How to tell which is weed and which is seedling?
7 years ago
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Comments (7)
- 7 years ago
- 7 years ago
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how do i decide which tomato seedlings to plant?
Comments (10)Leira, I made the switch to thinning (or sometimes breaking out the multiples from the cell and potting up at the cotyledon stage if I am running low on seed) after noticing that the ones that I gave more room and less competition to grew bigger faster. They also seemed to adapt to the garden faster. Maybe try a comparison. I think the conditions in their pots tend to stay more stable too, instead of rapidly swinging from wet to dry to wet to dry again as seemed to be the case with large plants sharing a tiny bit of soil. But I also know from working in a garden center that tomatoes are tough and can survive in crowded four packs for a while, even if it isn't optimal. So if space is a serious issue, then less than optimal growth is good enough as long as you get plants you can put out and get tomatoes from. I just thought that implicit in the question of "how do you choose which to pot up" was the question of when do you choose to pot up. Cheers!...See MoreWhich weed this this and how to treat
Comments (2)Looks to me like creeping Charlie. Buy cco....clover,cheekweed and oxalis. Hit it twice a week apart. Gone...See MoreHow to tell which Hosta is which
Comments (12)Ken suggested someone with the labels written in. Click the link, and there you go. If it doesn't work, let me know. I'll also try pasting a different one right in here, which you can click on to see larger. You write on the photos with any graphics program, like Microsoft Paint (included in Windows for free), Paint Shop Pro, or Photoshop, or many others. The tool for it is usually a button marked with a big "A" (for alphabet, I guess). You know what? This photo is almost depressing! The 'Pacific Blue Edger' isn't -- it's actually 'Blue Cadet.' The mystery hosta up and died on me; never did find out what it was, came in a grab bag from some catalog vendor. But the good news is the 'Winfield Blue' grew up healthy and strong, and so did the fern, which I have divided twice since 2005. The white tags you see are 1" slats from a plastic window blind bought at Walmart for $4, with labels from my printer covered with clear packing tape. They've lasted five years. Only problem is, all winter, the hosta garden looks like a mouse graveyard. I'd buy them brown instead of beige next time. As Ken says: photograph, and label, and draw maps. All three....See MoreWhich trees are 'weed' trees?
Comments (41)Another book you might enjoy is Reading the Forested Landscape, by Tom Wessels. I'd want to add Beeches and American Chestnuts just cause they're lovely. Such wonderful species you have. The warmer temps we've been having are hard on the Sugar Maples here. They are so graceful and magnificent in the fall with their color, and their sweet scent in the spring. They don't seem to annoy other trees and plants, growing hard by, but the roots are in a woodsy spot covered with leaf litter, not under a lawn where there's more of a struggle for resources. The Osage Orange used to be used as fence posts, as it takes them years to rot [15, I think]. People used to grub them out[dig ]to use. Black walnut can be a strong allergen, although I hear it's a handsome tree. The idea of leaving most of the woods to grow would give you a chance to observe which are pioneer species [like tulip trees]and which are coming into their own now. What do you mean by land management exactly? Do you mean as a woodlot, for firewood, for hardwoods, for furniture? Since it'll be another 50 or 75 years or more before the trees are good sized, you might as well grow it for enjoyment. It's most efficient in terms of growth, & production of oxygen, the way it is. Forests have been working out growing, competing for sun, pulling carbon atoms out of the air, making food, cooperating with bugs and animals, for millions of years. The pioneer species slow down, as the big guys crowd them out. You get to watch a miracle in progress. Don't be afraid to make your mark and influence things, but you don't have to. If you have shaggy edges, you might want to add some native ornamentals, by the road. One thing, sometimes, cutting back along an edge in a way that exposes quite tall skinny trunks, without the protection of buffer trees of an intermediate height, can expose them to wind damage. Good luck !...See More- 7 years ago
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- 7 years agolast modified: 7 years ago
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