Growing Citrus in an Inorganic Substrate
8 years ago
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Mature citrus trees not posting
Comments (10)I grow Citrus on straight sand and IâÂÂve learned that you have to adjust your fertilizer applications to accommodate leaching. By the looks of your trees, they need more food, more often. The 10 year old trees should be getting 11lbs of 8-8-8 or 13-13-13 per year, divided into 4 applications of 2.75lbs (2 x 8oz cups is approximately 1lb.) through the growing season. My 1st application goes down March 1 and my last is Sept 1. Increase the rate of fertilizer 1 - 1ý lb of 8-8-8 or 13-13-13 per year through the 12th year or max of 18lbs of fertilizer per year. Broadcast the fertilizer beyond the spread of the limbs where most of the feeder roots occur a good practice is to put your left shoulder near the outer branches and hold the can of fertilizer in your right hand. You can simply walk around the tree and evenly spread the fertilizer in a 12- to 18-inch band on the outer branches of the tree. This is the foundation of your feeding schedule. Supplement to this: i) A small amount of nitrogen fertilizer (ü pound of Ammonium Nitrate or Ammonium Sulfate/year/age of tree or ý pound of Calcium Nitrate/year/age of tree) should be applied to bearing trees (trees 4 years and older) in late May or June. The rate of fertilizer is increased each year until the tree is 12 years old. This helps the tree make adequate vegetative growth and appropriate sized fruit. The additional nitrogen also will encourage the tree to set a crop the following year. ii) A micro-nutrient foliar spray once every 6 weeks. I like Keyplex HG (http://keyplexdirect.3dcartstores.com/KeyPlex-Citrus-HG--32oz-_p_91.html#C3). You can tone it down to 2oz/gallon. iii) An application of WEAK liquid fertilizer (200ppm) in between granular applications. I like JackâÂÂs 25-5-15HP (http://www.jrpeters.com/Products/Jack-s-Professional/Jack-s-Pro/General-Purpose-Formulas/25-5-15-High-Performance.html) As far as pest cpontroll goes, IâÂÂve had luck with: i) Macho 2.0 (http://www.keystonepestsolutions.com/labels/Macho_2.0FL.pdf ) Application: 1/8oz/10oz water, applied to base of tree at start of 2nd flush ii) Kocide 3000 (http://msds.dupont.com/msds/pdfs/EN/PEN_09004a35804ce82d.pdf ) Application: pre bloom, petal fall, & each flush @ the following rate: 5gal 3gal 1gal (tbsp) (tsp) (tsp) 6 9 3 iii) Greenlight Spinosad (http://www.amazon.com/Green-Light-Organic-Control-Spinosad/dp/B000BO8XZO ) Application: 2oz/Gallon H20 + 1Oz Hort Oil as foliar spray every 7 to 14 days after petal fall. This is what works for me in sand. Best, Skinn30a...See Morecitrus in containers, verifiying the proper care
Comments (22)Hello everyone, Still at it.. my trees stayed out all winter and started with a bang first of spring and have now stopped a bit. All have set fruit. My meyer has a lot of big fruit and was using up water fast even with our bay climate . It was still in its original nursery container which drained fast so I decided to pot up. I used a 5;1;1 mix as the gritty mix is just too heavy when you get up in pot sizes. The root ball of the meyer was very tight. I did not want to totally bare root it as I felt it would disturb the fruit and tree too much so I opened it a bit and washed as much old soil off with water and left the rest and hope the roots will move/grow into the new mix. I have had it in only morning sun for a week now and will move it to the sun now. It has shown no signs of shock and looks healthy. I hope I did the right thing. As for potting up I am still confused as to the many citrus I have seen in big pots here and especially in Italy that stay in the same pot for 20+ years. As my trees get big enough to be potted up to the nice terracotta pots they are now nested in I would like to eventually stop. I will keep you posted. Mike...have you had any problems with your FP crystalizing in the jugs? Dave...See MoreHow MUCH citrus fertilizer do I feed my container citruses?
Comments (16)Well, I have to amend the showed in my above Foliage pro label. I assumed that "tsp" is tablespoon (15 ml), but I was wrong, it is teaspoon (5 ml). By the way, it gave very logical values. So ppm N are much lower that those I wrote. The right data are (gotten from here): Maintenance (every watering): 1 part FP in 3000 parts water (1 ml for 3 Lts water) (30 ppm N) Production (weekly): 1 part FP in 1500 parts water (1 ml for 1.5 Lts water) (60 ppm N) to 1 part FP in 750 parts water (1 ml for 0.75 Lts water) (120 ppm N). I am currently astonished, because those ppm N are in my opinion very low for citrus growing. It is commonly assumed that an optimum N ratio for each watering for citrus are between 100 to 150 ppm N. Those recommended for Foliage pro are much lower. I have tested at home the EC of a 100 ppm N of Foliage Pro solution and (with tap water) it is 0.89 dS/m. It is a very safe value, much lower than the maximum recommended for citrus (1.70 dS/m). It would be perfectly possible to water with each watering in a FP/water ratio of 1:1000 (90 ppm N), and even we would be below the recommended N ratio for citrus. So here there is something wrong or I am losing anything....See MoreCitrus trees not really growing anymore - what's next?
Comments (14)I'm trying to get a handle on this. You said you'd only grow these in pots, right? But do you want nice foliage plants? Or do you want something that will actually bear fruit? If the latter, I hope you have really, really large pots and a lot of time, because grapefruits can take up to 10 years or more to bear fruit (from seedlings) and in a pot, that plant will likely need to grow upwards of 14 feet before it will bloom. For patio plants that actually bear, I would purchase plants that have been grafted with a known variety OR, have a professional graft the scion stock from your grandmother's plants onto a rootstock. This way, you will have bearing plants in only a few years AND be able to keep those wonderful varieties of your grandmother's....See MoreRelated Professionals
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Laura LaRosa (7b)