Hello, Macattack! There's a certain sense of reciprocity to the design forum. To get one party started, one must first provide something. If this is in a query, some background information, initial thoughts, preferences, etc. etc. etc. can help get the ball rollin'. It's generally easier for people to respond to a specific question/request. However, I shall try to get things started by stating what I think about what you have. (This illustrates my previous point, as what people can provide with little information is what they personally think, which may or may not be applicable in your situation). One issue I find with most people's ponds is that they use rock along the edges. Actually, that is not the issue. The issue is that the rock seems out-of-place, so they add more rock. Eventually, lots of rock surrounds the pond and it seems even MORE out-of-place. Another issue I find common is that ponds are often put in for pond's sake, meaning that they often have little relation to the context in which they are placed. They're there so that the homeowner now has a pond, as opposed to them being there to form a part of a larger landscape. This supplements the first issue which I pointed out above. Last but not least (and this relates to both points), people often don't place waterfalls in the proper, topographical context. As in your case, the waterfall is built up on its own miniature hill which is very incongruous to the surrounding lay of the land. (They've been given other names on this forum, but we'll avoid that to maintain the civility). The stream runs down a nice slope, but the waterfall still seems a little abrupt. Ok, I've only offered criticism so far. However, this is to be constructive, and if you don't agree with any of my points, feel free to question my statements. That being said, I'll offer my suggestion. Look at the bigger picture. As I mentioned, it looks like you have a nice slope down your yard. It may be worth considering re-doing the waterfall/stream (and I do know that this is a lot of work) so that the waterfall "cuts into" the slope" as if it's been there for a millenia and has been eating its way through the hill. An alternative is to raise the landscaping up to match the waterfall by providing taller elements (either raising up the ground level, or by shrubs, etc) to conceal the fact that the waterfall has "sides" to it and to make it feel as if it's part of a larger slope/hill/thing, so it's less of an individual element standing out. How does the rest of the landscaping of the yard work? How can you apply that to the pond? Generally, I would say to bring up the vegetation as close to the edges of the pond to soften its starkness and to integrate it with the rest of the yard, but how you should do it depends on what the rest of the yard is like. One final comment/question: why the peastone/round river rock? The stone edging on the pond itself is very nicely done, and I think it would stand out more (in a good way!) without the contrasting river rock/peastone around it. Based on that, I would suggest that you try laying the flatter stone in the stream as opposed to lining it with the peastone/river rock. Your skill for arranging it is quite obvious, and I think it would be a lot more dramatic and natural-looking if you used the same stone for edging on the stream. Hopefully this helps get you thinking! -Audric

I personally think it looks great the way it is. I added moss around mine in between the rocks and set down drift woods with moss on them since it's shade.

Rectangular pools are semi-formal to formal. I think they are best outlined in brick or concrete edging, and I would replace the wide slate(?) you have now with narrower concrete capstones. Lay the slate elsewhere on sand for a sitting area. If you have not already cleaned the bottom of this pond you should do so. It does not have to be perfect, but you should remove any leaves and as much gunk from the bottom as possible. You should try to remove the bricks and stones as well as the hostas from the area between the pool and the short wall. You can store the hostas in pots in the shade until you can replant them, or plant them where they might be happier. I agree that a trellis against this wall is a good idea. Install several posts in front of the wall and attach trellis or lath strips to the posts. Add lots of compost to the soil there and plant a native Wisteria frutescens or Lonicera sempervirens. Pool plants are planted in heavier soils (don't add compost as it will foul the water) in pots that sit either on the bottom or on blocks or crates to lift them closer to the surface. Lilies do better in still water so put them on the opposite end from the frog fountain. Nymphaea odorata is the native species, but there are lots of hybrids and cultivars in white, yellow, pink and red. Marginals should be set with the soil level near the water's surface. There are low growers such as Myosotis scorpioides and Mimulus luteus, and taller Iris pseudacorus and Pontederia cordata. The area behind the frog fountain should have a dwarf evergreen. Here is one list of those. The above are what you need to do to fix the water garden. Later, when you have time, consider turning the area that already collects rainwater into a rain garden. A rain garden is not a bog garden; the plants used can take short term inundation to dry periods, whereas bog plants require constantly moist soil. Many garden plants will work in a rain garden. Here is a list of some. To avoid hiding the water garden I would use low growing plants only. Remove some soil using it to raise the ground level elsewhere as needed. Add lots of compost to the remaining soil making sure the area remains low. Then plant those species that prefer moist soil in the lowest spot and plants that tolerate drier soil around the edges. Runoff will fill the depression during heavy or extended rain but should soak in within 24 to 36 hours if your drainage is good. Remember that these and other plantings should not overwhelm the water garden. P.S. Here is one list of Native Species for Maryland.

Have you considered how you want garden to feel and function: ie: bushes for year long greenery, height variations, privacy, friendly to nature, etc. or have you decided on the above and just want a few more ideas. Either way, I’d visit a nursery to help. Also consider a pathway that makes a nice connection to garden. (We purchased granite and it was easy and inexpensive to lay.) Imagine below, but with a deck. If interested in a more natural garden; (we have a similar deck and added curved beds in front and on side (included some large rocks). Planted with the environment in mind and the desire to watch it change from spring to fall. - Herbs can be enjoyed all summer, and our lilac bush provides welcoming blooms to bring inside in early spring. We have perennials that bees (especially due to severe decline) and hummingbirds benefit from (see link below if interested). Nasturtiums attract butterflies and are edible. - Grasses and hostas are good choices for their need for less water and a miniature fir tree can provide added privacy. - We have a bird bath and during hot summer days it is a life saver I believe. We get so many benefits from our garden and thought you might like to as well. https://naturebring.com/best-flowers-bees-butterfly-garden-pollinator-garden/