We used to have two full size nubian goats on about an acre. We also got them as 'lawnmowers' but two goats were not enough by the way. Ours were nuetered males which I would recommend. Very friendly and fun. Our husky grew up with them and they all played well together. Make sure you have a high fence or an electric fence. We opted for electric. Worked great! Another thing to consider is having them dehorned. Our fence had six inch gaps between the wires. If they had had horns, they might've gotten stuck. Also, if you have trees, they will will strip the bark right off of them. But enjoy them, they are really fun.

Sheesharee said: I'm trying to grasp putting the ornaments in the middle section. If you don't have enough to fill wouldn't it look like the color is just in the middle? I don't think I'm explaining this right. I don't think your trees look like there's vertical color in the middle. It's all well balanced. Back to Me: I will try to explain it better, sorry, so much easier to show someone in person LOL. OK, what I ment was you would put a large amount of the plain gold balls (in this case) in the internal part of the tree. You can place them sporadically inside the tree making sure though you start at the inside (where the trunk is) with the plain gold balls. Let me make this part more clear with what I deal with. Primary decorative ornaments I want to be able to see easily: Primary tree decorations. The pretty red decorative balls. The crystal drops. The glass icicles. The silk flowers,in this case red(this is something I choose to use) Secondary: The plain inexpensive gold balls. These are ment primarily for the inside "stuffing of the tree", BUT, some are used in a much smaller amount on the outside areas of the tree (parts you can see) for bringing in the gold ball as a SMALL ACCENT. So in answer to your question you would be treating your plain balls as a filler and tiny accent, NOT as the primary decoration. You would be using the PRIMAIRY balls on the outside, icicles, crystal drops, silk flowers. So that means you would buy 100 or so of the cheap balls for the inside and small outside accents. You would then be buying the PRIMARY balls, crystals, icicles in much larger amounts (I use at least a total of 300-500 of these primary items) Now my DD doesn't like as much as an over kill tree as me (although anyone coming to her home and seeing her tree is just in awe of it) So she uses the same items as I do basicly, but cuts the amount of ornament down to about HALF of what I do, and I think her tree is very beautiful. Now, I am just explaining how I decorate a tree, it doesn't mean that it is everyone elses taste. In the evolution of your tree you will come to the realization of what is best for you. My tree that I am doing this year was an evolving process, it took me quite a few years to get where I am, that is because since I am not wealthy, I have to do it a little bit at a time every year. I am happy to say, that I don't think I have to buy any more for the cream, crystal, and gold tree. Thank goodness! LOL Oh, yes, and as a bonus I can used the glass icicles and crystals with any color theme of tree, they fit right on in, so that saves me money too. This is an example of my cream color theme on some stacking plates. Does that make more sense?

When exterior materials of different coefficients of expansion are rigidly attached to one another, they will eventually fail. Therefore, the attachment detail of veneer materials not only needs to allow water to drain, it must allow the materials to move independently. This is why the original "brick veneer" system had a cavity between the structural wall and a wythe of brick 4" thick and the brick was supported on a ledge and attached to the wall with flexible ties. A stone veneer wall was the same with 4" thick stone. I've designed and built many buildings with this system. Designing a tile-like cladding for a wood framed wall is difficult even in warm, dry climates. Some good systems were described in this thread 5 years ago. I'm not sure why cultured stone would perform worse than natural stone except that it absorbs more moisture, however, the joints do that anyway and in the photos above, the cultured stone doesn't appear to have cracked.

beekeeperswife- Our Garland range (the precursor to Bluestar) is 36" wide, with a 36" wide shelf and ss backsplash (not tiled in, it's a sheet of ss). The hood is 42" and where the range hood meets the backsplash there is about 1.5" gap on either side. It does not bother us, but we're not that detail oriented, YMMV. The warming shelf is a great place to store the kitchen timer, mortar & pestle, salt shakers and pepper mill, and a great plate warmer. The rangehood is vintage Broan, so no heat lamps, but if you are cooking either in the oven or on the rangetop, the plates will warm up nicely there. WRT the underside getting gummed up, we're not clean freaks, and the cleanliness of the underside of anything never weighs on my mind, so I've never even looked. There is a lip, so the underside is about 2" up underneath (if that makes sense). When I clean the shelf itself I swipe the finished edge of the lip and call it good. Good luck- sandyponder