The prior message was correct that bushes and vines will give you fruit faster than trees will. Figs and kiwi will grow in your area, but you must make sure to get varieties that are cold hardy. These can be found but you need to Google "Cold Hardy figs" and do a bit of reading before you buy plants. The smaller non-fuzzy Hardy Kiwi can be grown even in zones 3 and 4, but not the bigger fuzzy kiwi. A raised bed with everbearing/day neutral strawberries will give you a really good harvest the second summer after you plant them and some the first summer. You can order bare root strawberry plants in early March that will cost a small fraction of the cost of the potted ones for sale in the summer at retail locations. They will look dead when you get them, but if you read ahead and plant properly, bare root strawberries will probably give you more fruit, faster, for less cost and effort than any other fruit. Raspberries and Blackberries are a close second. Blueberries make a great plant for the yard, but keeping the pH of the soil low enough can be difficult for some people. If your soil has a naturally high calcium level and high pH, blueberries may be eaiser to grow in containers where you control all the soil rather than fighting against a soil base that keeps raising the pH for your plant. Someone asked a similar question in the containers forum. I have copied part of my answer to them regarding a wonderful book that could help you as well as a website for information. The book is published by Rodale Press, one of the oldest and best sources of information on organic garden and sustainable agricultural techniques. Whether you go organic or not, the book as great information about starting a backyard orchard. ....I would recommend one of my favorite books on the subject. You can get it used from one of Amazon's used book dealers for under $6 including shipping. If you want to raise a backyard orchard it is well worth the $6. It is a book that is straightforward and full of information. On Amazon's "Look Inside", you can see the table of contents, a few example pages, and the index. One of the best parts of the book is not shown in the preview. It has a 50 page alphabetic encyclopedia section, which gives almost everything you need to know about a variety of fruits from Apricots to Tayberries. All of the fruits are for small backyard gardens, and all but a few are great for containers. I cannot recommend this book high enough for beginners or experience gardeners who are new to growing fruit. In 160 pages, it has more information about a home orchard, than I have ever seen in one book, even ones many times longer. By Rodale Press ISBN-978-0875966380 "Backyard Fruits and Berries: Everything You Need to Know About Planting and Growing Fruits and Berries in Your Own Backyard" One shortcoming of the book is that it was printed in 1995, so when it recommends specific varieties of plants, it will not have the newest varieties listed. This is not to say that the information is not still valuable. I have a fondness for heirloom varieties that are often some of the best tasting. Many of the advancements with new varieties are not for taste, but for better shipping for commercial growers. Some traits that commercial growers want are the opposite of what a home grower would want. Commercial growers want a plant with fruit that ripens all at once, while home growers often prefer an extended fruiting period. Cornell Guide to Growing Fruit at Home is a great resource for gardeners in New York state and surrounding area. "http://www.gardening.cornell.edu/fruit/index.html" Here is a link that might be useful: Rodale Press's Backyard Fruits and Berries: Everything You Need to Know...

And lastly, this is actually on my Healthier vine. >> I think I wasn't watering them enough when it started warming up and only really started watering them every two days about a month ago so this could be an older leaf from that. But just putting this here in case it can help>

I think you need a bigger pot and probably a white pot. The pot should be made of plastic I am guessing that there are few clouds there and the humidity is low. The solar radiation you get is much higher than mine even on my brightest days. I grow my trees in a soil with 3 to 4 time the water retention of the 5-1-1 mix that is recommended for citrus. This prevents my tree from drying out in the summer but I must use a vacuum chamber in the winter to prevent root rot.My citrus tree containersUsing a vacuum cleaner to draw fresh air through the root base to prevent root rot. You won't need the light set up shown but with a heavy soil your tree will benefit from the drawing of fresh air a few times a week. Check for pest like spider mites and spray for that insect. They are to small to seed with out a low powered microscope of at least 10X 6b Steve

hand dig a few small holes.. 3 to 6 inches deep.. around the tree ... in the gob planted.. plus native soil ... and FIND OUT about moisture down in the root zone ... adjust watering accordingly ... what is any spray protocol have you done ... since dormancy ended ... where are you.. big city name ... whats the weather been since spring ... welcome to the forums ... btw.. there is a fruit forum ... should we fail here .. which i doubt ... i gave up on my fruit growing dreams.. because i didnt want to invest in the requisite spraying.. when the babes came along ... i just had other things to do ... there is little you can do now.. to save the fruit now ... so you are left with starting a prevention program for next year ... integrated pest management is how you do it ... link below ... IPM .... and we have to make sure the tree stores enough energy for next spring ... and we start by insuring proper watering ... i highly doubt its a fert issue ... the tree is stressed.. not hungry... imo ... https://sites.google.com/site/tnarboretum/Home/planting-a-tree-or-shrub ken https://duckduckgo.com/?q=damage+to+peaches+on+tree&t=ffcm&iar=images&iax=images&ia=images how to prevent: https://duckduckgo.com/?q=peach+tree+ipm&t=ffcm&ia=web