Can you remodel attic not to code?
Celia Lin
7 years ago
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remodeling attic to bedroom
Comments (2)Depending on your situation, (where the wires travel, if they have any slack in them, etc.), notching might work for you. Here's a blurb on joist notching : http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/asktoh/question/0,,1582745,00.html Also, if you're doing this with a permit, make sure you have the inspector in before you close in the joist area or you may have to take the floor back up for the inspector to see what you've done....See MoreAttic insulation/remodel: Cross posting in Old House forum
Comments (3)3,2,1. The dormers will drive all of the decisions. New building codes require more insulation now, and you may have to raise the roof plus add the dormers in order to get the required head room and the required R value for the insulation levels. If you've got to completely rebuild the top floor, you'd be wasting money and time doing any other project until that project is done. Even if you can build adequate headroom dormers with the required insulation levels out of what's there, you'd still be wasting effort to insulate what's there without creating the dormers first. And taking down all of that old charming wood will be required to insulate properly. So, you've got to get the addition sorted out first....See MoreRemodeling Attic into MBR
Comments (6)In addition or mightyanvil's recommendations, for a bedroom you'll have to take into account egress, ie how many stairs to an exterior door. Also the number of sqft of windows compared to the sqft of floor space. I did a no frills job in my 19' wide by by 46' long attic. It's about 850 sqft, 5' knee walls, and a peak height of just over 11'. The stairs are sort of in the middle of the room, one half is games (ping pong, foosball, etc) and the other half is home theater (stereo, seating, 133" front projector screen). I added 2" or foil-face polyiso insulation on the ceiling and 1" on the gable walls. Furring strips, then drywall. Added a faux ridge beam to hide electrics and to hang pendant lights and smoke detectors from, as well as a few more faux beams to break up the long expanse of ceiling. I built a bookcase to surround the stairwell opening. Built window seats on each 19' long gable wall, they hide the air conditioning ducts and also have storage underneath the lift-up seats. Did wainscotting on the 46' long kneewalls and on the 19' long gable-end walls. To acccess storage behind the kneewalls, I built five doors on each kneewall. Already had 3/4" subfloor, I added 1/2" homasote on top of that, then bamboo flooring over that. Added a half-bath, stacked over the master bath downstairs which made plumbing easy. Because the polyiso acts to block radiant heat gain through the roof, the attic doesn't get above 76 degrees on its own in the summer. Despite that I did add three supply and two return vents off the upstairs air conditioning air handler, which is behind one of the attic kneewalls. With the polyiso the attic stays warm in the winter, no heat is required. As a matter of fact, with the lights on and several kids in the attic, it tends to get a bit warm up there in the winter. It's very tight, no air infiltration through the envelope. Cost me a little under $10 a sqft for everything. I did all the work except for the drywall. I hate drywall! In the pic below you can see half of the almost-done attic, the beams are painted but the stairwell bookcase is only primed. "> Mongo...See MoreDesigner or architect for attic to master remodel?
Comments (4)A lot depends on how tall the interior of the space is currently. You will use up approximately 8" getting enough insulation in to make it habitable. And that is if you are doing an invented assembly. Are the joists sized to carry a live load? Or just storage? If there isn't 8' of ceiling height over about 60% of the space currently, then doing any type of project there is already well past your budget. You'd have to rebuild the roof in order to get the 7' minimum habitable space requirement Even if you have the height, you may need to add dormers for proper egress Windows As it is, I think you can get the design and the bedroom, or the bathroom. But not both. Might you have a good grasp if the structural issues, you could probably work with a designer. Otherwise, you need someone who does understand the structural issues and has experience with the local requirements that your permit office will have. That's an architect....See MoreCelia Lin
7 years agoCelia Lin
7 years agoCelia Lin
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoCelia Lin
7 years ago
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