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Myhrvold turns to the Science of Bread Baking

9 years ago

I beg my fellow GWers to spare us all the usual responses of "It costs WHAT?!?" I know that at least one person here has Myhrvold's previous book on Modernist Cuisine, and wanted to let them know there is another tome coming on bread-baking.

The article is quite interesting but it's from the WSJournal which is subscription only.

(Excerpted)

"...For the past
three years, the former Microsoft chief technology officer has been
working with a group of grain experts on a follow-up to his 2011 cookbook, Modernist Cuisine: The Art and Science of Cooking. A
self-published, 2,438-page, $625 culinary encyclopedia–cum–art object,
Modernist Cuisine was created with the help of a team of international chefs
and was quickly recognized as this century’s most comprehensive analysis of
contemporary gastronomy.

A companion
title, Modernist Cuisine at Home, priced at $140, followed a
year later. Those books and the forthcoming Modernist Bread: The Art and Science, which will also
retail at $625 and is currently available for preorder, are sideline projects
for Myhrvold, 57, an outsize character whose main job conceiving new
technologies might liken him to a Bond villain were his ambitions not so
benevolent.


When Modernist Bread is released next spring, the
five-volume, 2,300-plus-page compendium on grain science will reflect three
years of field research Myhrvold undertook with the goal of upending the
science of bread making and jump-starting an industry that, he feels, rejects
innovation in favor of a rigid devotion to tradition. “Just because you’re an
artisan baker doesn’t mean you need to bake like every other artisan baker,” he
says. “It’s OK to innovate, to make it yours. It’s a really basic concept but
it’s so foreign to the world of bread.” Myhrvold’s research took him around the
globe: He traversed an Arctic archipelago to reach Norway’s Svalbard Global
Seed Vault, the doomsday bunker safeguarding the agricultural biodiversity
essential to mankind’s survival; he toured the Louvre, documenting the
forgotten breads depicted in Renaissance still lifes; he ventured down into the
humid brick tombs under the Paris boulangerie Poilâne, where three generations
have baked their signature pain de campagne since 1932.

According to Myhrvold,
it’s stories like the origin of Poilâne’s wood-fired round loaf that promote
the romanticized fallacies about bread baking that he hopes Modernist Bread will dispel, liberating the next
generation of bakers to do as they please. Rather than emulate Poilâne’s
seasoned practice of wood-fired bread baking, which Myhrvold finds both dated
and, in lesser hands, unreliable, he would recommend that contemporary bakeries
use exacting gas ovens. "

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