Hi. Tobacco varieties that are grown for commercial use are resistant to Tobacco Mosaic Virus. There may be pockets of TMV in some greenhouses that are growing heirloom varieties for their own use (or for decorative plants), but the smoker who uses commercial cigarettes/cigars will not transmit the virus. No problems there. I see some black specks on the leaves in the photo that's 3rd from the bottom. Could there be some pest activity going on there? Your plants look generally healthy. I think most of the problem is attributable to the need for fertilizer. It looks like you are doing a good job with watering too - not too little and not too much. Good on ya. The last photo, of the fruit, looks like blossom end rot. Most of what I've seen indicates that you need to fertilize the plants. With container plants, you need to fertilize regularly with a fast-acting fertilizer that has nutrients that are immediately available to the plant. Most potting soils do not contain nutrients and they don't hold nutrients because they wash out from watering. Get some inexpensive, water soluble, fast-acting fertilizer, such as Peter's or Miracle-Gro or one of the others. Dilute according to package directions for INDOOR plants. This is important. If you make it too strong, like for outdoor plants that are in the ground, it will damage the plants. Feed every 2 or 3 weeks or as suggested by the directions. Slow-acting fertilizers will not be useful to potted tomato plants so don't bother with things like Tomato Tone or bone meal or other amendments that take a long time to break down. They will be washed out before they get a chance to be useful. This should vastly improve the health of the fruit and leaves. Your fruits, with regular fertilizer and watering evenly, will stop getting blossom end rot. It should also help with the leaf issues. I don't see any disease. Maybe a little pest activity but that's easy to resolve with your favorite garden insecticide. Fertilizing is your most important issue. It will make a big difference. Enjoy!

I can't see the photos, will have to check on my own computer tonight. But it does sound like anthracnose. Never thought it could have such severe effects on the tree, mostly it's low level and blemishes the fruit. One of the main commercial remedies is spraying with a copper based fungicide. The spores are everywhere in nature so you're never really without them. But it seems your tree is more susceptible. That could be because it's weak and needs some fetiliser. Or else it might be in a too shady/humid spot and not enough air circulation. Mangos always drop a lot of small fruit. The trees produce masses of flowers and can't maintain the numbers that are fertilised. But there still should be a lot that get through to maturity.

One possibility is it may be Apical Necrosis, which is a bacterial infection. I am not confident from the photos as the black necrotic lesions are meant to start as small angular shapes on the primary and secondary veins of the leaves. I can't really see much of the angularity of the infection in these photos, it seems rather blotchy, but the way it follows the central vein of the leaf to the apex looks like the way it behaves. It is a relatively modern disease for Mango, and likes cool wet conditions such as those found in mediterranean winters. First detected in Southern Spain in the early 1990's I believe, but has now been reported in most mango areas with a similar climate. Being a bacteria, fungicides will not kill it. Copper Oxychloride sprays help to control it. The antibiotic streptomycin is used to control bacterial disease in fruit trees in the US. Here in Australia it is prohibited, so I don't know if it is effective. The causal bacteria is pseudomonas syringae pv.syringae. It spreads with water splatter and wind with rain is very effective. The bacteria itself initially comes down with the rain. It looks like being a problem for climates with cold, wet winters. Anyway, if you hit it with copper as well as mangozeb, then you should get it if it is fungal. If it is bacteria, not so easy.

Thanks guys for all the advice! I really appreciate it. Jay the reason I put those supports on some of the mango trees is because we were getting endless rain in buckets for weeks with really brisk winds. All the new growth was too weak to stand up to the weight of the rain held on the leaves combined with the blowing winds. I gave them some supports since they were hanging downward. Once the branches harden off a bit I will take them down. I think the only one I would consider hard pruning down the road would be the po pyu kalay... and I will take the wait and see how it looks after some new growth when ever that happens and definitely not until springtime as you all have suggested. Simon thanks for the avocado tips. I will try some high phosphorus fertilizer and see if I can get it to flower this next season. It would make me so happy to see avocados on that tree! The seedling mango trees should be an interesting project to see when and if and the type of fruit they may produce down the road. The anticipation is killing me-- In the mean time.... I would rather watch my mango trees grow than watch baseball :) So happy to have forum of friends to share this passion with that understand the fruit tree fever :)