Should I mulch mow weeds with flowers/seeds?
7 years ago
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- 7 years ago
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Ideas for replacing a patch of weeds with something no-mow
Comments (5)Okay, I can see it now -- but I didn't get there directly, so I'll point out what I did that eventually let me see the photo. This has happened to me before. Google/Picasa asks me to sign up for an account; I tell them no. I don't remember exactly where that takes me, but Google wants me to log in to my gmail account. At that point, I right-click on the Back button to open the drop-down menu of previous pages, and left-click on this thread to return here. Then I click on lukener's Picasa link again and there's the photo of the hill! === Well, of all the things I thought I might see in that photo, I definitely wasn't expecting that wall! What's growing down it? How much water comes out of the weep holes (the round pipes in the wall) in a good rain? Is the area nice and damp after a rain, or does the water run off? What's the soil like? Is that a small concrete path (or perhaps a bit of old foundation) between the grass and the weedy area? [Yes, I know this is probably more work than you're interested in, but ... particularly if the soil's thin, stony, or otherwise not good, I'd be tempted to add something -- edging or a few inches of recycled concrete slabs, extra cinder blocks, or chunks of rock -- along the concrete to make the area into a raised bed. It wouldn't be a very deep raised bed: just level with the base of the existing Big Gray Wall. Fill up the bed with whatever you can find: leaves, grass clippings, dirt if you have any extra, cardboard -- anything you'd put in a compost pile (including kitchen waste). Add earthworms occasionally when you come across them in other parts of the garden.] Something to add about free wood chips: even if a tree service won't give them to you for free (they're delivering them to you, after all) the price may still be a bargain. If you're not in a hurry, they might be willing to drop some off for a lower price the next time they're in your neighborhood. Also, you could ask your county's Cooperative Extension office for garden club sale info, or sources of free or low-cost mulch or even manure. http://extension.osu.edu/locate-an-office...See MoreShould I mow my bermuda higher?
Comments (12)As to the comments on golf greens must be talking about northern golf courses that use Bent Grass and other cool season grasses in the fairways and rough. Tifway-I aka 419 is a semi dwarf Bermuda grass developed specifically for golf courses in a joint venture by the USDA, Georgia Coastal Plain Experiment Station, and the U.S. and Southern Golf Associations in Tifton Georgia. It was breed to be cut very short. If cut every other day the grass blade and stolons will grow horizontally along the ground forming a very tight turf of sod. If allowed or not mowed frequently enough both stolons and grass blades will start to grow vertically to compete for sun light. When it does that it will thin out as the grass below it gets shaded out and starts to die off. You can grow Tifway-I higher than 1 inch if you wish, but understand the consequences. Those with rotary mower have no choice. With a rotary mower \, even with a reel mower you are going to have to raise the cutting height as summer goes along and the grass thickens up. Even golf courses wiht Bermuda fairways have to raise cutting heights a bit as summer progresses except for the greens. For the greens they have a secret you cannot duplicate very easily. They verticut, punch holes, and top dress with sand every few weeks. What happens as summer progresses the growth rate explodes. The grass thickens up so tight it literally pushes itself up growing layer upon layer. If you take your fingers and dig through the grass you will see what I mean. It will be layers upon layers of stolon growth making a tight fabric like material. You really have to dig hard to get through to find dirt....See MoreNewly seeded lawn: when should I do the first mowing?
Comments (1)In general you should not cut more than 1/3 of the height at a time. So the 3 inch grass can be cut to 2 inches. Go ahead and cut. The earlier you start cutting, the better for encouraging tillering. You can avoid the areas where the grass is shorter if you like. The main problem is turning the mower. If possible, keep going in a straight line until you're on a sidewalk or neighboring property and make your turn there. Your ground is very soft from all the watering and making a turn can disturb the soil. If you have to make the turn in the seeded area, just do it slowly and carefully, lifting the front wheels up (if you're using a push mower). On the day you cut, don't water until after you cut the grass, so the ground is as dry as possible. The new grass may flatten under the wheel tracks but it will straighten up soon....See MoreShould I mow?
Comments (4)Well, if the new hasn't reached 3" then if you cut at that height then all you can possibly do is nip the new stuff while at the same time cut the old. I'd say, yes...go ahead, make the usual mowing keeping the grass height no lower than 3". Cutting it higher; all that does is maybe let you cut it again at that height fairly soon.....rather than later. Three inches is a good height for a regular cut....it can shade out weed seeds. Myself, I like to keep it a bit higher....the grass can use the extra moisture that is in the higher blades. By the way.....if you use a bag by all means place the clippings in the compost pile..... If you don't have a compost pile.....start one. Compost given to a lawn early in spring does wonders by increasing the organic matter which helps the lawn retain moisture and feeds the soil. Invites worms to come....and better yet....stay....See More- 7 years ago
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