thanks for some of the comments above..I've done some additional research on the web, there're company sell pergola with the same size however they use 2 thin 2x6by 16 beam for each side and 2x6 rafters as well. they assure that its structurally sound given they have extra corner post/beam, post/rafter 45 deg support bracket ...still 2x6 seemed flimsy... my revised design to see if it makes sense....use same post of 6", 2 2x8 or even 2x10x16 beam...and 2x8 rafters. Perhaps because one uses 2 beam each side, I would use 2 sets of bolt and nut through holes to hold these on... Any suggestions of using 2x8 or 2x10?, 2x10 seems bulky but don't know if 2x8 would be ok structurally. Thanks, Lad

Axel: Searching best apples Santa Cruz, a bunch of your posts came up. Thanks for sharing your expertise. I went to the Nursery to buy a Gala apple bare root, choosing Gala because there is one growing a few doors away from my yard. My former neighbor gave me some of the apples which were very good, better than store bought. But the man at the nursery said the Pink Lady is a much better apple than the Gala. I asked if it would do well in my area of Santa Cruz, which is in Live Oak by the upper harbor by Capitola Road. He assured me that it would. But when I got home I read the tags; they said that Pink Lady is for hot climates, so I wonder if I should take it back tomorrow and get the Gala or another variety. What do You think? Do You know if Pink Lady will ripen well in my neighborhood? Among store-bought organic apples, I like the Pink Lady the best, then the Braeburn, and the Gala third. It would be nice to grow an apple that keeps well and (optionally) could be eaten raw or cooked. I'd probably prefer a later ripening variety than one that ripens in summer when there are still plenty of other fruits available. It's pretty warm where I live, but probably nothing like the summer heat where you live. Aren't you in Grape-growing country in the SC mountains? Which red or reddish apple would develop the best flavor in my area,on a dwarf or semi-dwarf stock, and ripen for sure? I don't even know for sure what chill requirements mean, but it has gone below freezing maybe 10 times in the last couple months, which is probably a bit more than usual. Any advice you give me will be greatly appreciated. The other trees I'd like to plant are a pineapple guava and a Japanese plum. Both have been observed growing in my area, and both make delicious fruit, although no-one knows what varieties they are. Thank-you, I really enjoy your posts. -Gala (like the apple, I always say)

I went to the UC Davis IPM site to check, and it's like they don't know Pomegranates exist, but here is the link to crops at IPM: http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/crops-agriculture.html For Grapevine Mealybugs: The following materials are listed in order of usefulness in an IPM program, taking into account efficacy and impact on natural enemies and honey bees. When choosing a pesticide, also consider information relating to environmental impact. Not all registered pesticides are listed. Always read label of product being used. SPRING A. IMIDACLOPRID (Admire Pro) 714 fl oz 12 30 MODE OF ACTION GROUP NUMBER1: 4A COMMENTS: Imidacloprid binds readily to soil; when the soil is rewetted and plant roots are actively absorbing water, the insecticide is also absorbed by roots. Best when applied in a drip irrigation system; otherwise, French plow the soil, apply as a ground spray, and immediately irrigate. Apply from 7-14 fl oz/acre in one or two drip irrigation applications. On coarse soils or where the longest period of protection is required, make two applications. Make the first application from bloom through the pea-sized berry stage and the second 21 to 45 days later, keeping in mind the preharvest interval. The full rate of 14 oz/acre is recommended where vigorous vine growth is expected or in warmer growing areas such as the San Joaquin or Sacramento valleys or where mealybug populations are heavy. Do not exceed 0.5 lb a.i. of imidacloprid/acre/year. Adequate soil moisture is important at the time of application; follow label instructions carefully. SUMMER Note: Make applications before mealybugs move into clusters and before bunches in winegrape varieties have closed. A. BUPROFEZIN (Applaud) 70WP 12 oz 12 30 MODE OF ACTION GROUP NUMBER1: 16 COMMENTS: An insect growth regulator. This material targets the early stage nymphs on the vine that are exposed and still moving around before they settle under the bark to feed. Good coverage is essential. Tank mixes are not recommended. Do not apply more than twice per season and allow at least 14 days between application. In regions outside of the North Coast, most effective when applied once in the delayed dormant period and once in early summer (May-June). In the North Coast, the first application of buprofezin is not recommended until late spring or early summer. Buprofezin may be detrimental to the mealybug destroyer (Cryptolaemus montrouzieri) when applied during the summer. Use allowed under a FIFRA 2(ee) Recommendation. B. METHOMYL* (Lannate LV) 0.75Â1.5 qt 7 days Raisin/Table: 1 (Lannate) 90SP 0.5Â1 lb 7 days Wine: 14 MODE OF ACTION GROUP NUMBER1: 1A COMMENTS: Do not feed treated grapes to livestock. Disruptive to predators of mites and parasites of leafhoppers. C. DIMETHOATE 400 2 qt 2 days 28 DIMETHOATE 25WP 6Â8 lb 2 days 28 MODE OF ACTION GROUP NUMBER1: 1B COMMENTS: Moderately disruptive to beneficials. The wettable powder formulation is recommended for table grapes, which are spotted by the emulsifiable concentrate formulation. The emulsifiable formulation, however, is preferred for wine grapes. Use of Dimethoate 400 allowed under a FIFRA 2(ee) Recommendation. ** Apply with enough water to provide complete coverage. + Restricted entry interval (R.E.I.) is the number of hours (unless otherwise noted) from treatment until the treated area can be safely entered without protective clothing. Preharvest interval (P.H.I.) is the number of days from treatment to harvest. In some cases the REI exceeds the PHI. The longer of two intervals is the minimum time that must elapse before harvest. * Permit required from county agricultural commissioner for purchase or use. 1 Rotate chemicals with a different mode-of-action Group number, and do not use products with the same mode-of-action Group number more than twice per season to help prevent the development of resistance. For example, the organophosphates have a Group number of 1B; chemicals with a 1B Group number should be alternated with chemicals that have a Group number other than 1B. Mode of action Group numbers are assigned by IRAC (Insecticide Resistance Action Committee). For additional information, see their Web site at http://www.irac-online.org/.

I'm in Austin and I think I'm having pretty good luck this year. It's been a long time since I've tried to grow anything but cherry tomatoes so I really don't know what to expect. I got interested in heirloom and open pollenated varieties. I'm growing Bradley, Boxcar Willie, Green Zebra and something that I started from the seeds of an heirloom tomatoe I bought at Central Market. This one has a distorted/bi-lobed shape and a dark color. It produces well and tastes good. I didn't take any notes, so I don't remember when I got them in the ground. It must have been late March. I already had fruit on the plants before the hail storm. The plants and some of the fruits were damaged but recovered quickly. I'm having to pick the red fruits the day they start to show color - otherwise the leaf footed bugs or the birds ruin them. I'm letting them rippen inside under a dish towel. Nothings seems to bother the Green Zebras. I guess the color is fooling critters. In fact, they are doing so well I'm thinking about canning some. The color is throwing me off just like it is with the birds and bugs. Canned tomatoes are supposed to be red. I would love to know if anyone has canned green or yellow varieties and if they would do it again?