Forensic analysis uprooting of 50 year old rose bush
B Val
7 years ago
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lucillle
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoBuford_NE_GA_7A
7 years agoRelated Discussions
What is the Highest Number of Roses You've Added in One Year?
Comments (33)I don't think I'll admit to a total number for a given year, but I will say that I bought and planted over 100 full-sized rose bushes from Cliff last year when he sadly had to close down Eurodesert. And these weren't any little band-sized roses, these were each shipped individually in huge boxes, some with with root balls bigger than I could reach around. Often I had to drag those puppies individually around my yard to get them to where they were planted, and this went on all summer as Cliff kept reposting those wonderful and hard-to-find roses. By mid-August, I flopped myself down in the middle of my yard and literally lay on my back moaning in misery from all the planting, vowing I would absolutely not order any more of Cliff's roses, no matter how tempting. I even emailed him to that effect and it worked - I only ordered 8 more after that (smile). In case you're wondering what bank I have to rob to afford these roses, I actually get to budget rose purchases from some extra consulting work I do now and then. My DH and I agree that our main family expenses are covered by our regular salaries, so if I take on extra work, it's "fun money", and what is more fun than roses? It took a couple of consults over the winter to pay for my five (and counting) Vintage orders, trying to hope against hope that they can stay in business, but it's well worth it! It's nice to be among folks who understand that roses = fun! Cynthia...See MoreAnti-fungal nutrients for roses
Comments (140)Hi Sharon: You benefit me & others with your intelligent questions, which enable me to see what I did wrong with my past experiments. How did I cause rust by throwing POWDER GYPSUM on top? I repost the info: There's a U. of Nebraska research on rust, with the title, "Medium pH and Leaf Nutrient Concentration Influence Rust Pustule diameter on leaves of dry beans." Their conclusion: Plants grown in pH 5.8 medium show significantly larger rust pustules than plants grown in pH 6.5 or pH 7.9. Concentrations of Cl (chloride) and Mn (manganese) were more in high rust. In contrast, concentration of K (potassium) were less in high rust." From Straw: Alabama Agriculture Cotton Research also recommended potassium fertilizer to reduce rust. Info. about gypsum from USAgypsum.com: Elemental Calcium......21.0% Elemental Sulfur (S)....17.0% pH...................................6.8 Kelp4Less sells 5 lbs. of GRANULAR GYPSUM at 18% sulfur for $12.50 .... more than my local feed store, or Menards at $4.49 for 25 lb. bag. There's a quarry nearby that manufactures gypsum, so cheap here in my Chicagoland. I WOULD NOT use Pennington gypsum plus lawn fertilizer, if it's chemical nitrogen (high in salt). What I did wrong was to throw 1 cup of POWDER-gypsum on top ... it's acidic, plus fast release of calcium, which drove down potassium, necessary for rust-prevention. Previous times with 1/8 cup of GRANULAR gypsum, along with sulfate of potash ... no problems whatsoever. I would use even less GRANULAR gypsum, like 1 teaspoon, along with 1 teaspoon sulfate of potash, plus 0.2 cup of Milorganite. The best ratio for veggies is 1 part nitrogen, 1 part potassium, and 1/2 part calcium. Roses have a higher need for calcium, so I use equal amount to potassium. Sulfate of potash NPK is 0-0-50, and Milorganite NPK is 5-2-0. Take 50 divide by 5, you'll get 10. Ten teaspoons of Milorganite is equivalent to 0.2 cup, best with 1 teas. of sulfate of potash, and 1 teas. of gypsum. I would use more sulfate of potash & gypsum with pale own-root like Jude which needs more potassium for blooming, plus more sulfur for leaves to be darker-green. PALE own-root like Duchess de Rohan, W.S. 2000, Jude, Eglantyne, Honey Bouquet, Comte de Chambord can take more gypsum at 17% sulfur, and more sulfate of potash at 23% sulfur. DARK green roses grafted on Dr. Huey, and French roses dislike acidic sulfates. Bone meal has high sulfate at 2000 ppm, and 400 iron & 300 sodium, with the dark-green roses break out in diseases. I put too much bone meal in Gruss an Teplitz hole ... he's the parent of Dr. Huey, it became a BS-fest, and I had to fix the hole. Pennington fish pellets NPK 4-6-6, high phosphorus with fish bone meal. The pale & lighter-green roses LOVE that tea, today tiny Jude broke out in 2nd flush, 3 more buds with that tea, very fast repeat. Austin roses, bred in an acidic & high rain England like that ratio ... The ratio in David Austin Rose food has NPK 9.5 - 7.5 -10 ... a bit higher nitrogen due to high-rain England, which leaches out nitrogen. Acidic sulfates help pale-own-root to bloom better, but sulfates also burns if in direct-contact with roots, best as SOLUBLE. Pennington pellets is best as SOLUBLE tea under hot sun, to spoon-feed wimpy own-roots which can't acid-phosphatase as band-size. Bone meal is OK for pale own-root the planting hole, if mixed-thoroughly and buffered by plenty of soil. Bone meal burns if applied on top. Concentrated amount of sulfates near the stem burn. One person killed his tomato plant by topping with Jobe's Organic tomato fertilizer NPK 2-7-4, high in bone meal. When I mixed that stuff THOROUGHLY in the planting hole, I got bumper-crop tomato. Same with gypsum, at 17% sulfur, and sulfate of potash, at 23% sulfur. Both burns my finger, and burns any root, best used as soluble. If I sprinkle some on top, I flood the basin immediately with water, to dilute that, along with milorganite for nitrogen. Tomato Tone has NPK 3-4-6, neutral pH & less phosphorus ... it didn't burn my tomato plant, so that can be applied at 1/4 cup before a rain. It's finer particle & tend to float, best to let rain work that in. Milorganite is best 0.2 cup with 1 teas. sulfate of potash and 1 teas. of granular gypsum .... spread that on top before a rain, if you are lazy like me. Safe approach would be Milorganite on top, then make soluble out of potassium & calcium per gallon of water. Roses are all different from each other, the pale ones require more sulfates, potassium, and phosphorus via SOLUBLE to bloom. The darker-green leaves like Dr. Huey can secret acids to utilize nutrients from soil, thus breaking out in diseases when too much acid is supplied, like rain-water (pH 5.6 in East coast), or sulfates in bone meal, gypsum, and sulfate of potash .. which are components of Pennington Pellets. Sharon, best wishes with your roses. They all are different from each other ... such as pale Graham Thomas which required an ungodly amount of potassium & phosphorus as soluble to bloom for a Texan. It took me 3 years, and countless failed experiments to learn the above. This post was edited by Strawberryhill on Sun, Jul 20, 14 at 11:19...See MoreBush beauty & fast repeat & heat and drought tolerant?
Comments (45)Re-check what Frank Gatto, the owner of rose-nursery advised for his high-rain acidic PNW location, and HE LIMED ONLY IN MARCH, and no more afterwards !! I checked on liming and lime DOES BURN in hot weather, and cause wilting & scorching of leaves from its extreme alkalinity (pH over 10). Roses Unlimited formula for planting hole is a bit complicated, so I post a simple formula below (I also mix in 2 cups of alfalfa meal for growth-hormone). Frank Gatto's roses are grafted on Dr.Huey (prefers alkaline), so he's heavy on liming! I would use less lime (1/2 cup) for large & years-old established rose in high-rain climate. Farmers routinely use lime with nitrogen in spring time since lime boosts nitrogen uptake. https://goodlifenw.blogspot.com/2012/07/seven-essentials-to-growing-healthy.html "SOIL — For planting, Gatto mixes 50 percent native soil and 50 percent organic compost or potting soil and adds a cup each of bone meal and Garden Lime per bush. He also gives established plants a cup of lime in March, for optimal soil pH." I translate this to 1/2 potting soil and 1/2 my clay (on top), also mix in 2 cups of alfalfa meal plus 1 cup Plant-Tone (has bone meal), and 1/4 cup lime to neutralize the acidity of 2 cups of alfalfa meal (or 2 TBS of lime to neutralize the acidity of 1 cup of alfalfa meal). For LARGE established rose (grafted on Dr.Huey), Dr.Huey rootstock prefers alkaline pH, versus own-root prefer neutral pH, versus multiflora-rootstock prefers slightly acidic: "Gatto advises giving roses small but frequent meals, as opposed to large amounts of fertilizer less often. He uses a balanced granular fertilizer with an N-P-K number no higher than 20 (such as 15-15-15), along with a blend of organic meals including alfalfa, cotton seed, fish, blood and kelp. "I give each one a handful (about a half a cup) every three weeks." Water thoroughly after feeding." So he uses 1/2 cup of chemical fertilizer 10-10-10, plus 1/2 cup of organics like Espoma Tone per LARGE bush (3' x 2') every 3 weeks for grafted-on-Dr.Huey (heavy feeder). Big-fat-foot-long-Dr.Huey-rootstock needs heavy fertilizer, but for tiny own-roots, I skip chemical fertilizer altogether and use only 1/4 cup organics every 2 weeks. Since pots leach out nitrogen more, I use 1 TBS. Osmocote per month, plus 1/4 cup organics (Lilly Miller) every 2 weeks per pot. There is 6% sulfur per 1/4 cup of Osmocote PLUS NPK 15-9-12 (applied every 6 months per 2 gallon pot or 4 square feet, per label instruction). Sulfur is for growth & dark-green leaves, but Osmocote PLUS DOES NOT HAVE calcium. Since we have heavy rain in spring, plus heavy rain in fall. I limit liming to early spring, or late fall with cool weather. Lime does burn, so best in cold & week-long rain. Below is the Squire (older Austin rose), which has bush beauty (nice color), plus heat & drought tolerance (very thorny). Blooms have zillion petals, so the repeat is slow. The Squire with dark-green leaves prefer alkaline so does well with liming. I also give it potassium to prevent blackspot after blooming. Potassium should be twice more than calcium per rose-tissue-analysis:...See MoreThe Rose Doctor: Diagnosing Rose Problems (Thx Straw)
Comments (328)The leaves are coming back thanks to you, straw! I put down some langbeinite a week or so ago because the new growth was so light colored. All the old burnt leaves fell off and the light colored leaves in the new growth are starting to green up again. There’s only one new cane coming up from the graft and it’s a cross cane but I’ll take it. This is despite a very slow start (more like no start) after I planted in spring, me withholding fertilizer the last month and a half due to the chilli thrips breakout in my yard, and the weekly sprays with spinosad and neem/soap. It wants to grow. Hoping next year is better and it gets a strong start a lot earlier in the year, but for the time being I’m just grateful I got this bloom!...See MoreB Val
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7 years agolast modified: 7 years ago
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