bencelest, Nice picture; you can definitely see where one tree begins and the other ends. mckh, I am glad you asked since I just saw your other post and it looks like you may have some rootstock sucker growth on one tree, though I can't say for sure. I have read that you want to remove rootstock growth since it takes away vigor from the grafted portion that you want to grow. I don't think it will make any fruit you get from the grafted portion inedible (though it may not be the best since it has to compete for nutrients, water, etc), but the rootstock may produce it's own fruit, which I'd guess is mostly not so tasty. My parents had a tree when I was a kid that got taken over by rootstock--nasty fruit. I can only describe what I have seen here in CA, but the average citrus graft line looks like a little knob on your tree's trunk anywhere from 2 inches or so to a foot or so off the ground (usually 6-8 in); it often looks like a change of angle in the growth and sometimes there is a change in texture of the bark that the above picture dmeonstrates so clearly. I usually see a diagonal line in the bark, but I'd guess all of this differs depending on techniques used...Sometimes the graft line is hard to see, but usually not. If you look up Four Winds Growers, they have some pictures posted on their web site of what a graft line looks like too--you'll have to look around a bit on their website, but it's there somewhere. HTH.

Theresa- I thought that was a walkmaker path. I got the brick walkmaker stamps for the areas between my raised beds in my veggie garden. I'll probably get the stone one this year as I really like the look of a bed (esp. a cottage garden) that spills out onto the path. That hardscape element seems to give a sense of order to otherwise wonderfully chaotic cottage gardens. I haven't finished my project yet but I have a couple tips for anyone wanting to do something like this. First, put down weed barrier fabric between the ground surface and the rock substrate. Secondly, don't buy the concrete colorant they sell for it at the big box stores. If you look up concrete suppliers in your phone book, you'll find a few places where you can buy the integral color as well as a release agent in a different color so it gives it more depth and realism. It is also less expensive to buy it in bulk than the colorant from Home Depot and comes in many, many more choices.

Hi Luvstogarden! Sometimes this board is hopping with activity, sometimes rather slow. I grew up, went to college and worked and lived in MI for years, matter of fact, I used to be a Michigan Master Gardener. Two years ago I moved to Colorado. Same planting zone, but SO different due to altitude and arid conditions. I still like to lurk in the Midwest forums, and MI and Ohio being neighbors, and the Columbine (my new state's State Flower) really caught my eye. I so miss fertile soil and an abundance of fresh water! Anyway, here is some advice for your questions. It is best to move and divide bulbs about six weeks after blooming. Just pull them up, separate the 'bulbettes,' rinse them well with water, let them dry, and simply store them in a dry place until the fall. You can then replant them. Keep in mind that the size of the plant you will get from the bulb will be determined by the size of bulb you plant. If the bulb is small, the plant will be on the small size, but in time will grow and become grand. Don't be afraid if six weeks after the bloom fades the leaves are still green. As long as about 1/2 inch of the tip of the leaf has turned brown, the bulb has taken in all the nutrients it needs to grow again next year. Some people will say that you need for the leaves to completely die back, but this is scientifically not true. 1/2 inch of die back is all you need. Something I like to do is cut the green leaves of the bulbs to about 2 inches above ground level after the blooms are gone. As the growing season progresses, you can 'pull' the remaining leaves by simply twisting them and they will pop right off. Lets face it, dying back bulb leaves are unsightly! For the Iris', wait again until at least 1/2 inch of the leaves after blooming, turn brown and dry. You will have can then divide the rhizome, if necessary, and re-plant to a new location. Google how to divide Iris, you will find many videos which will guide you through the process. For the Columbine, you will have to move it, again, about six weeks after blooming. Columbines do not like to have their roots disturbed, so you will have to dig/lift as much soil as you can when moving. Take a hand shovel and determine where you can no longer hear the roots rippling, and dig down at least a foot. Take the whole huge clump and drop it in a prepared hole in another location.

did you see the wondeful colored mason jars ??? I love the purple one. I will have to go back and look at the recipes. I thought her son's comment was so funny.." you brought us here to die ! ". c