No meeting with cabinet guy
7 years ago
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- 7 years agolast modified: 7 years ago
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Foating cabinets...or not?
Comments (10)The toe kick in your drawing is small. A small toekick is about as much a technical challenge as doing floating, which requires a steel frame. A steel frame is also good WITH a toe kick. With a toekick they still have to attach the cabinets well, and a steel frame is a big help in getting this done well and done right. A steel frame is good. It's not a challenge. A steel frame is not just a two-dimensional object. It needs a "return" that goes up, to bolt onto studs higher up. Space has to be accounted for. Some form of diagonal has to be there. Depending, it might not be best if it's only bolted to studs. A little overkill or extra protection is good too: it's overall strongest and most reliable when some thin strips of steel descend down the wall and touch the floor. This is if something at floor level acts as a pinpoint support or backstop. Then most or all of the weight is held by the floor and the work required of the screws in the studs is to prevent the stuff from falling forward. Next, if small diagonal braces go from legs to somewhere in the middle of the span, so much the better. Turnbuckles can be welded into these diagonals. One day it might happen that a couple of wild people put their entire weight on the counter. Or many. Dancing and otherwise moving. It could happen. So, steel and good diagonals. I might make it an ultrabig toe kick, with an ultrasmall space covered, made of e.g. just a panel of acrylic hiding a couple necessary feet and any other thing you have that crosses that space, like wiring or cabling. In my bathrooms and kitchen have floating and not floating. I have some with brushed stainless legs and others with a toe kick. Floating lets your roomba have more room to ba. Under cabinets, thin tube T4's give you continuous backlighting; LED's give you a series of pinpoints. I like hidden T4 fluorescents, both 2700 and 3200 colors. Put one of each parallel to each other continuously and you have lighting which nobody can figure out and everybody likes. To achieve the look you are going for, your architect has specified you need 3/4" i.e. 2cm ; to which I agree. This has to be quartz not concrete. (Ask around if anyone will make a 3/4" in concrete.) To achieve the look you are going for, the counters need return pieces. Four return pieces is about $1K in materials. It requires the installers to measure for them on the day they install the counters, and then to come back a second time. That's no big deal. Don't let them tell you it's too much hassle. On the two sides of the kitchen island that don't have returns, I would break the architect-defined tightness by having much more overhang. You don't need four feet of depth in cabinets under the island so it's wasted, and it impedes knees. If you ever install those automatic drawer-openers, you want to have a small overhang at the side of the cooktop and sink so that you aren't bumping into your drawer fronts when you stand at the counter. With a return piece, an overhang continues down to the floor. I have one with a reverse hollywood edge (inside bevel). It defines the space inside. Reverse bevel is a good way to compensate for all the various constraints when you are going for this look. Reverse bevel is more work. Don't let them tell you it's too much hassle. Since the fabricator needs to be sure he has two guys on hand because they need to turn the slab over once when cutting and polishing, he may be worried that they won't cooperate and something could happen. He just needs to have two employees who get along well together, and they have to be there on the same day and work together for a few minutes. It's no big deal. It was the reason why I came across a lot of resistance to the idea of a reverse bevel. Make the big wall cabinet a few inches deeper: it's better for the equipment that is to go in there, and it makes the space more ergonomically efficient. Right now it's too far from the counter. The counter that runs along the wall makes a pinch point at the door. Don't think you need a 90 degree angle there because of esthetics or architectural consistency. You can angle the end (cut off a triangle), or round it out. It reduces your options for the end cabinet. It's a good place for a big overhang. Hth....See MoreStruggling with kitchen layout ...
Comments (24)Carol, I too struggled with furniture placement. A recent thread helped me figure out how to address it by moving the fireplace to the corner ( Fireplace Location Thread ). Then, I got on the Bassett website (something I just stumbled across) and came up with this arrangement for the furniture ... which I think is close. However, I think in reality, I can pull the loveseat a little left and forward to allow more walking space to the MBR as you are suggesting, palimpsest *ignore the extra pieces of furniture I scooted over to the side while I was fooling around with this ... :). As for the door from the MBR to the porch ... yes, we have been discussing it from the beginning. As you suggested lavender lass .. the furniture placement is one consideration; our bedroom furniture is pretty massive. In addition, although the initial plan is to screen that porch (we're on the same page again, lavender lass!), we're also considering some day turning it into a sun room. So we question if we will want the door there in that case ... ??? Still being discussed ... I appreciate all the comments and encouragement. The house has totally been designed with ease of movement and retirement living in mind. We want to be able to entertain, and also keep an eye on each other fairly easily ... ;) I think once I've got this kitchen figured out, we'll have knocked out all the questions I still had floating around in my head in regard to the design. And I have all you and many other wonderful, creative, generous GW'ers to thank!!! Lezli...See MoreMeeting cabinet guy tomorrow...and had last minute idea!
Comments (12)I am trying restricting myself to technical comments. The overhang for seating isn't controlled by the depth of the stools - its how much room needs to exist underneath for peoples knees. A bar height overhang needs 12" clear underneath the overhang(before you get to the pony wall). A counter height overhang is supposed to have 15" clear before the back of the cabinets or wall-let. People cheat this all the time by 2 or three inches. If you try to use less, even kids don't fit. You have omitted the wall that shows next to the ref in the 3-d view of the second drawing when you did the floor plan. A wall takes up to to 3 times the width of a ref panel - allow 5 to 6 inches for the depth of a "real wall" and allow 2-3 inches for a wall with studs turned sideways. Allow 1.5 inches for a ref panel. Most cabinet lines void the warranty if you can't attach both sides... In the second one, really think about including the filler on the garage side of the ref. The ref handles need more space on the sides for the doors to open to 90 degrees. This is true for just about all refs. In an sxs, you pretty want the doors to be able to open to 110 degrees to be able to open the drawers. Since the crowded part would be the freezer in an sxs, you can certainly live with pulling the entire unit forward when you want to clean it. Landing space for an sxs OR a french door is behind the ref. Landing space for a bottom freezer is to the side opposite the hinges. Well, this is on the border between technical and layout. In the second one, push the dishwasher to one edge or the other and consolidate all the cabinet space into the other side. Symmetry OF the cabinets isn't very important here - all three sides are seen and the "inside the kitchen" view of the cabinets won't actually be symmetrical - the sink will never end up in exactly the right place as seen from that vantage and it will look goofy from the other two....See MoreHelp! Is GE Profile Spacemaker II microwave a good choice?
Comments (33)Believe it or not, four years later the PEM31 is still the only microwave of this size around. Here is my situation, small'ish kitchen with no built in microwave currently. To maximize counter space I am considering taking down my old vent hood over my stove and mounting this microwave in it's place. I can't place a normal OTR microwave over my stove because the cabinet above the stove is too low and would place the bottom of the microwave too close to the cooktop. I really only have the 12 inch height to work with. Mounting this microwave under any other existing cabinets isn't really workable because my cabinets are mounted 16 inches above the counters, leaving only 4 inches from bottom of microwave to counter which is unusable. So, has anyone mounted this microwave above the stove or placed it on a shelf above the stove? If so, can you please post pictures.I am not that concerned about losing the vent hood as I rarely use it anyway. Thanks!...See More- 7 years agolast modified: 7 years ago
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