the Alzak trim kits i've seen have reflective parabolic surfaces that are intended to spread light from a conventional (A19) incandescent light bulb (not a floodlamp-shaped bulb). I've considered using A19 LED light bulbs with these (say the dimmable 600 lumen LED sold at Ikea). They don't look as nice installed as a BR30, PAR30, or CR6, all which give a flat recessed lamp surface to look at, and probably still aren't quite as adept at spreading light. It can be less expensive though, especially when comparing a 4" trim kit and $12 LED bulb with a CR4. I've had mixed luck installing even the new, redesigned (625 lumen) CR6 into 5" cans. They work fine with those that have an actual round can beneath the intended trim kit, which most do. But some insulated-ceiling fixtures just have an open box once the trim kit is removed, and there's nothing for the three clips on the CR6 to hold, nor can the Edison screw mount be placed at a certain height so the CR6 is held by the socket at the right height so the integral CR6 trim ring winds up at ceiling height. The 6" version of these fixtures (which i've never encountered) might work by leaving the trim kits in; the 5" version is too small and the CR6 winds up 3/4" from the ceiling.

air tight trim is a joke in my opinion.I base this on having tested for air leakage with a blower door while sealing these lights & trims. the foam rubber gasket does little to stop the air leakage from exiting the trim. the best way I've found is to use the hardcast 1402 mastic tape to seal housing to the sheetrock. similar to how supply box is sealed in pic of previous posting. tape goes into edge of housing and overlaps to sheetrock. allow 1'2" overlap as trim will cover the tape. this with the ICAT recessed light will stop as much of the air leakage as possible. there will still be a small amount of leakage, but not enough to be of concern. note this when you look at the recessed lights again: Halo's insulation contact air tight lights have two things that identify them. no holes in housing and a orange sticker inside the can that says it is air tight. orange sticker, not red. the red sticker says air tight when used with the following trim kits. deceptive lableling IMO. reading the small print inside IC cans the trim kits include, insert/baffle to fit inside the can to address holes in housing (@$14 each) and air tight trim kit, not sure of cost. as the insert/baffle would be needed at every recessed light, buying ICAT makes better economical sense. installing the baffles is a pita. so add labor for that to cost. buy ICAT, use mastic tape in place of 'air tight' trim. if you are putting IC cans outside under porches patio, unconditioned space this is what happens. as the install of recessed lights is ongoing, the electrician mixes up the boxes. some inside are ICAT, some IC. same outside. make it easy on everyone and buy all ICAT. wasps like IC, but not so much ICAT, less air movement. the cost per contractor case between the two is minimal when you compare to retrofitting each IC to air tight. best of luck.

Hi Lee676, you are so right that it is a waste for the electrician to even give me the Halogen PAR40 in my cans since he left that bulb here to try out over my sink and I dislike how glaring it is and the 2700K color. It looks like a glaring incandescent bulb to me. I did show the new electrician that was here to give me a quote tonight, the print out (from my printer since I looked up the bulb your recommended) of the bulb you recommended and a PAR-30 bulb and he liked your PAR38 bulb and if he gets the job, he will bring me your bulb and a few others including a 3,000K LED 6" one if he can find it for me to see which I like. But I know I will like your bulb since I like 2850K, low glare and easily dimable with the wonderful 1050 lumens as well as being a 55-degree wide flood. Yes, I like the idea of telling the electrician exactly which bulb I want in my cans since I do not want to live with lighting I do not like until I have time to change the bulb. Plus I am short so it is difficult to change bulbs in the ceiling. I can't wait to have better lighting in my kitchen and to get rid of that ugly blinking humming box fluorescent light in the ceiling!

PAR and BR are nonsensical wrt LED light bulbs. All that is referring to is the old-style reflector light bulbs they are to be a direct replacement for. LEDs don't use reflectors. They are direct emitting light sources. PAR is a parabolic reflector light bulb, BR is a hybridized R, or general reflector style which was supposed to emulate PAR without being PAR. It only matters if the light fixture you have was specifically designed to fit one bulb style more efficiently than the other, such as where the face of the the light bulb fits within a recessed fixture, or if the cavity was shaped to fit a certain bulb style, for example. Joe