Here in Europe 95 percent of all roses sold are grafted plants. Probably 99 percent in this country are grafted on multiflora rootstock. I have never had one of my roses grafted on multiflora rootstock, make multiflora suckers!!! I have only seen it happen to 2 roses among the tens of thousands of roses I have seen. Perhaps Louise Odier is one of these roses that do equally well own root as grafted? It is my observation that own root roses in general takes longer time to get established, but once established they are just as good as grafted roses, sometimes even better depending on the cultivar. The discussions about own root vs grafted roses basically comes down to whether a rose grow well own root or better as grafted plants. My Louise Odier roses (grafted plants) grow so well!!!! Both as climber (on a wall support) picture taken in spring so you can see how I trained the canes. It has gotten HUGE during this summer and needs training before winter comes. It will bloom spectacularly next summer. And kept rather low (4 feet high and 3 feet wide) by hard pruning : Louise Odier as low climber in a sheltered spot to the right of door. Louise Odier grown as rather low shrub/bush:

Hi Saki Glad these comments were helpful, and we're always eager to help a beginning rose grower feel confident with their roses. The photo you posted is a lovely and very mature specimen of what looks like two or maybe even 3 climbing roses all splayed out horizontally along the fence. You can see one "fan" of canes spreading out from just right of center and another fan spreading from the left 1/3 of the photo. I can't tell if the cane stretching straight up in the center is part of a third plant with a few lateral canes or not. This effect is definitely a great thing to strive for, but I'd be totally depressed if I tried to get all my climbers to look like this, since not all climbers put out as many primary canes coming straight out of the soil as this one does. I'll show you two contrasting climbers for example. Colette looks the most like the photo above with several canes coming straight out of the soil that I'm encouraging sideways on my fence. Do remember that climbing roses have to be secured in some way to the fence - they won't climb on their own like clematis or other vines will. Mine is probably 3 years old, and you can see that it has three main canes out of the soil (I usually call them primary canes in a climber, but they come out of the base and I presume the terms are the same thing). Mine is own-root so there isn't a graft from which these canes split off, but if I'd buried my graft the 2-4" that is recommended in cold zones, it would look a lot like this too. Now, the reason you distinguish between primary canes and laterals in a climber, is that your blooms aren't mostly going to be directly on those primary canes that you bend sideways. Even in a young climber like this, you can see that the blooms are in smaller off-shoot canes that branch off vertically from these horizontal main canes - we call these lateral canes. The main/primary canes are toward the bottom of the fence, but the blooming laterals stretch up a good 2-3' higher than the primary canes. The more horizontal you can stretch your canes, the more likely the rose will put out laterals all the way along the length of those primary canes. That means you can have a fence full of blooms from only a few primary canes, even if the rose puts out a limited "fan" of canes. As Colette ages, she might put out more base canes, but I doubt I'd get the rich "forest" of canes in the photo above even when she's mature - particularly in any climbers that lose cane over the winter. Still, I'm confident she'll fill this part of the fence in another 2 years or so. Here's another rose that for me grows in a somewhat different habit. I've only seen one primary cane off the base of my Lunar Mist, and it's more like 4-5 years old. I bend it sideways in the same way as I do the Colette above, and it sends up laterals all along the length. Same principles of laterals and primary canes as above, it's just that the base of the rose is at one end of the array and the blooms arch off to one side off the primary cane that I've bent sideways. You can't quite see the base of Lunar Mist here, but it's off to the right and below the picture here, below where the clematis is. My New Dawn never got mature in the poor location under my oak tree, and we'll see what the new grafted version wants to do now, but at the moment it just has one big cane that I've stretched sideways like the Lunar Mist above. Climbers are very different when young vs. when mature, though, so you have to be patient with them. It usually takes at least 4-5 years before a climber has built up enough root structure to support a robust blooming rose, and not all of them will build this kind of fan structure very widely. Some will be more of a "rainbow" like my Lunar Mist. Regardless, the principle is the same and we encourage more growth of canes from the base in climbers as we do in any rose, with adequate water, maybe some alfalfa to encourage basal breaks, and patience, patience, patience. The rose will "tell" you what it wants to do over time. Just be sure to bend the young canes sideways when it's young, as robust climbers like New Dawn can get pretty stiff and woody in their primary canes over time, and they're much harder to bend. Hope that helps. Cynthia

I grow both Elina and New Dawn as own root plants. I am an own root enthusiast, so I don't grow roses that have to be grafted to grow well. New Dawn is so vigorous as an own root plant, I don't think that there would be any reason to graft it. Elina grows well on its own roots in my climate making a bushy shrub of about 3'. It blooms very well with good bloom count and good repeat..

Princess, you are so sweet! The roses are called Johann Strauss. I mail ordered them in the spring time, which is what you will probably have to do to get what you want. I planted them 18 inches apart on center, with the graft at least 4 inches under the dirt line. I added compost to the soil at that time and mixed it in. Then after I watered them well, let that drain in, I watered them again. Then I got a drip hose that meanererd through the roses and water them once a week for about 8 hours. I put pine bark mulch on top of the dirt, which I can do because I don't get diseases here... it may be different in your area. I feed them with Osmocote for flowers 1/4 cup for each rose every year in March and make sure it goes through the mulch down to the soil. You don't have to have drip irrigation to get roses like this. It just makes it easier if you do. If not, water well once or twice a week depending on the weather. Water more in high heat. Check with your local rose society for areas that sell roses. I know there is a place in Canada called Palentine that a lot of people on rose forum purchase roses from. And by the way, that row of roses contains both grafted and own-root roses. I love them all! Sadly, Johann Strauss is not widely available anymore. Northland Rosarium used to carry it and may again if enough people would request it. Johann Strauss winter kills to the ground every year here, but comes back strong to do what you see three times a season. Pretty remarkable for a rose in zone 4. Here is a link for Palantine roses. https://palatineroses.com/roses Scroll down and you will find some beautiful roses. I hope you find the roses you are looking for and enjoy them all!! Rebecca