I got some experimenting and inspecting done today and none seemed favorable IMO. The good part is a 220V receptacle (for a backup AC) is arms reach from the 110V with 12 or 10 ga wire. A 110V could be placed on the Ext Back-To-Back off the 220V. Running the splitter on 220V would be better (from what I saw amp wise) except it's not always handy at that location. Observations:(1HP Farm Duty Motor showned at Northern Tools) 1. The amp meter showed the motor drawing about 9 amps turning just the pump w/o a load. 2. The amp meter showed the motor drawang about 18 amps or just below splitting a 12" dia log. 3. The motor is sealed. How is a fan helping a sealed motor? My guess is like a sealed body. 4. Dose the 2 draws sound about normal? How does this work under a load if it is rated 13.2/6.6? Is this marginal if monitored since I just noticed in 3 yrs the heat issue "working in heat" ? 5. Should I consider a heavier wired receptacle for the splitters avg 10, 2 hr jobs per season? Thanks In Advance!

Only the light switch needs to be at both locations and frankly, unless you have some goofy local code or this is a stairway, there's no requirement for even light switches at both entrances to a room. Almost every fan I've seen can have the motor and the light controls split and you can put the latter on a three-way if you like. The reason the instructions don't tell you to put the surge suppressor on an oversized breaker is because there's no point in doing so and it is ILLEGAL. Do not use a large breaker than the ampacity of the wiring connecting it. Most of the ones I've seen you do not put on a larger than 20A breaker. Having lost phones and del modems and a well pump, I believe on putting surge/lighting protection on everything I can find. These suppressors are cheap "insurance". Yes, there is very MUCH a limit on the number of wires in a given box. It's called Box Fill and a bigger discussion than I can type into this box. Get a good electrical book (Wiring Simplified is one) or google box fill. You protect the feeder from the main panel to the sub panel with a breaker appropriate for the wire. It matters NOT what the rating of the sub panel is. #2 is appropriate for 100A breaker on copper type NM, You can protect #6 with a 60A breaker for type NM. Other wire types may have different ampacities. Your heaters are NOT in series. Again you need to size the breaker for the wire. You must protect 12-2 NM with a 20A breaker (or smaller). I'm assuming we're talking about 240 V heaters? If not you're math is way off. If you're using 240, the 20A breaker and 12-2 is fine. Most home center employees including this one is a complete idiot and dangerous. NO, YOU CAN NOT put breakers into a panel for which it is NOT listed for. Yes they may fit and may even work, but it is ILLEGAL. Do NOT do it. Schneider is commonly Square D by the way (just like Eaton is Cutler Hammer). A QO breaker won't even fit in your Siemens panel. The HOM breakers might fit, but again, are illegal to use.

Our Minka Aire Concept II 44" fan was installed this week, just in time for our first serious heat wave of the summer. It was 100 degrees yesterday and 83 upstairs at bedtime, a perfect night to sleep in the guest room and try out that baby. I put it on high for about half an hour while I read. It cooled me down instantly, but I didn't want to sleep with it on high because it makes a little wind noise, but less than a table fan. I switched it to whisper-quiet medium for the night. I never felt hot once. Thanks to all the great help on this thread, I got a great fan and a comfortable guest room for summer visitors!

So, an update: we decided to skip the ceiling fans after all. The only ones we liked were about $450 a piece, plus installation, and we'd need at least three. And we'd probably only use them about 15 days a year in this climate. So we're going to get a couple of nice stand fans instead. OTOH...we did wind up with can lights on a dimmer switch. Sigh.