My before and after no leaf current state of my plant. The above post has all my information. Not sure why the post made me split it

Hi all - I posted about my FLF here earlier this year when it had a weird white spot. Al recommended I try a Bayer Advance Disease Control product, which I did. I sprayed the plant 3 times following the recommended intervals. But the problem persists. The white stuff is still there, and now there are weird spots on all the leaves, and some are splitting right in half. What is this? What do I do? I'd really appreciate any help. I very much want this plant to live. Thanks!

These the branches I had cut completely off from the top.

What are you using for a medium/soil? Is there a drain hole in the pot? are you using a collection saucer under the pot or a cache pot to collect the water that exits the drain hole(s)? are you allowing the plant to sit in the effluent (waste water) that exits the drain hole? How warm/cold is it in the room? If the plant has been in the same spot since its acquisition, odds are very high the leaf loss is a drought response due to over-watering. I'm going to leave a link that lays out an easy to follow strategy that will help you avoid all of the most common pitfalls hobby growers are forced to deal with until they have a strategy to avoid them. This is the link. As you read it, contrast what you're doing with what is suggested in what I wrote. Some things we're able to pursue and work on might jump out at you. The dark spot on the leaf tip in the 3rd image from top isn't the result of disease, over/under-watering, mechanical injury, or fertilizer burn. It is from chill injury, sunburn, or something poison to plants coming into contact with the leaf surface. Have you sprayed the plant with a cleaning product, insecticide, or wiped down the leaves with a mixture of water and something else? I suggest you start using a "tell", to "tell" you when it's time to water. Something I wrote about why close monitoring of the amount of air/water in the soil can be critical to the health of your plant: Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support good root health, which is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to a build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al