My thermometers have to be in full shade during a sunny day, or they give me 150+ degree readings. That's convenient that you live within the broadcast range of the thermometer. I am 1/4 of a mile away and it's cost prohibitive to transmit the data that far. I think the cheapest way would be to buy my greenhouse its own smart phone and data plan.

Your success with solving the high idle complaint will come easier with a good plan of attack. The first thing to determine is whether the high idle is caused by a mechanical issue, such as a faulty IAC, or a throttle plate that is not closing, or if the idle speed is actually being commanded high by the computer. One of the easiest ways to do that is to simply unplug the IAC with the truck at idle, and allow the engine to slow to the "minimum air rate" or base idle speed. There is no published spec, but if your minimum idle speed is in the 500-600rpm range in park, thats close enough. There is no normal service adjustments required, but if something is keeping the throttle plate from closing, then you'll have to correct that. Most likely, when you unplug the IAC, you will find either a normal minimum idle, or no change at all. If there is no change, and the throttle is not sticking open, suspect air is getting around the throttle plate, which could be a bad IAC, because thats exactly what it does, it allows air to enter the engine around the throttle plate. Normally the computer has complete control of the IAC, but it can fail mechanically, so it must be checked. The last senario has the idle speed being correct when the IAC is unplugged, and then going back up when it's plugged back in. this would suggest the computer is actually commanding the idle speed high. The questions from here are, is the computer getting a high power steering pressure input? Is the TPS spiking low, causing the computer to think the engine is at part throttle? Is the ECT, or IAT reporting to low of an engine temperature? This is where the correct scan tool becomes so important, because it allows the person trying to fix the car to see this information right from the computer.

You can look at the cable that connects to your laptop and make sure none of the pins inside are bent or askew. If they are, use a very small screwdriver carefully to straighten them out. Then try reconnecting. Do you have a friend or neighbor with a computer to which you could bring your monitor? That would be one way to test it. Another option would be to bring it in to some place that offers computer repair and see if they can get a signal into it. Right now you don't know if the problem is with the monitor or your laptop. If that's not possible, one thing you can do is use your laptop screen to start your computer (I'm guessing Windows) and go into the Displays Control Panel to set the computer to its lowest resolution. Then connect the Westinghouse and see if it works. If it does, the problem was with a video setting on your laptop and you can figure out the best settings for your own use. If it doesn't, it's still unknown whether it's the laptop or the display, but you know there's a hardware repair in there somewhere. You'll have to take it to a computer-repair place.

Thanks for responding, klaa2. I had no luck going from the wall directly to the TV or from the wall to the TV via the cable box using the cable outlet my old TV was hooked to. I ran it to a cable outlet in another room, and now both the cable box and TV are working. The old TV worked fine in that outlet, but I couldn't get the cable box to even register the time and the TV wouldn't pick up any channels (analog or digital) when I went through the setup scan. I'm using coaxial cable from the wall to the cable box and HD composite cable from the cable box to the TV. The cable box didn't come with an HDMI cable, but that would eliminate some cords. Should I get one? If I understand you correctly, after hooking up the HDMI cable, I'd need to set the cable box to output the HDMI signal and set the TV to receive the HDMI signal. Then, I'd need to go through the auto channel scan again, right? I'm not using a cable signal booster, unless the cable company has one installed that I don't know about. Maybe there's a signal booster at the outlet that I'm having problems with and the outlet in the other room (that's working) doesn't have a signal booster. I'm glad to know that the cable box and TV are both in working order, but it's scary having that cable running into another room. I'm kind of a klutz. Thanks for your help!