If you don't (or can't) flush the soil regularly when you water, the build-up of solubles (salts) in the soil is assured. As the level of salt in the soil increases, it becomes increasingly difficult for the plant to take up water and nutrients. High salt levels are also toxic to roots. In addition, the reduced rootage, and transpiring surface area above ground means less water usage and increased danger of over-watering. The easiest fix for problems like this it to prevent it from occurring in the first place by using a soil that will allow you to water correctly, virtually making over-watering and solubles build-up both non-issues. I think if you make that your goal, you can make some pretty big strides forward in your ability to keep your plants happy. For now, Here is what I would suggest you do: Move the tree to where you can flush the pot thoroughly - in the tub or shower is great. Saturate the soil with room temperature water and wait 10 minutes. Then, flush the soil with a volume of water at least equal to the volume of the container it's in .... 5-10 times - the more the better. This helps remove accumulating solubles (salt build-up) from the soil. After it stops draining, remove the tree from the pot & set it on newspaper over night. The paper will 'pull' excess water from the soil. Return it to the same pot next day. Wait to water until a wood dowel stuck deep into the soil comes out clean & dry. When it needs it's first watering after the flush, fertilize with a 1/2 recommended strength of MG 24-8-16 or 12-4-8, or Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 (my favorite). I suggest you add a wick to the pot for now. The wick will help excess water drain & allow you to water properly. You'll need to arrange for the pot to be ABOVE a collection saucer when you water, with the wick dangling below the bot 2-3", but NOT touching the effluent that collects in the saucer. When you water - use enough water so at least 10-15% of the total volume of water you apply exits the drain or drips off the wick. This keeps solubles from accumulating in the soil. You can learn more about why how water behaves in container soils here. If you absorb the information in this thread, it will stay with you and help you with your container gardening from now on. Any questions you have before you flush the soil and fertilize are welcome. Do you understand how the wick will help you? If you're still interested - I'll help you get set up so you can water properly until you can repot. Repotting is different from potting up, in that repotting includes bare-rooting, a soil change, and root pruning. Take care. Al

Dreamchaser, does your pot have drainage holes? Why water so much? 2-3 times a day is way too much water. What type of soil are you using? Water only when soil is dry..stick your finger deep into the soil..Sometimes top soil looks dry, but midway to lower soil remains wet. If the soil is constantly wet, eventually roots aren't going to absorb water and/or fertilizers. Lifting the pot is another way to test soil..lift plant when soil is dry..it should be light in weight..then water, and lift again..pot will be heaver. The last resort is using a water guage. Rapitest sells guages from 15.00 and up. Make sure your container has drainage holes. If it doesn't plus you're over-watering, your citrus will die. I hope the soil your using is well-draining. Heavy soils stay wet much longer than fast-draining mediums. For the time being, remove dead leaves. They will NOT return green. Clip dead branches, if any. If citrus is in a pot without drainage holes, repot in a well-draining soil, in a container with drainage holes. If possible, place you tree outdoors, staring in semi-shady area working up to brighter light. How often do you fertilize? If often, you may need to leach soil, (run water into soil to remove excess salts) Good Luck, Toni

Jennifer —-(Spraying with Neem Oil and or and other mixtures to eradicate the insects organically could still harm those beneficial insects. Some people will just let those pest stay on the tree because they dont want to harm them. Its a difficlt choice to make for some and you need to understand that some bad infestations that might get out of hand and could cause your trees to become weak and allow other diseses to slowly kill your tree. i always try and let Mother Nature work on the right balance of the pest verses the beneficial insets to keep everything in check. But sometimes i will have to step in and use more than organic to combact the problem. its up to you to decide what is best for your tree. Laura Even those that eat leaves ___ Katydids 🌺

A northwest window on top of the t.v. console is not enough light! It needs LOTS of very bright indirect light or a mix of indirect and dappled direct sun. The new growth is stretching because of low light levels and older leaves are prematurely dropping as the plant pulls needed resources our of old tissue to fuel growth. I've purchased several different plant species is self watering pots and invariably find them moderately to severely root bound, that is, when you go to knock the plant out of it's pot, there is nothing but a solid mass of roots, no loose soil. At this point the soil is exhausted. Fertilizing alone is of limited help. Re-potting must be done.