May I ask the OP where they have gotten their basic information culture information? I am curious where this information comes from. I see it many times from people new to orchids. I see nothing in the other post that states " Too much light". In fact I see the opposite many times over from experienced growers. I don't understand how the OP arrived at too much light conclusion. A Phalaenopsis is a tropical plant in a non-tropical environment. A Northern exposure and 50º temps would not benefit a Phalaenopsis or any other tropical flowering plant. Would you describe your present indoor conditons & culture? Would you tell us what steps you have taken to cure the "brown spot" problem? Would you be able to provide a photo? Would you tell us where/ when the plant was purchased? The OP has a declining plant. Spraying and misting cures nothing and can cause a variety of problems. You have a yet to be determined problem (I'd wager a lack of light). You have let it go for a few months. I would suspect your phal's problem has not improved. I strongly suspect you will face even greater problems quite soon. Spots don't disappear unless these were spots caused by a sudden shift in light (more) which happens in the fall months. You have brought it inside and the plant is now underlight, "darkening down". The spots would disappear under those circumstances. Plants leaves get darker the less light given. This is not a good thing. There is nothing that resembles Phalaenopsis culture (care). Buds don't stay forever. It's not a realistic expectation. I am not sure how that comes as a surprise to folks new to orchids . It's not the first time that I have seen an OP shocked that their bloom cycle is ending. I am not wondering if it is the price that is somehow associated bloom longevity. The OP posted more than 2 months ago. The plant may have run it's flowering cycle. Why will the spikes will be cut back to the 3rd node? Whay aren't they being cutt all the way down? I'm asking for my own curiousity, where this information comes from? Is the OP hoping the plant will re-bloom from the 3rd node? It is rare event for a phal in more ideal condtions to re-flower, a Big Box phal even more remote, a sick phal, probably suicide The plant needs attention and culture that fits a phal: - An acclimation to proper light. A south or East window supplimented by 14-16 hours of light every day Temps that are in the 75-80º range day and no lower than 60º night A solid watering regime which Richard describes above, not a dip in a bowl of water Dispense with misting if there is a problem. The risk of rot is quite high, especially when the plant is underlight. The plant is also risking over-watering. Misting does not increase humidity around the plant. Misting can cool leaves, leave spots, create rot. The plant needs time to grow a new set of leaves in proper phal conditons. Then it may reflower for you next year Clara

If one keeps doing multiple things to the Plant, one is unlikely to be able to discover WHICH is working or not. I can't see in your pix what the problem is, but you mentioned it had been cold & you'd been watering too much. The combination of cold & wet can be deadly to many succulents. If it's cold then don't water. Here's where the succulent motto comes in: As to watering, when in doubt, don't No one has addressed what your mix is, perhaps it's not fast draining enough. Lastly, does the pot have a drainage hole? I'd check the drainage & then I'd leave the plant alone to recover for a while.

The 1st looks like xGraptosedum 'Francesco Baldi'. Possibly too much water, causing rot. Some dieback of lower leaves is normal. 2nd pic, plants look like possibly an xGraptosedum 'Ghosty' & the other xGraptosedum 'California Sunset'. Looks like sunburn/rot. I'd add something to your soil tomake it more porous. (non-water retentive)

This is long post, so I apologise in advance :) After cutting top parts off, you could leave all lower trunks with roots potted, and they may grow. It likely depends on how healthy plant is. Here are some 'leftover' stems after tops were decapitated, and they are growing new plantlets and/or branches - they are all different plants:Another possibility is that they may grow from the roots, right at the soil level; here are couple of examples - hope you can see them as they are quite tiny:Top parts that were cut off - cuttings, would be best to let callus = heal just for few hours, unpotted. After that, stick them into well draining mix and let grow. These should be kept out of strong sunlight until they start growing, and then slowly - every few days - moved into best light you have. 8cm pot isn't too small, I would put 2 - 4 cuttings in it, depending on size. You may want to consider another approach: try to get existing plants to be healthier. They may be quite weak from being in very low light. Let them grow for a while, but in better light - I would use those great windows you seem to have. After they get much sturdier, you could behead them as suggested. Cuttings that don't have any roots shouldn't be watered until they start growing roots. You'll be able to tell when you very lightly tug the cutting and feel some resistance - that means roots already started growing into potting mix. Or when new growth starts appearing. Leftover stems with roots can be watered regularly. I would improve the mix for potting them. If nothing else, get a bag of coarse perlite and mix it 50:50 with soil. I would not follow advice you were given - ..." only water with a syringe, only a few drops will do"... Succulents need to be watered thoroughly when all the potting mix in the pot is almost completely dry. That could be few days or longer. It all depends on the mix and the temperatures. That is why you need to improve drainage of the mix and use pots with drainage holes. Plastic pots are just fine (I have about 200 succulents in plastic pots), but if you prefer terracotta, use them. If you have water-retaining mix, plastic or terracotta pots will not make too much of difference. Your Kalanchoe tomentosa needs more light too. They will grow woody and longer stems as they get older. Rosettes should be quite tight and leaves will get rich color in good sun:Pls. ask any questions you may have :)