foliage it has because you're pushing the limits. At certain times of the year, with healthy plants, there is little concern if leaves cannot tolerate the increased photo load, but a sick plant going into winter MUST retain as much foliage as possible if it's still to be with you come spring. If you're fairly certain the plant is not going to make it through the winter w/o some significant intervention on your part (repotting), you might want to consider that option if you have a soil you can put the plant in that will allow you to water w/o worry the soil will remain soggy so long you're jumping from the pan to the fire. IOW, it doesn't make a lot of sense to change for the sake of change, but it might make sense if you're sure you can improve the plant's lot. Al