Answers to my questions and
testing of my proposed solution are desired. Tried to anticipate questions which is why it is a long post. :( Thanks

Issue needing to correct:

1. For about 14’
   along back side of house and 20’ along side of house, the lawn extends 2” above
   and eventually gets to about to 2” below the bottom of siding.

2. The grade is
   completely flat along back side house for 30 feet extending out from structure
   and in this area the grade is 2” above bottom of cypress vertical boards. I know I need to create a slope away from the
   house.

3. Water ponds along
   the back foundation because of roof run-off.
   I have about 950 SF of roof water coming off of one downspout. I watched the water during a heavy (1/2”
   rain), and even with 6’ downspout extender, the soil could not absorb it fast
   enough so the surface water began to pool and was drawn back towards the house
   due to low spots in the grade close to foundation.

Questions

1. See pictures – I
   assume the horizontal cement in the dug out area is the footer extending 6” out from foundation
   wall - correct? The footer is about 8” below grade (which surprises
   me, but maybe this is normal depth).

2. I had an energy
   efficiency study done, and it noted that the heat loss spots were along the
   seam where interior floor meets wall around the perimeter of the house. In the winter, the cork tile floor is
   noticeably colder along the walls, also concrete floor contracts and a few cork
   tiles become loose. Am I about to create
   more heat loss, because the foundation will be exposed to ambient temperature? If yes, what is the cure for this issue? There
   is about 6” of foundation wall above footer before cypress board starts.

3. Considering there
   is no basement, how much space is needed between soil line and cypress
   boards - is 3” sufficient?

4. If recommending 6”between
   soil and boards can positive slope from foundation be extremely steep and short,
   e.g., 3’ foot depth four feet from house and slope it upwards towards house) to
   keep rain and snow melt from foundation?
   If I am directing the roof water to a percolating area 11’ from the
   house, my “slope” needs to accommodate naturally occurring water along foundation
   - correct?

Facts

1. House was a custom
   design built in 1954 by an amateur architect (designed his homes in FL and
   Costa Rica) who was also an attorney from a prominent local family. The family came from old money; thus, house
   was not part of a slap ‘em up tract housing, and there were financial means to
   do things right.

2. Location is SE
   Penna on loamy soil that drains well.

3. House has no
   basement or crawl space; one story, 20” roof overhang.

4. Flooring
   throughout the home is cork tile (bathroom is ceramic tile) with hot water radiant
   ceiling heat.

5. Exterior of the
   house (I am told by PO – not the architect) are vertical cypress boards that PO’s
   father had covered with the horizontal aluminum siding in the 1970s. PO said his father applied creosote to the
   boards (?). The aluminum siding is still up.

6. The alum siding was
   applied so that approximately 1-2” of the cypress board extends below the alum siding in areas; however, bottom of boards were hidden behind a 6” cement skirt
   that was laid around the house. (I am
   guessing) roof tar and some fibrous material was applied to create a seal between
   cement and aluminum siding to keep out elements.

7. I have removed the
   cement skirt and dug out 6” down and 6” away to see what is going on along
   foundation and bottom of siding.

8. I know about
   calling for utilities and that water cannot be directed to neighboring property
   – there is a swale 35‘ from side of house that accommodated a recent 500 year
   rain event.

Options considered

1. Landscape
   owner/friend (30+ years hardscape/landscape design/teacher) suggested
   constructing a swale, but that is moving major amounts of soil due to flatness
   of back yard. My municipality will
   require topo survey and stormwater management plans. Local surveying company quoted $6,000 for
   both. Can’t stomach that expenditure before
   one iota of soil is moved.

2. Codes
   enforcement/builder friend (40+ years) suggested French drain that empties into
   existing swale on side of house. This will
   require trenching about 35’ to get to existing swale and crossing over underground
   elec and phone lines. I have shingle
   grit coming off of roof to help clog the French drain holes, and it will require
   pipe to take either a 90 degree turn (I have considered building it with a “clean
   out” access near turn) or trench a curved line to get to swale to lessen opportunities
   for blockage in sharp turn.

3. Co-worker said his
   neighbor who was getting water in basement erected rain barrels to catch
   downspout water and direct roof water through
   hoses from barrel to existing swale a distance from structure. I rather like this simple elegant design and
   asked co-worker to find out what occurs during winter months. My location would place barrels along south facing
   wall that get full AM sun.

4. After considering
   the above, I am settling towards directing downspout water into a yet to be created
   rain garden (percolating area) through buried PVC pipe in a 11’ trench that is
   sloped downward towards area that will connect to the downspout. The pipe will be a straight line from house (no turns, not
   run along foundation or over utilities).