Have you seen 'Little Gem' locally? First thought would be hardiness: it would be costly to lose the amount of trees that would be required to a severe cold event. But probably more important, are you in the snow belt? Magnolia grandiflora, and 'Little Gem' in particular do not react well to massive snow loads.

The area is very narrow. Your images of a "hedge on a stick" was what popped into my mind first. They look great but are HIGH MAINTENANCE. Will you be able to do that yourself or will you have to hire it out? Another thing is your neighbor, will your plantings encroach, maybe causing hard feelings? Will you have to access the adjoining property for maintenance. If you choose an elevated hedge, be aware that they are great snow catchers also, and there is the potential for damage or even destruction.

I don't mean to be Dr. Doom, but these are things you should ask before you proceed with what could be expensive in both time and money.

Southern mags are tougher than they are given credit for. Mine, along with others in the neighborhood, has been through 2ft+ of wet heavy snow with only the loss of some 2-3" dia branches. Even then, 6 years later, the damage is not visible anymore. The tree A bigger problem is that even the dwarf versions get big given time and the cold will.

Bamboo could be a possible screen since the space is so narrow.

I was also wondering what the neighbour would think. A tree in that narrow bed and unpleached (very high maintenance pruning strategy requiring access to both sides) would hang over the fence into their yard. It might also take away their light.

What about trellis on top of the fence with vines?

Thanks for the responses. In reply, I can do my own maintenance on whatever I decide without issue, and I do have access to the other side of the fence. Unfortunately, town code prohibits the fence being over 6' (where its at now), so a trellis is out. I did find images in my search of pleached hornbeams, etc and I wouldn't rule that option out. I suppose I could go back to the arborvitae idea, but once I saw pictures of "trees" with a pruned trunk on the bottom, and foliage above the fence line, I immediately fell in love with the idea. What about a "standard" tree, like a hydrangea? If you look in the pictures, the neighbor's actually already have one in their yard on the other side of the fence. My only worry is that it would take a decade for it to reach the height and fullness I'm looking for above the fence line. The one in their yard has been there at least 15 years, and you can see its height. I'm looking for something a bit taller and fuller, and a bit faster growing.

Thanks again for the responses, thoughts and ideas. I'm eager to review more...

Quote "What about a "standard" tree, like a hydrangea?"

Unless there are cultivars that I am unaware, a hydrangea is not a tree, and can not be trimmed to look like a tree.

You may try a Lilac. I believe that can be trimmed so they appear treelike, with the leaves only at the top of the bush.

If you lived further south crepe myrtle could be trained in to a single staked bush. They can grow quite tall. So you may check you nursery and see if some of the newer more cold resist area available in your area.

What about American Holly. (Ilex opaca)? Evergreen and takes better to pruning then pines,.

Not a tree, but rhododendron maximum.

Some form of arborvitae would be the standard solution...just one smaller and more snow resistant then Green Giant.

Thanks again for the replies. The below picture and article is what I was referring to with regards to the Hydrangea tree. The only downfall is they are very slow growing, so I don't think its what I'm looking for. I will look into the American Holly suggestion, thanks!

Article:

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/methods-growing-hydrangea-tree-46718.html

Picture:

Do the neighbours have a wider bed on their side? Would they be prepared to plant something there? Maybe you could contribute to the cost?

Would roses on ropes count as being a fence?

IMHO .... there is not space to plant for the height you want ... without hiring a live in gardener ...

in a similar circumstance .. i used the stuff at the link ..

ken

https://www.google.com/search?q=window+films&biw=940&bih=745&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi_86vG3KrNAhXCcD4KHaWfDlIQ_AUICSgC&dpr=0.9

Hydrangeas are slow growing compared to what? White pines that grow 3 ft a year? I certainly haven't noticed paniculatas to be slow growing. Most people who are interested in the standards buy them that way. It certainly adds to the cost, but you start out with something a good size.

I don't agree with the idea that most Hydrangea paniculata varieties are slow growing. With only basic care mine grew in 4 years from less than a foot to 6 and 8 feet, which is about the maximum height for my 2 varieties. Perhaps your neighbors pruned, or soil is poor, or they didn't water after a month of no rain, or they chose a slow-growing variety. Mine are the fastest shrub I've ever grown. I have Pinky Winky and Quickfire. Check out Limelight for your area since it's narrower by a bit than PW and taller than QF and is also a fast grower. Any of the taller ones are appropriate for training as "trees".

With Buffalo's quantity of snow I wouldn't try either Rhododendron maximum or an evergreen magnolia since the snow on evergreen leaves may not only break branches, but will push branches out into the drive with every snowfall. It's not as though heavy snow is an uncommon event where you are. Both want to be far wider than the space you have available.

There are other choices to grow vines on besides lattice . . . are you allowed wire mesh or tall posts with a chain across the top or a single wire that connects them? Or you could add sort of umbrella-shaped trellises to grow some of the larger clematis on.Here's a link to some photos of one type of trellis that is wider at the top than the bottom, but I've also seen ones that are almost mushroom shaped. I found several by doing a web search for "mushroom shaped trellis".

Have you considered using a combination of narrow evergreens and some deciduous plants so that there is winter interest and some winter screening but also something other than a wall of arborvitae? Or, is there an area immediately under the window that you can plant to create a screen of vines over the window? Even a large planter box set on pavement and planted with scarlet runner beans will give you close-up views of hummingbirds along with flowers and screening.

Wow, thanks for the replies everyone. To answer some of your questions, there is no bed on the other side of the fence, and I don't think the neighbors are interested in planting anything there (the fence is on the property line). Even though the space is small I'd rather keep things on my side anyways, although going over there to prune or maintain something wouldn't be an issue.

I'm not sure about roses on ropes, or the use of tall trellis's as far as the town is concerned, but that is something I can look into.

My statements on Hydrangea's being slow growers was form an article I read online, so I'm somewhat glad to hear you guys disagree. Perhaps these or other "standard" may be an option?

Unfortunately the other side of the driveway extends right up to my house, so planting something under the kitchen windows is not an option.

I'm curious your overall opinion on shrubs that can be pruned into trees, such at the Mock Orange (Pittosporum
‘Variegate’), Christmas Berry (Photinia fraseri
‘Birmingham’), or Carolina Laurel Cherry (Prunus
caroliniana ‘Compact’). Would any of these work, and how hard would they be to maintain?

Another article I found also recommended the Pyrus calleyrana ‘Chanticleer’, and stated the roots wouldn't interfere with the driveway, but I have also read mixed reviews on those too. Any comments?

I do like the idea of using a combination of narrow evergreens and some deciduous plants, which leads me to the question of... which ones?

Thanks Again...

I don't think there are any Pittosporum species which would survive in your zone. (Not sure which species is referred to by P 'Variegate'. there are several species with variegated versions.) And Callery Pears are invasive in many areas of the US.

what about: camellia, burford holly, flowering dogwood, or elaegnus umbellata

I will look into those tonight, thanks for the suggestions!

" I was originally thinking Green Giant Arborvitae's, but I don't think I want something that wide at the base. "

Yes, I've seen people around where I live that have planted Green Giant's too close to their wooden fences, and the trees are busting out tearing apart the fence.

Eleagnus umbellata is rated highly invasive in NY State.

What about a vine-covered pergola or carport that arched up from the fence to the side of the house? It wouldn't have to be an expensive wooden structure, but something you can make with flexible conduits. A vine like sweet autumn clematis would cover it in one season.

"Stick with things that are hardy to at least zone 5. Otherwise, it will be regrowing every other year or so. For some reason most of these suggestions seem to have fallen down a zone 7 rabbit hole. A hydrangea paniculata standard would be fine, as would a standard lilac. Those aren't Syringa vulgaris, but something like Palabin or Miss Kim."

I like this idea, as well as the comment above regarding a mixture of evergreens. I'm thinking some hydrangea paniculate standards, and possibly some standard lilacs, maybe with some arborvitae between them might be a good balance. What is recommended for spacing, and when visiting the nursery to purchase, what should I be looking for with the standards?

Will the arborvitae or standard roots be a concern for the driveway down the road (heaving, etc)?

I don't know of any arborvitae that will stay narrow enough to not damage the fence or vehicles, and I think that the roots may damage the driveway. The H. paniculata won't be an issue. There are fastigate holly such as Sky Pencil, and fastigate yews though you will have to read up on pruning and care to keep them able to deal with your snow load.