A couple of observations. I don't get your model # to come up in Briggs look up, and the Murray # doesn't seem to be of any help either. It would be helpful to post the model and type # to know for sure. If the cylinder head looks as the one in the picture, then no problem. The Hammerwall link is showing a different model #. If this is an aftermarket fuel cap, they sometimes like to put the part # sticker over the vent hole in the cap- like MTD likes to do. I don't see any indication that the cooling system has been cleaned. If this is a significant oil burner, bad carbon build up in the combustion chamber doesn't help. With all this being said, Bill's probably right with the starter being tired, but it would be good to know the answers to these questions.

Walt I am the one that bought the snapper. the model number is 30083s. Most websites I have been to to lookup parts says that this particular mower may have come with an 8 hp engine. This snapper I got for 100 bucks and I posted another article on this forum on June 16, 2009. It was in relation to the single circuit wire and the dual circuit wiring. the dual circuit after testing with a tester turned out to be faulty. The single circuit came from a 12hp Murray riding lawn mower. The fly wheel came from the murray as well. The original flywheel on the snapper had plastic teeth and there were spots in it that were bad. After measuring and talking with a mechanic from a lwan mower repair shop, it was ok to use the 12 hp flywheel and single circuit. The engine runs fine and charges the battery now. The single circuit wire runs to the push button and that connects to the positive wire that runs to the battery. Everything looks good so far. The snapper is easy to start and sometimes when cold don't even need the choke. The starter is old and has been in out in the weather some. The whole lawn mower was sitting outside a lawn mower repair shop for about a month or so. The lady who was selling it and ran the shop, didn't know anything about it. She was asking 100 and I offered 80 and she turned it down. She said she had to have 100 for it. In hindsight I probably could have gotten it from someone else for a little less than 100 bucks. Everything works on it and even the old gas that was in it worked with a little fuel treatment. The battery is 5 years old or so and it still holds a charge when put on the charger. The deck on it is not adjustable in the sense of adjusting it like on a 42inch lawn mower. It does have handlebars to steer it with. If you go to www.snapper.com and look up manuals and then type in 30083s it will show a list of manuals you can look at. Pick either one of the parts manuals and it shows pictures of what I have. It does show some examples of either a 10 or 11 hp engine, but not 11.5. Must be a newer engine than what came on the snapper originally. Still when taking into account what someone was trying to do to it to get it running before I got it, not a bad deal overall. The wiring to the push button start was actually hooked up backwards and that meant that the starter would always be running with the engine running. That might explain some of the teeth on the old flywheel being gone. The only thing I do now is turn the key to the on position and mash the button and it starts right up. There are tubes in the front tires and one front wheel actually has wheel bearsing where the other one doesn't. Howver, it doesn't affect the steering any. The drive tires has many cracks and a few plugs and it does leek air if sitting for a few days. May have to replace later on. Only put 8 dollars into it. I spent a majority of the 8 dollars on the oil and the rest on a few nuts and bolts for the blade. My dad wants me to flip it which means to sell it quickly for 250 or so and get something a little newer. The only problem is, most people around where I live that are selling lawn mowers are wanting a pretty penny for junk. I almost spent 150 on a massey ferguson that would have needed a lot of work. It had a tecumseh engine on it and it was the pull start type. The tecumseh engine was missing parts and the deck needed to be oiled and greased to be able to lower and raise it. The blades were drive with an axle typ drive that went the width of the deck and had a gear in a cover that spun the blades. The transmission belt looked good but the back part of the body was rotted with rust and needed brackets to hold the seat and body onto the frame. The tires were good and up, but there was more that had to be done. It did have the typical 3 or 4 speed tractor like shift to it. I was going to ask the man if he would take less and thought differently and left. He had many lawn mowers including some john deere rear enging riders that needed work and he was asking alot of money for them. I may try to sell mine in a few weeks after I have used it for a little while and make sure it won't breakdown on someone. Thanks for the information you have given us Walt.

I discovered that the problem was the safety switch for the mower deck. It has come out of its mounting position, but I can't figure out where that is so I can put it back. The switch is located on the left side (when facing the front of the mower) below the gas tank. There is a small (3/4") square hole in the sheet metal where it appears that the button on the switch could portrude thru, and that possibly there was a mounting bracket that held it in place (this is the case with the safety switch under the seat). However, there doesn't appear to be anything beneath that hole that would make contact with the button when the mower deck lever is raised and lowered. Any suggestions on the proper location of this switch? I have taped the button down as a short term fix so I can use the mower. Also, although unrelated to the starting problem, the brake pedal is definitely having trouble stopping the mower. What's the most likely cause and fix for this? Thanks!

RE: What kinda of riding mower should i get Posted by: RaptorMan03 (My Page) on Mon, Dec 13, 04 at 1:55 That is nice but i do not wanna mow with 3 blades, I hear too much about bad cuts!!! Raptor Do not believe every thing you hear.I have heard the same story about 3 blade systems.But atleast in my case it is false.I prefere a 3 blade system.I have owned several of both types and the 3 blade decks win.I have an LX277 with a 48C 3 blade and a 2 blade Cub Cudet 2166.The Deere does a better job of cutting.I also had a 2 blade John Deere LX178 38'' deck 2 blade that did not cut as well.I have had others through out the years and the 3 blade systems all out performed the 2 blade systems. Another example was my brother had a Sears Craftsman LT1000 2 blade.He griped about how poor it cut.He sold it and bought a JD L-120 that is a 3 blade 48'' and he is now happy with the cut quality. I would not rule out either 2 or 3 blade systems but.I feel a 3 blade system offers the best cut.The only bad thing about 3 blades is it seems they need scraped and cleaned sooner then a 2 blade.The grass clippings build up faster.