We have evaluated the some of the benefits and construction issues of the pipe proposal. Now I would suggest advertaddy investigate the possibility of surface drainage. Some reasonably accurate elevation data will be needed to prove the viability. To do what I propose, he will need some materials; a few 2ft stakes, a nylon string line, and a string level. A string level is not a precision instrument and I am not fond of their use where accuracy is needed. But for short distances, and for this case particularly, I think the careful use of a string level will be sufficient. Rather than collect useful data over the whole of the project area, this preliminary study will be concentrated on only the critical grade points. In the graphic above I show the location of a string line that can be used to gather the information needed. Begin at point C by locating a space between fence boards that aligns with the back 6 inches of the patio. At the space between boards drive a wood screw about 1ft above ground level. Tie on a string line and stretch it out toward point B. Select a location for a stake at point "B such that the string passes over the patio near the back edge and also aligns with the jog in the house as shown. Attach the string level at the mid point between B and C. Stretch the string tight and tie to stake B with a loop. Adjust the string height at stake B so that the string level indicates the string is level. Install stakes at A and D. Extend string lines to the end stakes in a like manner with all lines at the same level. Measure the horizontal distance for each line segment. Begin at stake A. Measure the ground to string distance. Move 5 ft down the line toward B and take another measurement. Continue this process until you are near B. Begin anew at B and start the 5 ft intervals from there. Do the same at C and make a last measurement at D Record the measurements in this fashion A-? +5-? +10-? B-? +5 -? +10 -? +15 -? To correct the details of the base map, take measurements as shown in blue.

Diana, There are a number of ways to address your question. Personally, I do not find much wrong with just letting the rain percolate into the soil surface. I realize that is not always possible and/or desirable. Although it is from a thread I created several years ago, I am going to include a photo of a low tech approach that I used to capture and transfer rain from my gutterless house into a rain garden. Particularly since you do not have a basement, this same setup should work quite well to transfer and disperse water as you describe. I think this should work quite well if placed beneath a dry stream bed. In this photo, I used 4-inch perforated plastic drain tile. At the time, I used it because that is what I had left over from another project. It is working quite well after three years of use. However, on similar, subsequent projects, I have begun to use the rigid, perforated drain pipe after some discussions on this forum about the technical issues of each type. The cost difference between the two is small. The argument was that, over time, the corrugations in the bottom of the flexible drain pipe will fill with sediment. Quite frankly, IÂm not real sure that I always buy that argument. Most of the applications of flexible drain tile are to extract excessive ground water from an area. In that scenario, water (along with potential sediment) is flowing into the pipe. However, in your case, clean roof water is flowing out of the pipe perforations. In the end, this may just be a case of splitting hairs. If your installation involves a lot of curves, you would wind up choosing the flexible pipe anyway. As to depth of trench: Of course, have your utilities marked out (a free service) before you begin any digging. For the DIYer, I would suggest just digging a full spade depth  this isnÂt rocket science. In my area, I know that if I bury the hollow drainage pipe this deep, I can still maintain solid growth of bluegrass lawn over it. Anything shallower and browned-out grass belies what lies below in the dry summer. Of course, this rough measurement may have to be adjusted to insure maintaining a slope, where needed. However, drainage slope really isnÂt that much of a critical issue when you are dispersing (not transferring) water. In fact, much like a septic system, you may actually want terminal dispersal areas level. IronBelly

I recently had a 3 foot tall 120 long retaining block retaining wall covered with smooth stucco installed on 2 sides of my back yard and I believe the french drain is faulty. When I tested the surface drains water begins to come out of the bottom of the wall. I think the problem is that the surface drains were tied into the french drains which I'm not sure is correct. Does anyone know if this is correct or not and what I should do. I thought the idea behind the french drain behind the wall was to keep water away from the wall to avoid damage. The bottom of the wall seems like it is going to be forever wet. thank you.

I am splotching a (Sherwin Wm's mixed) sample of F&B's French Grey, right now in my entry. It looks good but I need more light and maybe a bit of sunshine tomorrow to see for sure. I wanted something more grey or more brown, but keep striking out with this not-too-light entry. RH's Flax looks amazing, but may be too dark. One of my top contenders was F&B Mouse's Back. I was sold on that, but my DD keeps saying it's too much like the Baby Turtle in the LR and the Northampton Putty in the DR, both of which are adjoining the entry. However, I MUST show you guys a blog where they painted the bottom cabinets in the Mouse's Back! I wondered if that is a look that might work for Tammy? Red Here is a link that might be useful: Blog showing Mouse's Back on bottom kitchen cabinets...so pretty!