There is no technical reason not to use modular block (also called segmental retaining wall or SRW - what you are calling a "paver"). If you go with a mortared block wall, you should have a footing below grade down to the frost line which adds considerable work and expense. If you don't, it will crack from freeze/thaw movement. One benefit of SRW's is that they are designed to move with the freeze/thaw cycle. That eliminates the need to put a footing several feet down in the ground saving on excavation, material (you don't need blocks between the footing and grade), and not having to destabilize a slope with a deep hole at its base while constructing it. Another benefit is that they do not require a high degree of skill and training to construct, so you have a lot more and cheaper people available to build these. They are an easier DIY project, but not that easy. Still another benefit is that they are rather easy to drain. Water buildup in the soil behind retaining walls is often the cause of wall failure. SRW are not universally loved. In some places they are seen as high class and in other places they are accepted as cheap looking suburbia or industrial park looking. It depends what part of the country you live in and the taste of the area. Stone walls (well crafted) are seen as timeless and universally accepted as high end. They cost 50-100% more than SRWs due to the skill, training, labor time, and availability of qualified people to do the work. We do not see very many stucco concrete block walls in my area. I don't know that I have seen a new one at all. The SRWs and stone walls have replaced them. Their failure rate has something to do with it since many are not built on proper footings.

A fiberglass shell MUST have at least a two foot and preferably a 3 foot concrete collar. This provides added weight and rigidity, especially if the pool needs to be emptied for service needs. Concrete crack formation can be minimized by using certain techniques that may add to the up front cost. Some masons cut these corners to come in on a job at a lower cost. Cut corners may include improper soil prep, fewer expansion joints, cheap mix, thin spots, and a litany of other potential variables. While it's true that even with the extra steps taken, concrete may still form a crack, it creates a surface that will last decades and will be unaffected by a salt cell's use. A swimming pool salt water chlorine generator won't create cracks or make them worse. Someone is swinging the FUD bat. FWIW, pavers are usually made of concrete, just in smaller pieces. Some regions actually pour a concrete bed first. Sea water is a different animal than water in a pool. It's a different salt and in a different concentration plus there are a lot of other factors that are different. What the ocean does to concrete and steel vs. what pool water does is comparing apple to oranges. Scott

I have a similar question than the one posted earlier. I am planning to do a 867Sq ft of stone pavers. I have very rocky clay base. And am planning to pour a concrete slab of about 3-4" thick myself. Once that is done then I plan to lay the pavers on the top using mortar. The only reason I want to use the concrete pad is that I don't want any roots to break or disrupt the pavers. I will be pouring the pad for the first time and laying the pavers also for the first time in my life. I have read about how to do it, and have a few friends to help. I will be mixing the cement, sand, gravel and water in my backyard itself. Any comments on the possible pitfalls or on the entire plan that would help me do this big project would be very helpfu. Thanks in advance, Tajir

Brick is generally softer and more prone to breaking. Also will be slightly smaller than pavers. Stone will be irregular and require more careful fitting. That, in my opinion, are the only drawbacks of the three. Decide the look you desire and go for it. The base is the same for all and is important that it be proper for your climate.