Growing Citrus in an Inorganic Substrate
I currently have 11 citrus and 1 fig tree in 5-1-1 mix, but
I’m starting an experiment to see if I can grow a citrus tree in an entirely
inorganic substrate for several reasons: 1) I don’t have the space or want to
deal with mixing more 5-1-1 or gritty mix; and 2) I want to be able to use the
same mix over again when I repot since it’s difficult for me to dispose of the
old mixes.
There are three premixed options I learned about on the
Container Forum. They are Vulkasol, VulkaFlor and Lechuza. I chose Lechuza PON. It’s the most expensive, but it’s the only one available in the U.S.
All my other trees are fed with Jack’s Professional 25-5-15 w/ trace elements. However, Lechuza PON comes coated with a slow-release 15-11-14+2+ME fertilizer. It’s supposed to last for up to 6 months. Will the included fertilizer cause issues since trees shouldn't be fertilized when repotted? Should I add additional fertilizer after a few weeks?
The tree will be placed inside under a 1000w MH light with
the rest of my trees during the fall/winter. I'll post a picture this weekend or early next week after I repot the tree.
Comments (25)
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what kind of soil should I use for citrus in pot?
Comments (26)How coincidental this thread has been revived...I picked up my first bag of "rocks" just this afternoon to try...Professor Al, if you are out there I am not *trash-talking* hehe...My new mix of the month is gonna be Turface MVP, bark and some perlite...will decide on the proportions when I actually run my paws thru the stuff, which is ETA approximately 2 hours from now...I am after NOT having to re-do this cr** for a long-a** time..having a bad day... Anyway, I think you gotta use what you gotta use...I still think that bagged potting soil is not the best thing for you to use in the long run, but your goals and my lazy goals may not be the same....thus I would amend heavily with perlite, which I like a lot. Some people hate it, ok fine; I like pistachio ice cream and some people hate that too, ok fine...However, I don't know where you are, but I can sorta suggest a brand of potting mix that I've seen hold up rather well for maybe a year or two: Last year my sister switched her pot-grown tomatoes (she is one of those people who can grow anything, anywhere without any trouble or thought) to a brand called Bandini that I actually liked b/c it isn't dirt and compost--it is mostly redwood bark fines/soil conditioner; she bought it at Home Depot. Great drainage, she has some filled pots left from last year, dumped it out, and it still is very light. I am starting to see what uses as a medium will be affected a good deal by climate, reference another post where Toni and I have had a little chitchat. I am beginning to hypothesize that perhaps you get quicker breakdown of potting mixes in areas where there is more exposure to the elements and higher average temperatures...yeah I know, that it is prolly obvious to most of you out there in TV land butI never really thought about it for potted plants (I know--->DUH! I think Sir Isaac Newton's apple just bonked me on the head)...which may be why some who do the potted thing in cooler climes may have a little more leeway...or maybe not, I've got no randomized double-blind placebo-controlled studies in the pipeline...which is why I am going largely *inorganic*...I expect my upcoming battles will be delivery of enough moisture and nutrients, espceially the micros...And when I really have my act together I am going with an automated drip system for the containers...but my act may never actually *be* together...Next stop, pending this failure (though I have complete faith in my mentor's advice :), is intermittent flood hydroponics...isn't it Friday yet??! HTH. I'm goin' to happy hour......See MoreHelp! Planting Citrus-Issues
Comments (9)Kquat: If you are in a freeze risky area as I am here is a plan. Here on the Texas Coast we don't fertilize until we expect the end of killing freezing weather, about March 10. With organics you can creep up a couple of weeks cos it needs to break down to become available. You can find local Cooperative Extension info on rates based on years old or trunk diameter. That is usually based on lbs Nitrogen per year. But an old time citrus man told me this which I follow. Take total lbs fertilizer and divide into 2 applications of 60% in March, and 40% in about May or June but not later. If you don't feed them in the second half of the year, they will stop growing in the fall and "harden off" as cold weather approaches. Then they will be good for 25 deg F for sure, maybe a couple more. If there is soft new growth and we get a hard freeze they will get quite a shock. Even the exceptionally cold hardy ones will die back. Then you have a bigger problem of cutting back or not cutting back to get rid of dead ends when your trees should be growing in spring. If you use good methods you will have 4 or 5 ft of growth per year, minimum, with cold hardy trees to boot. Expect them to sit there for a while so they can get their root system established before zooming up....See MoreHow MUCH citrus fertilizer do I feed my container citruses?
Comments (16)Well, I have to amend the showed in my above Foliage pro label. I assumed that "tsp" is tablespoon (15 ml), but I was wrong, it is teaspoon (5 ml). By the way, it gave very logical values. So ppm N are much lower that those I wrote. The right data are (gotten from here): Maintenance (every watering): 1 part FP in 3000 parts water (1 ml for 3 Lts water) (30 ppm N) Production (weekly): 1 part FP in 1500 parts water (1 ml for 1.5 Lts water) (60 ppm N) to 1 part FP in 750 parts water (1 ml for 0.75 Lts water) (120 ppm N). I am currently astonished, because those ppm N are in my opinion very low for citrus growing. It is commonly assumed that an optimum N ratio for each watering for citrus are between 100 to 150 ppm N. Those recommended for Foliage pro are much lower. I have tested at home the EC of a 100 ppm N of Foliage Pro solution and (with tap water) it is 0.89 dS/m. It is a very safe value, much lower than the maximum recommended for citrus (1.70 dS/m). It would be perfectly possible to water with each watering in a FP/water ratio of 1:1000 (90 ppm N), and even we would be below the recommended N ratio for citrus. So here there is something wrong or I am losing anything....See MoreCitrus trees not really growing anymore - what's next?
Comments (14)I'm trying to get a handle on this. You said you'd only grow these in pots, right? But do you want nice foliage plants? Or do you want something that will actually bear fruit? If the latter, I hope you have really, really large pots and a lot of time, because grapefruits can take up to 10 years or more to bear fruit (from seedlings) and in a pot, that plant will likely need to grow upwards of 14 feet before it will bloom. For patio plants that actually bear, I would purchase plants that have been grafted with a known variety OR, have a professional graft the scion stock from your grandmother's plants onto a rootstock. This way, you will have bearing plants in only a few years AND be able to keep those wonderful varieties of your grandmother's....See More
myermike_1micha
7 years ago
User
7 years agomattcolq
7 years agoMike, I purchased a 25L (5.7 gal) container from the website. It was $47 including shipping. It's made of zeolite, pumice, and lava. Al never commented on the thread in the container forum, but here is a link to the thread. And here's a pic.
Vlad, I'm starting with a one gallon Okitsu Satsuma. I'll be potting it in a 5 gallon air pot. I'll be placing a mesh bag inside the air pot first since the substrate is so small. This will likely negate the root-pruning benefits but I think it will increase aeration and reduce the possibility of perched water.
I received the tree on Thursday. It's outside right now with my other trees. It will be transplanted in the new mix tomorrow and I expect to move all my trees inside within two weeks.
They'll be under a 1000W MH bulb. Here's a pic from my trial to see of the fit in my hallway.
I wasn't planning a control but it makes sense. I'll buy another tree and put it in 5-1-1 so I have a comparison.Thanks for the comments,
Matt
Monyet
7 years ago
Laura LaRosa (7b)
7 years ago
poncirusguy6b452xx
7 years agoBob My trees did best in a mixture of 50% dirt dug from my garden mixed with 50% compost. My trees would go 1 to 1.5 months between waterings in the winter and go for a week or 2 in the summer. I draw air through the roots with a vacuum cleaner in the winter. I also use a pot with lots of aeration holes.
This goes under my 30 gallon Cuban Shaddock for the winter. I draw 10 seconds of air daily.
6b Steve
poncirusguy6b452xx
7 years agomattcolq
7 years agoBob, I started this experiment because hauling dirt up three flights of stairs isn't convenient. Dirt is also difficult for me to get rid of since I live in a city. I plan to use Jack's Professional like I do for my other trees.
Cory, Lechuza PON is typically used in their self watering planters. See: http://www.lechuza.us/The-LECHUZA-sub-irrigation-system/erd-bewaesserungs-system.html. The substrate is supposed to act like a wick to transfer water to the plant. However, they say you can grow plants in only the substrate too. I'll start the plant out in an air pot since the substrate will likely hold perched water. But I could switch to a normal self watering pot if I find it's too dry. I'll be watering all my trees individually by hand. I am using my stairwell, but I mistakenly wrote hallway in my earlier post. Here's a pic of the stairwell that I'm getting ready.
I ordered a meiwa kumquat from Harris as my control. I thought about getting another Okitsu, but I don't want two of the same tree. This tree will be placed in a 5 gallon air pot with 5-1-1 mix. It will be in the same conditions as the Okitsu and my other trees.
poncirusguy6b452xx
7 years agomyermike_1micha
7 years agomattcolq
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoMonyet
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoMatt, The Landscapers Store is where i buy Jack's fertilizer( J.R.Peter Most) If you go to J.R. website they will explain how to use it and also describe the formula.
The stuff that I use is Ecoscraps( Walmart) garden soil,oildry,gypsum and some perlite.
mattcolq thanked Monyetteodoraborlean
6 years ago
Sammers510
6 years agoponcirusguy6b452xx
6 years agoI would be cautious on buying any thing from Walmart. Most of there stuff is made in China. I don't like buying things made in China. I scares me that china might be getting rid of its toxic nuclear wastes by putting it in infinitesimally small amounts in the product the sell to the USA.
Yan-An Liu
last yearMisty Kelley
10 months ago
Laura LaRosa (7b)