Thanks hort, I really appreciate the feedback. If it is incompatibility, then the graft seems likely to eventually fail. I had a matte over around the base, with mulch on top to cut off all light to the rootstock hoping that would curtail suckering...... NOPE! Pulled it up yesterday, and there is a full ring around the base of pale white suckers from the RS looking for a way out to the light. I'm seriously considering allowing one of them to grow at this point and taking my chances on getting a female tree. Even if it turns out to be female, other than my two dwarfs, there are NO other Ginkgo ANYWHERE near, so pollination would not be likely. If I did this, I could leave the current graft in place and keep my female significant other counterpart happy, while something more satisfying came up. I know she likes it even though I'm not so happy. I also thought about trying to find a place for another one. On a side note, do you have an opinion as to which cultivar develops yellow fall color the earliest? I'm subject to early and late freezes in my location, and I'm thinking that an earlier turning selection (if I replace this one) might be a wise consideration. Thanks in advance, Arktrees

That lower growth is coming from below the graft. Most citrus are grafted onto the rootstock of the Trifoliate orange (Poncirus trifoliata). You'll need to keep those suckers pruned off as soon as you see them, or they will very quickly take over. It is not unusual for this to occur, and will probably stop after some time. Meanwhile, just keep after them with sharp pruners. That growth will sap the energy from your desirable lemon cultivar.

I'm thinking those "dots" (and darker area in the petal center), are just the natural coloration on the flowers. :-) If your buds are dropping, it could be that they are not getting enough moisture (maybe the air is too dry) or the tree is just naturally thinning itself for various reasons. I noticed that these lemons are so floriforous. They sortof go overboard. LOL I know you are in your fall season and going into winter there, so the cooler temps may help if it is dry. One thing you can try to keep ants at bay is a product called "Tanglefoot" (if they have it there), which is a sticky substance that you can spread on a surface that the ants can't cross without sticking to it. Some people wrap a small piece of cardboard or aluminum foil around the base of the trunk and spread the stuff on. This will help keep the ants off the top. A cheaper solution would be to use petroleum jelly to do the same thing. I think that once you can keep the ants down, then any aphid problem will be reduced. If you think there are ants colonized in the pot, I have seen recommendations to soak the container in a big bucket of water to try to remove the ants (they will bail out). Then you'd have to let the soil dry for a bit. After this, maybe prop the container off the ground and consider putting a piece of hardware cloth (window screen material) or cheese cloth over the drainage holes to keep the ants out. Just some thoughts!

I can only see one graft. Leaving leaves to decay is a really bad idea. Your just encouraging pathogens, insects and ethylene which at the wrong time can encourage pre-harvest fruit drop. To put it into context, where I live a lemon cost 50 cents in the grocery store. For me to grow one lemon it probably cost a hundred dollars a piece with all the time, money and effort spent growing indoors. If your not entirely happy with the graft just buy a new one. Chock it up to experience.