I clean our Legion every 2 weeks. They replaced their previous linoleum floor with a laminate flooring. Both floors are light coloured an I was always on my hands and knees getting the black marks off. I used a Mr Clean eraser at first but then stopped, it left white marks, not residue from the eraser itself, but it was taking the coating of the floor off. Even when using an eraser on the walls to remove scuff marks, I can see pale spots. I really don't like using them. What took it off quick and easy was the blue easy-off pad. A couple of swipes and immediately wipe off the blue soap and it was clean.

I was able to remove some white scuff marks on cherry cabinets by previous owners. The marks were on the bottom edges of the doors in the family room and the hallway built in dresser. I used a wet thin cotton cloth and the edge of my finger nail inserted into the cloth to lightly scrape the mark away. Unfortunately, some areas are lighter because I believe the vacuum actually scraped off the finish. The result was better than the white residue left on the cabinet door edges.

Carlos229, I am certainly not advocating the use of "primer and paint" products on new drywall routinely, mostly from a cost standpoint. Drywall sealers are half the cost of paint. Especially when one is priming textured drywall, significant amounts of primer gets sucked up. My example in the previous post merely pointed out how well Regal Wall Satin performed on new drywall as a primer when satin oil enamel was put over it. When going over existing finishes, even those of low quality, two coats of a "primer and paint" product can give excellent results, be cost competitive and save time, this of great importance to the Pro , who in the final analysis, is selling primarily his time, not the paint. One example I give to homeowners is the following scenario: you are painting a room that takes about 1 1/2 gallons to cover each coat. The customer is using a strong color, so tinting the primer is advisable. So he orders 2 gallons of tinted primer and then has 1/2 gallon of a now tinted primer left over. He then buys two gallons of the finish coat, and then has again 1/2 gallon left over. Would it not have been better to simple buy 3 gallons of the "paint and primer" paint? Further, he will have saved time not having to stop and clean out all of his painting equipment when changing from primer to paint. I just recently painted a large training room at Home Depot using Behr's best Marquee Eggshell. There were many spot patches on the wall and also about 100 square feet of wall which had to be skim coated with drywall mud to get rid of old textured wall. The Marquee itself was used as the primer on these areas. I can attest to the fact that the spot patches did not flash through the finish coat. Also, the large skim coated area was similarly well sealed. As the finish coat was a strong gray color, I did not need to tint a primer. I also did not have to mess around with two different products and additional clean up. I am not disputing that there are times when dedicated primers are warranted, merely that there are times when use of "paint and primer" paints are justifiable from the aspects of final quality, cost and labor expended. As a four decade Pro contractor, my labor was more costly than the paint. Now from a my homeowners perspective, competitive cost and convenience are appreciated, along with first class end results.

We at Value Fencing PVC suggest using a Chlorine based Kitchen cleaner. For fine scratches or stubborn stains, use a 1200 gritt water sand paper. Sand in sircles. The polish your PVC / Vynil fence with a Automotive polishing care such as P11, or whatever you can find at your local Automive paint shop. It works like a dream.