UPDATE: We spoke to a contractor about removing this wall and it can be done with a header. The ceiling on the other side is a standard 8ft ceiling which we could separate with the header. only issue we have now is that we want to change the orientation of the dining room. we basically want the dining table to be turned to run perpendicular to the new header. the "dining room" area would now have 2 ceiling heights. Our options are to vault the dining room area to match the living room (half vault) or lower the ceiling. Has anyone seen an open area that is vaulted with the exception of the ceiling over the kitchen?

Will there be glare and sunlight issues from window above tv, it looks like it would be hard to watetv on bright day. How about no middle window and enlarge the two side windows?

Because it wasn't specified, there is an outside chance that @Golfergal216 is Annika Sorenstam, and they will be literally golf trophies. This would make a big difference in lighting shiny brass on a shelf as opposed to taxidermy. With such a grand space, I have some reservations about your proposed lighting: - I do not see any lighting upwards, so the high ceiling will be darker. I do see 2 chandeliers out of the 3 bays, but that may be inconsistent across the room depending on fixtures chosen and extent of faux beams. - I do not know the size and extent of the faux beams, how they will interfere with the lighting, or if they can be utilized for uplighting. - I do not know if a second story overlooks this space, and whether that view is important enough to not have lumenaires in the way. - I do not know if you have a big concern about changing the lamps in the future, e.g. if you don't want to pay an electrician to use a scissor lift to change a 'bulb', then you might want to avoid recessed lights in the flat collar tie portion and not hang the chandeliers above the 16'. - I do not know if this is strictly a trophy room gallery, or has spaces set in certain areas for seating, dining, etc. and how you are lighting those spaces at the human scale. - I do not know the slope of roof, but I would guess with that steep pitch that the gimbals of the recessed housings will not aim directly down, but angled across the way a little bit so anytime you look up you will see glare. - I do not know the size of the taxidermy (e.g. rhino vs muskrat), but they only have a 6" can about 6' or so above them. Not only does a 6" can (BR40 lamp) diffuse the light out more broadly, but when looking up to about 13' where the taxidermy will be mounted it will be shadowed underneath them and you will be missing detail. - I do not see the proposed lighting doing well to accent the tall fireplace, which I assume will have nice stone and some prominent decor. As well the blank walls beside it I assume will have some decor. You don't want the lighting to eminate from differing roof slopes and you will need a specific baffle and lamp style to spread the majority of the fireplace and wall.. ________________________ These are not questions you need to answer here for me. These are things that a lighting designer will think about and you can be prepared to communicate with them. As said already, do not seek a sales consultant, but an actual designer (engineer). This space is unique (and important) enough where the lighting can go terribly wrong. I would probably be using spots, on cables, so the cables "disappear." To get a sense, go to a GAP store and study how their merchandise is lighted. I would not use the ceiling box mounted multi-fixture you show, that is kind of hokey (insert Houzzers saying trophy rooms are hokey to begin with). With all the rods/extensions and varying mounting heights of the boxes they will mess up the intent of the vault and it's openess. If you are under the gun, have the electrician determine the circuits and run homeruns, and come back when you have a real lighting plan, even if you have to pay extra for their time.

You can't make the room cozier by putting the TV over the stone fireplace. So give up on that idea. Beverly has some great visuals that show how to make the scale of the room seem more friendly. Open concept, especially with tall ceilings, does make a room noisy and visually over stimulating in some cases. Here are some ways to make the space cozier: --Keep the sectional for the rest of your family. Kids usually love them. Move the sectional back a foot. Then get a womb chair on a swivel to put across from the sectional over by the window. That will be your own personal chair. Put a floor lamp behind it for reading. This will cast light down on "your" chair and "your" space. This is a knockoff of the famous "egg" chair by Arne Jacobsen. --You might also do a search for modern wing chairs. But make sure to add a swivel so you can watch TV, turn it to look out the window, or just turn it to read, check your phone, and so on. Here's a tall back, deep modern wing chair from Crate and Barrel--in that cozy boucle fabric. Add a personal "blankie" as needed. I don't have OCD, but I think open concept design and ridiculously energy sucking high ceilings aren't for people who like peace and quiet in their homes--too much noise, too much, too little privacy. --Add more layered lighting to the room and stop turning on the overheads. Strategically place table and floor lighting of different heights in zones around the living room area. At nighttime this will light up zones instead of the entire space, which is too bright for many people. Here's a Houzz article on how to layer lighting: https://www.houzz.com/magazine/a-beginners-guide-to-lighting-in-layers-stsetivw-vs~60963736# Here's another Houzz article on how to create zones in a big, open space: https://www.houzz.com.au/magazine/16-clever-ways-to-create-zones-in-open-plan-spaces-stsetivw-vs~27282063 I don't think you need to get a wood ceiling, though do bring down the drop rod and get a new, interesting fan. Find the best possible swivel chair and think strategically about lighting the space closer to ground level. And no TV over fireplace!