Killing stumps with glyphosate

7 years ago

I've read many of you use concentrated glyphosate to kill tree stumps.

So, what concentration should I look for?

I assume I apply to the exposed cambium area around the stump? For an old stump that keeps sprouting, would I need to make a "fresh" cut?

Featured Answer

davidrt28 (zone 7)

7 years ago

last modified: 7 years ago

"Be careful with triclopyr, it has the potential to damage adjacent plants (via soil uptake)."

Good point. Or if you use enough of the ester form in certain kinds of weather, via vaporization. (or in some cases, even enough of the amine. But it is safer in this regard than the ester)

"triclopyr is more effective on woodies than is glyphosate."

I don't think as a blanket statement, that's entirely true. It could be partly true.

Triclopyr seems to kill faster leading people to believe it's better. It might have a little more penetration power in certain cases but you could certainly overcome that with how you formulate the mix. I have killed large poison ivy vines with _either_ glyphosate, 3 way, OR triclopyr. So depending on the approach you take with the stump/shoots/etc. glyphosate will work just as well and be cheaper on a per unit product basis. For my preferred "cut, drill and fill" method, glyphosate + surfactant always works. For the treatment of Ailanthus, specifically, yes some "academic"/"technical" sources do claim triclopyr is better than glyphosate, but right here we've had people report generic roundup worked for large scale Ailanthus control. If I had one or two Ailanthus, I'd just use glyphosate if that was the cheapest to buy, which it probably is in the required concentration. For a large number, yes I would go with the proven technique of tcp ester in a non-polar carrier. I am almost sure the prevention of suckers has more to do with the technique than the plant killing chemical used. (See other posts Shaxhome and I made: http://forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/1649416/how-to-kill-ailanthus-aka-tree-of-heaven)

Ultimately, it probably is true that both triclopyr and imazapyr have more raw plant killing power than glyphosate, but they also have more attendant risks. Especially the latter. But glyphosate has plenty of activity if you apply it correctly, as Shaxhome's experience showed!

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (8)

davidrt28 (zone 7)
7 years ago
at least 20%

"For an old stump that keeps sprouting, would I need to make a "fresh" cut?"

directly treat the sprouts, it would be tedious at that point to actually find where the living cambium is
Jean
7 years ago
triclopyr is more effective on woodies than is glyphosate.
Related Discussions
Killing 3' privet with a 1' drill?
Q
Comments (20)
Ahh, Musicalperson, I mean Iforgotitsonevermind, or is it gardningrandma, no Monsanto'sCompetionSpy, is here to make the same old unfounded excuses as to why glyphosate is from the evil depths of hades. It's amazing that will all that effort, she still hasn't come up with one valid reason not to use the stuff (except that she has some bizarre personal hatred for it). Strange, cause she had enough imagination to come up with all those different screennames. If you can't afford $29.99 for a bottle of RoundUp, get the generic glyphosate which will work just as good and is cheaper. Of course everyone could probably justify that small price to get rid of a stump and kill all the grass and weeds that pop up in those cracks in the driveway for the next year (which triclopyr won't do). Triclopyr is no more effective at killing most stumps as glyphosate, and in some cases is less effective. Lastly, it takes no more time to apply glyphosate than it does triclopyr. Just a couple of minutes for each, and then you never have to worry about the stump again. Oh, and don't spray triclopyr or glyphosate in your rivers and streams. Anyway, use either glyphosate or triclopyr, but if you do use triclopyr, wait at least a month or so before replanting in that spot, if you get the chemical in your soil.
...See More
Oleander - stumps; and what kills other vegetation
Q
Comments (1)
To kill oleanders - and I took out a historic district hedge with clumped trunks a foot or more across - have them cut off at ground level and the stumps ground. They MIGHT resprout, but the tender new shoots are susceptible to glyphosate. Just spray any you see, as soon as you see them. I think the effect on other plants is because they cast dense shade, and their root systems effectively monopolize the water. And the leaves are thick enough to act as weed-preventive. I get some weeds growing under the oleanders where it's sunny, have a Lady Banks' Rose growing next to the oleanders (talk about a battle of the titans), and I've seen hedges with lawn running up to the base of the plants, so there is probably no toxin being given off.
...See More
Best way to kill the stump of holly berry
Q
Comments (14)
Oh mi gosh you guys are scaring me! Dynamite, kudzu and holly evil spirits. I mean damn! I let me holly live and it's a nice ass bush I gotta say I love the sexy foliage and it even keeps the neighboors kids out of the garden with it's spiky leaves. G- Girl, I know what you look like and that you are self proclaimed "old"... Lay off it! Your a darn sexy spirit and that's what I was getting at. The older people get the more pretty or ugly they can become. And with cosmetics and vanity it can be just the vice versa. People are so screwed up today all I was saying is you and most people who garden are in touch with the earth which makes them HOT to me! Hot, sexy, beautiful.... all interchangable and nothing to do with looks Okokok, when they are planted everywhere, that sucks. What are people thinking anyways. I mean plant something productive for crying out loud. FOrtunately( AND UNFORTUNATELY) most meathods to erradicate them have been listed. I'm not a propagandist of explosives and herbicides or chemicals so I suggest you use hard work if you can.
...See More
Best way to kill a cedar tree stump?
Q
Comments (5)
I kill cedar (mountain ashe Juniper) ALL the time. IT will die if you cut below the lowest growing branch if it is Mountain Ashe Juniper or eastern Red Cedar. If it is Red Berry juniper, you need poison. It sprouts from the base and is more difficult. Killing cedar
...See More
arbordave (SE MI)
7 years ago
Be careful with triclopyr, it has the potential to damage adjacent plants (via soil uptake).
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
7 years ago
undiluted RU used to be 40% .... that # may have gone up a bit ... generic is fine ...

find the use directions online .... stump killing is addressed in such ...

all you need do.. on a fresh cut .. is apply it to the cambian layer.. so it gets sucked down into the roots ... if new sprouts appear ... snip and drip on cut ...

you saw the applicator i usually recommend???

i never went beyond using RU ... because i had other uses for it.. and its labeled for such ... i didnt need to have a second product around ....

ken

i did not watch all this.. and i wouldnt waste my time with drilling ... and i didnt like the brush .. PIA .. so i came up with the applicator ....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=httHAm4Hzwk
wisconsitom
7 years ago
What davidrt said..........exactly. Ken's comments are also right on. In truth, even the "big guys" don't always agree on which works better with which plant species.
brandon7 TN_zone7
7 years ago
I've seen at least one fairly extensive study directly comparing different triclopyrs to glyphosate. My summary of the results are that neither had a clear advantage, in general. Timing made a difference. Even on the same type of plant, triclopyrs would work a little better at one time of year and glyphosate would work better at another time of year. There wasn't a huge amount of difference in effectiveness for most plants, most of the time. Different woody plants also showed differences in effectiveness between the two products. As with timing, the difference was noticeable but both types did the job, with one type a little better for some species and the other a little better for others. Stating that one is better than the other is misleading. Both generally work well.
wisconsitom
7 years ago
Exactly^. And in at least some cases, response will be uneven across the same "job site", for reasons unknown. And this is with pros doing the work. We do so much of this, there's piles of brush-autumn olive, non-native honeysuckles, buckthorn, and even some low-value natives-box elder, cottonwood, green ash (now that we've got EAB here)...you could follow these brush piles around the area and by working backwards, determine where I've done a vegetation report, lol! And while the time of year just coming into view right now-fall and on into winter-is the very best overall time for cut/treat, we find that to a large degree, almost any time of year does work. I must say, a lot of that has been with Tahoe 3A, a water-soluble version of triclopyr. The guys seem to like it, so I keep buying it! But we've always got both aquatic and terrestrial versions of glyphosate on hand too.

Killing stumps with glyphosate

davidrt28 (zone 7)

Comments (8)

davidrt28 (zone 7)

Jean

Related Discussions

arbordave (SE MI)

ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5

wisconsitom

brandon7 TN_zone7

wisconsitom

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US