How do I prevent this serial killer from coming back next year?
Lucy Lesser
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
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Corn Smut -- how to prevent it next year
Comments (11)I just harvested about 2lbs of it last night (I was so excited my expreiment actually worked). I took some early smut that had grown on my dent corn and about 3 weeks ago went around and rubbed it on my sweet corn. I went right down a row that had finished tasseling and rubbed it directly into the silks (doing damage on purpose, cuz I was told you need to damage the plant to get it to produce). Then I took some more and rubbed on the stalks & leaf v's (where then ears will eventually come out)of some younger corn. The stuff I harvested last night was from the row of older corn, but it was not on the ears I pollinated it was down very low; about 6" from the ground; where a third ear was forming. These ears were pure smut :). The younger corn I pollinated is just starting to tassle now, still no smut that I can see, but I will be watching. I think the weather has had alot to do with it. During July we only got 1" of rain but since Aug 2 we have gotten about 8.5-9". It has been raining about every other day so nothing has a chance to dry out. I had a great quesadilla last night. Tonight I will be freezing a bunch of it for enjoyment this winter. As far as varieties mine was on Bodaceous, but I have read that Silver Queen is highly succeptible, so next year I will plant a few rows of that just for growing smut....See MoreSerial killers' confessions
Comments (16)I use to always kill spider plants at first, and it would depress me because they're suppose to be one of the easiest house plants to keep alive....I finally got more and this time I've just ignored them...I wait til they're looking kinda sad before I water them, and now they're growing like crazy and looking wonderful!! Now I'm trying orchids, but my moth orchid I got less then a week ago has two yellowing leaves I noticed today...now I'm sad again...but it seems like I'm not the only one with problems in the beginning...so I'll keep on trying...I know I have to eventually get it right. I've also managed to kill string of pearls MANY times, and I got another one 2 months ago, and it's actually thriving, where as before they would be gone in a week or two... Sometimes it so confusing..they die if I don't water, and they die if I do...it's so frustrating sometimes...but I guess it's a learning game with plants... -FlowerPotTipper...See MoreHow Do I Prevent Wilt Next Year?
Comments (11)This year my tomatoes have suffered from wilt. I don't know which wilt for sure -- it's the one with dark brown patches on the lower leaves surrounded by yellow, which eventually causes the leaves to die. **** Peter, you/ve asked about wilt then said that the leaves have dark brown spots. What you're describing is a foliage infection and wilting is not a symptom of those kinds of infections. Hybrids have no disease resistance/tolerance to foliage infections and nor do most OP varieties. Matt's Wild Cherry is what's called a cerasiforme and so I can see it might not come down with those kinds of infections. If plants with foliage infections have shed the bacteria and/or fungi to the soil in a preceding year then splashback infection can occur and mulching can help but not prevent reinfection. Sterilizing the stakes isn't going to help b/c if you've had infected plants in there before the soil already has those pathogens there. And new infections can occur by windborne or rainborne means and you can't do anything about that other than to do what most others do and that's to protect the plants from when you first set them out. Many folks use Ortho Garden Disease Control which is Daconil. Daconil is synthetic but can be applied up to the day of harvest and has a lower toxicity than does Rotenone, which is approved organic by every organic certifying agency that I know of. Daconil is an anti-fungal so you need to know that the foliage infection you have is fungal in nature. If you go to the Tomato Pest and Disease Forum ,link at the top of this first page, look for Problem Solver #2 and then for links to disease sites. The two most common fungal foliage pathogens are Early Blight ( A. solani) and Septoria Leaf Spot. If the foliage infection is bacterial in nature, usually either Bacterial Speck or Bacterial Spot, then you need to consider using a copper containing product such as Kocide or similar. You can also go to Google, select IMAGES and enter the disease to find pictures. Copper containing products have some activity against fungal pathogens but they aren't as effective as Daconil. But you really need to know if you're dealing with a bacterial or fungal foliage pathogen and sometimes both can be present at the same time. Windclimber has suggested using compost tea but from all the feedback I've seen over the last decade or so they aren't known to be very effective. The basis for their use is to compete with the foliage pathogens on the leaf surface, presumably blocking the specific attachment sites where the pathogens bind by competition. If applied to the soil they have no activity in blocking those leaf sites. What Daconil does is to bind to those specific sites and is effective in preventing the fungal folaige pathogens from attaching. Turning over the soil, not just rototilling it, where you grow your tomatoes also helps by burying the pathogens that are on the surface of the soil after bing shed. Hope that helps. Carolyn...See Morethe plants you buy at the florist, can they come back next year?
Comments (5)The answer to that is - it depends. The florist type hydrangeas are often fine in the ground here and some will make the transition to the garden without skipping a beat. Understand though that this is a mild climate, if you live someplace with a harsher winter, hot summers the same might not be true in your zone. Had you thought about adding your gardening zone to your member page so it shows up when you post - might make answering questions easier for us, we would have information more specific to your climate. (Your Houzz, Edit Profile, Advanced Settings, Climate Zone, then click Update to set your preferences) You should know too that the plants grown for the florists trade are not grown with long term plant health in mind....they are rushed along with blooming at a young age the goal. They aren't necessarily inappropriate choices for the garden but may take a year or two to recover from growth regulators, artificial lighting and temps, over fertilization. It sounds as though these would be free plants for you, if you are in the right climate they could be worth your effort, no guarantee though....See MoreLucy Lesser
7 years agoUser
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agogorbelly
7 years ago
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