Ouch. No, cracks shouldn't be considered normal, especially this soon. There are cracks and there are cracks; is it right to assume you are not referring to a hairline in the surface? Cracks may be caused by: insufficient base material; base material not or insufficiently compacted before concrete was poured; insufficient depth of concrete; lack of or insufficient reinforcement (rebar or mesh); too heavy vehicles for the design; ground slippage; tree roots; and ocasionally by improper concrete mix or curing. You need to know what's there before you can decide what caused the crack, and how to fix it. The only way to know about the reinforcement is if you were watching while it was put in -- or by smashing a section of the drive. Tree roots are not likely to be a cause this soon. Digging a hole right beside the driveway may tell you the depth of concrete; the depth and base material. Unless there is an obvious mud or soil slide, slippage usually needs an expert to determine. Concrete can be repaired, but the cause of cracking should be determined and corrected first, otherwise it's like putting a bandaid on a wet hand - the patch won't stick. I'd suggest getting the installer out to inspect the damage; he's more likely to know what's going on.

i dunno about your area, but in mine the drive and the garage floor are 2 different pours and purposely have a gap there. for small cracks you can get a concrete patch that comes in a tube like silicon. for larger cracks you get the dry mix concrete patch and fill them. with either you need to clean out the crack as best you can and apply to dry concrete. if there are any chunks or flakes in the crap, remove them. you WILL see these repairs, the patch will never match the old concrete. if you want hidden repairs, patch it then seal the whole thing with asphalt sealer.

Hi, Depends on the number of cracks you have. If alot then use a pro. I had a few and used a product called Latex-ite Pli-Stix. For a 30 foot roll it costs $US 11.50 at Home Depot. You will need a blow torch and a large screw-driver too. The blow torch should have a regulated valve. This is most important because you need to tip the propane tank over at an angle to apply the flame to your driveway. You can also use the "Yellow" MAPP gas for a hotter flame, which is nice but not essential. You clean out the drieveway cracks with a brush. Then make sure the area is dry. You then stuff the pli-Stix into the crack with the large screw driver. This is the most time consuming bit. The Pli-Stix can be made softer and easier to work with by leaving the transparent plastic container out in the sun for say 10 mins. The green house effect heats up the material making it easier to work with. If your crack is small, you may need a pair of scissors to cut the Pli-Stix into smaller diameter bits. Again having the pli-stix warm will make this job alot easier. ALso have a bucket of water nearby. If the stuff gets too sticky dip your hands and scissors into the water. One you have stuffed and filled the crack with the pli-stix you apply the torch flame. The material melts and seals up the crack. This blow-torch bit is actually the easy bit. Just keep the flame moving and you are done. The material melts for a good join. The material remains rubbery and dependent on temperature "soft". This is OK because it will move with the join / crack. I had yet to go through a winter. But so far so good. Other people report good winter chracteristics. I think the only downside is the time required to stuff the cracks with a screwdriver. All the best, Mike. Here is a link that might be useful: Pli Stix

You got a male wild fig,best bet get rid of it,second best:Graft a known common scion on it,if you have the skill,to do it.