We were very limited as to the depth of the vanity for our guest bathroom, very limited. The original sink in the room (a tiny, wall-hung sink) was only 17" f to b. We found the Sonia vanity that ours is modeled after, in the showroom where we got all of our bathroom fixtures. It is only ~18.5" deep. The Sonia (Europa?) vanities are expensive, so we had a local guy custom build our vanities. Not only did it save us a lot of $, but we were able to modify the vanities somewhat, to better serve our needs. For ex., the Sonia vanities are only 31" tall I believe, and ours, with the sinktops, are 36" tall. This allowed us to make the drawers taller, which means we can store more stuff in them. We liked the vanity so much, we opted to have the guy make the same style vanities in the smaller width for the other two bathrooms. We did not have to notch any door trim, nor did we have to notch any portion of the cabinet. The base molding in the room was installed so one piece runs from the door trim to the vanity leg, and another piece runs from the other side of the leg, up to the back vanity leg. The guest bathroom vanity is 31.5" wide, and the other two bathroom vanities are 24" wide. I think there are very similar vanities from Ronbow (?) that might cost less??

If it helps at all, we've just been through the exercise of figuring out how to do the plumbing to maximize storage space in a custom vanity. For a double vanity, you have two options: 1) use a drain-joining kit (slip-joint, easily available at big box stores in either a center or one-side outlet. So depending on the dresser drawer/door layout you could choose which makes more sense. Behind that one place, you'd lose about 10" down for the single trap needed for the two sinks using this set-up. 2) -this is what we did- come off the sink drain with a 90 degree straight back towards the wall. Touch-drains, like you use on vessel sinks, have the tightest clearance since they do not have the whole drain-rod apparatus. we used semi-recessed sinks to save even more space, they sit 2.5 inches above the counter and recess some below it. Anyway, the drains go back toward the wall and then we've spec'd our drawers to be cut to allow a 4" gap between the wall and drawer back, in which we run the two traps to the drain stub out. You could have a dresser's drawers cut short if they're too deep, but it would cost. Hope this helps!

This is my personal opinion - I think it would be awful - its likely to feel way more cramped than your existing layout. The dishwasher, range and refrigerator doors can hit each other. In your drawing, you show the proper depth for a counterdepth ref, but ranges are 27" - 28" deep and their doors generally need to stay in front of the cabinet line - you ain't countersinking it into the island - it would void your warranty right there - aside from driving a blding inspector insane. So - you know that 30" aisle - it goes down to about 22" right in front of the ref and range. Do you know how far out a cabinet drawer comes these days? 21-23" depending the mfg - not including the handles. Do you know how big a tall tub dishwasher door is? 28" How far a range door sticks out? From 16" to 21" from the already extended depth. How much front clearance does the freezer door/drawer need? How the heck will you get the ref or range into place? Or take them out for service or replacement. Plus, now you have the chance to knock pots off the range if you make even a small mistake on the other side of the island. Plus, plus YOU END UP WITH LESS PREP SPACE because you moved the ref and the range. Personally, I would put the sink/ref/dish storage/micro on one side wall and the range on the other. I would shorten and narrow the existing island (maybe 30 x 51 finished counter) to allow for better clearances, but also better access from one side to the other. I would think about pushing it all the way over to the window (more like an ungrounded peninsula).

If you want it to fill the entire space, don't try to buy the cabinet and countertop at the same time, since filling space next to a wood cabinet is a lot easier than trying to fill in space next to a countertop. You could buy a standard length vanity cabinet (without countertop), and use filler strips to take up the space on either side. This is a very common solution when you fit standard sized cabinets, and the manufacturer may even have strips available. Then get an estimate for a custom-fabricated countertop that covers the entire 64" space, and places the sink in the right location for the vanity cabinet. If you are on a real tight budget, a low end fabricated countertop could be pressed-board with a laminate top, or you could move up a little in price and use cultured marble or another manufactured material. It won't be really cheap, but should be reasonably priced. Bruce