It's pine bark, but it's hard to say by the picture if the size of the bark is appropriate. It looks like it's quite large. If you read the link Jodi left for you upthread, you probably realize that particle size and distribution is very important to how a container soil performs. Here is something I wrote to illustrate the importance of particle size/distribution: Obviously, I think the grower's soil choice when establishing a planting for the long term is the most important decision he/she will make. There is no question that the roots are the heart of the plant, and plant vitality is inextricably linked in a hard lock-up with root vitality. In order to get the best from your plants, you absolutely must have happy roots. If you start with a water-retentive medium, you cannot improve it's aeration or drainage characteristics by adding larger particulates. Sand, perlite, Turface, calcined DE ...... none of them will work. To visualize why sand and perlite can't change drainage/aeration, think of how well a pot full of BBs would drain (perlite), then think of how poorly a pot full of pudding would drain (bagged soil). Even mixing the pudding and perlite/BBs together 1:1 in a third pot yields a mix that retains the drainage characteristics and PWT height of the pudding. It's only after the perlite become the largest fraction of the mix (60-75%) that drainage & PWT height begins to improve. At that point, you're growing in perlite amended with a little potting soil. You cannot add coarse material to fine material and improve drainage or the ht of the PWT. Use the same example as above & replace the pudding with play sand or peat moss - same results. The benefit in adding perlite to heavy soils doesn't come from the fact that they drain better. The fine peat or pudding particles simply 'fill in' around the perlite, so drainage & the ht of the PWT remains the same. All perlite does in heavy soils is occupy space that would otherwise be full of water. Perlite simply reduces the amount of water a soil is capable of holding because it is not internally porous. IOW - all it does is take up space. If you want to profit from a soil that offers superior drainage and aeration, you need to build it into the soil from the start, by ensuring that the soil is primarily comprised of particles much larger than those in peat/compost/coir, which is why the recipes I suggest as starting points all direct readers to START with the foremost fraction of the soil being large particles, to ensure excellent aeration. From there, if you choose, you can add an appropriate volume of finer particles to increase water retention. You do not have that option with a soil that is already extremely water-retentive right out of the bag. I fully understand that many are happy with the results they get when using commercially prepared soils, and I'm not trying to get anyone to change anything. My intent is to make sure that those who are having trouble with issues related to soil, understand why the issues occur, that there are options, and what they are. Many use their current potting soils (like MG or used soils as a smaller fraction of a new media they put together specifically to improve drainage & aeration, so yes - you CAN use some of the soil you have as a fraction of a new soil, but keep in mind that you aren't going to rid yourself of the drainage/aeration and high PWT issues problems unless your soil is weighted heavily toward larger particles than your current soil is currently comprised of. When you add a little extra perlite and/or pine bark to a peat-based soil, you don't change the drainage characteristics, the height of the PWT, or aeration. You DO decrease the total volume of water the soil CAN hold, and that IS a plus, but that's about all you really accomplish. Add a LOT of (appropriate size) bark and perlite = job done. The physics of how water behaves in container soils doesn't change because someone might assure you it does. As surely as the cow is barred from jumping over the moon by the law of gravity, soils are bound by physical laws to exhibit rather specific and predictable characteristics based on their particle size and distribution (enter the pudding analogy into evidence). If you choose not to go with a soil that has a considerable fraction of larger particles, there are ways to help you deal with excess water retention when it occurs. There is a lot of good information about dealing with water retention if you follow the embedded link. When you get to where you're deciding about how you want to proceed with your soil, we can talk more specifically about tailoring a plan that best supports your methodology. Take care. Al

To be honest, I have only done the theory part of this. Since the first post, I have spent every night researching the different methods of in vitro propagation. So while I have no real world experience, I have done tons & TONS of research & gotten lots of tips & tricks from those who are experts. So I am more than happy to pass on that knowledge, but just remember I myself have not successfully made these things happen. First, I think that using the Keiki Pro method will probably just work on plants like Phals & Oncidiums that have the nodes at the segments of the stems. Vandas (at least those in my collection) do not have those nodes at the segments. Lotte sent me a photo of Chiloschista that they removed the node coverings & placed into the sterile medium. I am planning to experiment with both the sphagnum moss & sterile in vitro methods when I eventually get my Chilos to bloom. I have really taken an interest in Meristem propagation of my Vandas, That involves removing root tips or shoot tips, placing them in a media with hormones that stimulate multiplication of the callus cells. These masses of PLBs (protocom like bodies) are then divides & placed into other flasks where they are placed on a medium that will allow for root development. I have read that meristemmed orchids do not necessarily mature quicker than seed propagated plants, but you can produce carbon copies of the adult plant much more quickly with this method! I have also read that Phals. will be ready for first blooming within a year of coming out of the flask when you use the in vitro node method! Again, I have not done these things myself, so I would encourage you to spend some time on the web or at the library reading about the methods available to you! As for Super Thrive. It is not a hormone; it is a concentration of vitamins that helps to make your plant healthier. It will not stimulate Keikis to grow like one of the hormone products (kind of like Centrum. It is a multivitamin that gives your body a boost, but it will not remove the blemishes from your hand. You need special product that has been designed to remove the blemish.) Get the Keiki Pro, it is an awesome product! Much better than the powder stuff! I hope this has answered your questions, if not, let me know... I just got back in from a run & my mind is not all here just yet =0) -Ray-

Ken: Well, since the diagnosis even mentioned one and it was because I took them a sickly plant, I assumed it was a bad one. They didn't list the good microorganisms in the soil. I believe it was the B strain if I can recall correctly. I don't recall if they gave ANY recommendations. They MIGHT have mentioned crop rotation. But since I had already been doing this, I researched a tad and found out that solarization might be effective. Kimmsr: I assumed the theory is that after ridding of the bad ones, building the soil again with OM, the good microherd would flourish and the bad could be held at bay as long as crop rotation, non-infected seedlings and seeds, and proper garden sanitation were continued. Kevin

Hydroponic growers propagate by direct seeding, cloning (tissue culture, cuttings), & using soil grown plants. A discussion follows. SEED PROPAGATION Direct seeding can be used for vegetable propagation. Media used for seed propagation are: Peat plugs: Condensed sphagnum held together by a net. Perlite Rockwool cubes: If seeds do not need light to sprout sow & cover the cube surface with rockwool strands. Cubes stay with the plant throughout its life. Vermiculite Combination mixtures: Peat is too wet for seed growth so it is mixed with vermiculite for drainage. A mixture of 1 part each peat, vermiculite & perlite may also be used. Baggie method: Place seeds in a moist paper towel, coffee filter, or peat, & put in a baggie. Place in a warm place & transplant when sprouting occurs. Seed growing tips: Light: Seeds germinate in light or dark depending on the seed. Ideally grow lights, hung 2-4" above plants are on 24 hours daily until true leaves (second set of leaves) are seen; then 18 hours daily. Temperature: Usually 75-85F (20-25 C) depending on the seed. Bottom heat such as an incubator, heating mat, or heating cable may be used. Nutrient: Seeds need no nutrient to sprout since they have nutrition in the seed coat. Use 1/2 strength nutrient once true leaves appear. In general flush every 2-3 hours. Increase nutrient strength if the leaves turn yellow & decrease it if they turn brown. Transplanting: Seeds are transplanted once roots develop as is indicated by fully expanded true leaves, visible roots, or feeling stem resistance with gentle tugging. Troubleshooting tips Non germinating seeds may be due to: Seeds need pre-treatment (scarification, stratification). Dry media Old, improperly stored, or diseased seeds (discolored shriveled, cracked, moldy seeds). Seeds need a longer germination time. Improper media, system, or sprouting technique. Seed variety not ideal for hydroponic growing. Mixing acid & alkaline seeds. Seed coat has germination inhibitors that were not removed (i.e. palm). The media needed an additive (i.e., orchids & special fungi). Moldy seedlings: Some seeds (i.e., forage) may need fungal treatment before sowing. A black stem & wilting indicates damping off. Media should have good drainage; a sphagnum based media may prevent this. Long thin seedlings: Due to poor light, high temperature, excess nutrient. If using fluorescent lights change to grow lights. TISSUE CULTURE Tissue culture involves taking small plant parts (buds, nodes, leaf, or roots), & growing them in containers with an agar based nutrient. Sterile technique & specialized equipment are used, since contamination can cause other things will grow in the media. CUTTING PROPAGATION Cutting propagation involves cutting part of a plant & rooting it. Media used for cuttings include perlite, peat plugs, & rockwool cubes. Aeroponic systems use no media but roots cuttings quickly. Cutting propagation tips Nutrient: Nutrient should be 1/2-1/3 concentration. Light: 18 hours daily. Temperature depends on the plant usually 72-74 F (22-23°C). Troubleshooting cuttings: Wilting: Caused by bacteria or other contamination, or the roots being unable to keep up with the water lost from the leaves (transpiration). Wilting can damage leaves or kill the cutting. Tips to decrease wilting are: Use a rooting hormone. Fungicides. Remove large & bottom leaves. Transplant late afternoon. Decrease light intensity. Use a humidity dome & mist leaves frequently. Remove growing tips. Decrease the nutrient concentration. If too strong the plant tries to equalize the salt concentration inside and outside the roots. The plant releases water from its tissues to dilute nutrients surrounding the root; thus causing wilting. Consider using willow water, aspirin, or salicylic acid. Increase root oxygen with a pump or hydrogen peroxide. The cutting was taken at the wrong time. Proper times should be looked up. Examples are softwood (spring), semi-hardwood (summer), hardwood (fall), leaf (early summer), & root (fall). If a hardwood cutting does not root take a heel or mallet cutting. Mallet & heel cuttings are taken from a cutting with a cross section at the base. A heel cutting looks like an arrow; a triangle of wood is cut at the base. A mallet cutting, or upside down "T" cut, involves cutting the top of the T at the base of the cutting. Wounding (notching the cutting bottom) can be made before rooting hormone treatment. A rotting root cutting indicates too much moisture. STARTING SOIL GROWN PLANTS Soil based seedlings or plants can be transplanted to a hydroponic medium. There is a risk of introducing pests and disease, however. To transplant, gently remove root soil & rinse with warm water. Soak 24 hours & place in the hydroponic medium or system. A hormone or vitamin supplement can be added to the water. © 2004 Baci