What temperatures and humidity are you maintaining? Calathea like it humid. Dry indoor air -- especially common for those of us in the northern regions over the winter -- is stressful to them. They like it rather warm -- temps in the 70sF or up. Keep the plant away from cool drafts or from furnace/heater vents. Having chilly air or hot dry air blowing on it is not a happy situation. Watering can be an issue. Depending upon where you live, watering may need to be adjusted throughout the year. If you keep your home cooler in winter the allow the plant to get a bit dry (not parched, not bone dry) between waterings. When temps are cooler, the plant slows down (so to speak) and does not need nor make use of as much water. Keeping it too wet at such a point, can result in root rot or even stem death due to bacteria or fungi. In the heat of summer, they can use more water and so can be kept damper. As other have said, avoid direct sunlight -- bright indirect should be good. Keep in mind too, that plants require time to adjust to new conditions. How much time and whether adjusting is even realistically possible depends on how radically different your conditions are from the original growers (not the BBS you may have purchased it from -- the REAL growers ... as in the nursery that supplies the BBS) as well as the type of plant itself (some plants are simply far more delicate than others). Constantly switching conditions as you seem to be doing -- while completely understandable -- can keep the plant in a constant state of stress. Do not fertilize any more for a while! A stressed plant has enough issues to deal with. Fertilizer is not a "magic cure-all". It can actually make the situation worse. What is the plant potted in? The media in which most BBS plants are potted is usually -- to put it mildly -- absolute "crap." Typically the media is heavily or entirely peat based which means that it holds a great deal of water for a long time BUT once it dries out it tends to become hydrophobic (water repellant) meaning that it takes "forever" to remoisten. It is possible to have the outer ends/surfaces moist while the center of mass is completely dry.

My experience in selling our house in Oct 2009 was atypical for our area ( nothing was selling in out area or neighborhood, but I think will relate to your situation. The house was built in 1990. I have not read all of the responses but here goes. We painted the entire house to a neutral walls and white trim because it needed it. We did not paint the brick FP. We removed the wall paper in the FR but left the wainscot and folk wallpaper in the Kitchen and Bfst nook. Realtor had a cow and said house would never sell, but this still looked great. Maybe not HGTV but I was tried of taking wallpaper down... We replaced all of the carpet- bedrooms, finished lower level and FR- with a neutral flat more commercial berber from HD. Because it needed it and looked worn. This was cheap with free install. We had already moved out of the house and the upstairs had no furniture but all the windows all had white wide slat wood blinds. The living room had my Persian area rug and the piano. The dining room had a garage sale round dining table with a floor length canvas drop cloth for the table cloth and four black dining chairs. Oh and an ivy plant in the center. The family room had my old sofa with a white slipcover and my old leather ottoman with a copper tray on it. Oh yeah and two throw pillows. I changed out the kitchen knobs. I spray painted the light fixtures bronze, these were cheap shiny brass. Our house was spotless. Inside and outside and empty except for the mentioned items. The realtor listed it on a Friday night and it was sold by 7pm Sat night to the first people who looked at it Sat am. For asking price. Within 5% of two comps. We became friends with the buyers as we built a house on our adjoining property and they said they chose our house because it was newly painted and had new carpet so they didn't have to do that. They loved the wallpaper in the kitchen but immediately changed out the kitchen knobs. They wanted to buy my "dining set"... This house was under $500.000 and we spent under $3,000 to do the carpet and I did the painting. I will say that if the house was a more expensive and more upscale neighborhood, I would still have emptied and minimally staged. Nobody is buying your décor and even if you have to pack up and put everything into storage and live like Spartans I would do that at least. When we started cleaning it became apparent that the paint and carpet needed to be done. Once a house is emptied unless its newly painted even if clean it still can look grungy IMO. Sometimes people give a painting cash allowance at closing - that might suffice for some buyers. Most of the staging/updating I believe if for a certain price point. You know to help buyers choose between several closely comparable properties. If your home is appealing to a certain demographic because of a higher price then wouldn't those buyers want to pick their own flooring, paint colors fixtures etc?

Hi there! So yes, the soil was staying very wet. But also, the leaves have brown edges that are curling and the dark green is becoming a yellowish green on new leaves. Some of the mature leaves have also changed to yellow. it isn't praying properly, but it remains perky in structure and isn't wilting really. All the leaves are just... dying, it seems. If I removed all damaged leaves, there would probably only be about 5 or so remaining. I planted it in a terra cotta pot with Miracle Gro African Violet soil, so the pot is breathable but the soil mixture is known to retain water. I spray its leaves quite often, group it with other plants, sit it on a grate with a plate of stones underneath, nothing is working. It's near a south facing window that is covered by large trees but still allows in sunlight.

I missed that 'NZ' thing, which would have signaled it's winter and that I should mention plants should be expected to sort of take it easy until some time around the vernal equinox. Whether or not 1/4 strength is appropriate depends on how often you apply it and whether or not you're flushing the soil when you water. This sort of touches on the contrast between the degree of difficulty re getting appropriate nutrition to your plant when you're using a soil that allows you to flush regularly vs one you have to be concerned about because of the extended period of soil saturation that follows a thorough watering. As things warm up, day length increases, and growth rate increases commensurately with the increase in available light, you'll want to increase your fertilizer concentration. In summer, I flush the soil to at least some degree every time I water, and I use about 2.5ml 9-3-6/liter of water. In winter, I use about .3ml/liter. Adding Pro-TeKt 0-0-3 to your supplementation program does change your delivery ratio, but no where near as significantly as you noted. That you are using nutrients with 9-3-6 NPK% doesn't mean you're delivering nutrients at that concentration. You're very significantly diluting the fertilizer with water. If you consider the concentration of 2.5ml of 9-3-6/liter, the actual NPK %s are .0225-.0075-.015. Since the Pro-TeKt 0-0-3 is only 3% K (less actually, when you adjust for the fact that K is reported as the % of K2O, so the K concentration is increased by only only 83% of .0075 or by about .0062% ...... and that's not much, yes? Best advice is get and keep watering under control through close monitoring of moisture levels, at least until you develop a good sense of what's going on in the root zone. Use a skewer, or if the pot lends itself to being hefted as a method of monitoring, that will work, too. Generally, it's much easier to judge by heft if the pot is plastic or another material nearly as light in weight. Al