Fruithack, thank you for the link! Could persimmons be any more beautiful? Too big for the fig bed, but the notion of having one elsewhere on the property makes my heart go pitter-pat. Tcstoehr, thank you for your wonderful feedback. I was so fixated on the planting of semi-dwarf fruit trees on the other side of the house that i sort of inadvertently dismissed how large these fig trees would get unless i intervene. Having said that, i still want them to be trees, rather than bushes. I'll do a bit of research on how to maintain a tree-like shape ... Murky, i'm hoping there'll be enough sunlight on the blueberries as the figs mature, as the house is quite a distance from the bed. The pictures are a bit deceiving in this regard. As for orientation, the dogwood on the upper tier is east, the center azaleas in the foreground west, the deck south. Gads, i hope they'll get enough sun! Thank you everyone for your thoughts, suggestions and guidance ... :)

Hi, Christie. I highly recommend any of the Calamagrostis hybrids. My favourite is 'Karl Foerster'. It doesn't have variegated leaves but (at least in my experience with that variety and the variegated 'Overdam') that makes it a taller plant. I think the problem with giving heights, with or without plumes, is that the climate, growing conditions, etc. will largely determine how large a plant grows. I garden in Zone 3, and few perennials achieve the height and width listed in catalogues. That being said, 'Karl Foerster' grows quickly each spring into a stately plant, even in the Frozen North. I have 5 clumps, so far (I'm planning to divide them soon--there's no such thing as too much of this grass), and I just cut down the dried plumes last weekend to let the new growth come up. We don't normally get heavy, wet snow here, so the ornamental grasses look gorgeous all winter long. I've included a link to one of my favourite nurseries (in Canada). It gives very detailed information about the grass, along with some lovely photos. Here is a link that might be useful: Karl Foerster feather-reed grass

Cup of Glad this thread is continuing to get so much traffic. I'm curious first, why are you replacing your windows? I ask because what most people don't realize is in "most" cases the best windows for any home are the ones that were originally installed - The exceptions to that can range from poor quality windows, poor install, failure Think about many homes that were built around turn of the century - 75 -100 yrs ago, how the windows have stood the test of time. Yes, they are not "energy efficient" however, from a proper fit & aesthetic view point they work. I think when the window sales people massage the homeowner on the "efficiency" issue - If you are changing out 16 windows let's say at avg rate of $750/window - for product & install that would be 12K - . The equation the sales people negate to offer said homeowner is what the return on investment would be & how long it would take to get there. I have done this, believe me - It would take most folks 10-20yrs to realize any investment. If you have done your homework & still feel replacement is the way to go - other considerations that should be taken; What is the original architectural render of the home? Can a replacement window capture that? think size/scale - muntins, mullions, configuration, trim, fascia - One can't just figure a one size fit & then install without a compromise elsewhere. Pictures of the exterior of your home in daylight & night help with proper choices. This is where I see many failures. One can have a beautiful 1900 home and take out all windows & replace w/replica vinyl - One could put in custom wood in the same home, but that does not guarantee aesthetically correct rendering. I found looking in window books & catalogs helpful only to a certain degree - I had to make sure the size, material configuration was indeed matching to what the original rendering of the home was (that was only for 4 windows!). Yes, it took some doing - when I finally thought I had it right, my architect friend brought yet another issue to light - "The muntins make the window look squatty" huh? - turns out the configuration of the muntins created a rather horizontal appearance in the individual panes rather than vertical - she was right. BTW we used Marvins - the project was a kitchen gut in 1930 Dutch colonial home. The replacement windows were done because the part of the kitchen we replaced the windows was once a screened in porch and PO put in aluminum picture windows w/side casements on front & back - ALL wrong for the home & unbalanced. Research here and other places led me to the Marvins - very pleased with the product. For the rest of the windows (26) double hung - we considered Marvin's sash replacement product (mentioned above) but do to the scope of our original renovation & cost over runs we decided against this. Instead I found "the window doctor" - yes that is the name of his company. For $200/window he replaced all parting strips, re-weighted where needed, all new roping, repaired chalking - Many of the windows were not operational, painted shut etc. Every window is now operational & they are lovely over 80 yrs young & very fitting to the home. I wish more homeowners would give consideration to rehabbing windows rather than ripping them out for a substandard product. Ok, I'm an old house snob - truth is told Best to you - stepping off soapbox

Switchgrass--there are several really nice varieties marketed and they are quite beautiful when in bloom which starts in July and are ornamental all winter. Queen of the Prairie, Maximillian Sunflower, Amorpha fruticosa, Helianthus angustifolius (Swamp Sunflower) An impressive specimen grass that will get very large & dramatic when grown wet --bottom photo--Muhlenbergia lindheimeri). These are all large native plants. Queen of the Prairie & AmorphaMaximillian Sunflower Heavy Metal Switchgrass (top) Muhlenbergia lindheimerii (bottom) Shenandoah Switchgrass Swamp Sunflower