Mineral spirits is a (rather weak) solvent for wax. The normal rules of cleaning are TACT: - Time (dwell time) - Agitation (rubbing, in this case) - Chemical (using the right solvent) - Temperature (ambient or solution temperature) If you look at any cleaning you do (washing machine, dish washer, personal shower, car wash, carpet cleaning, etc.) you will see these in action. Generally speaking, when one of these is decreased, you need to increase one or more of the others to get the same cleaning result. So, yes, time will help. Removing wax does take a lot of work, and frequent turning or replacing of towels so you don't just smear it around. But it is also possible you are using the wrong solvent. Have you tried cleaning with detergent and water first. MS is a non-polar solvent and is good for non-polar stains (wax, ink, oils, etc.) Water is a polar solvent and is good for polar stains (dirt, smoke, body oils, foods and beverages.) When I do furniture cleaning, I start with Dawn and water and many times that's all I need. I use a strong alkaline cleaner if there is a lot of soot or tobacco smoke. Silicone oil in Pledge is inert, so I'm not sure anything removes it. Even stripping furniture and rinsing with strong solvents like acetone will leave silicone oil. I think the linked article is just what you need. Here is a link that might be useful: saving the finish

Spirit for the terms of this discussion means alcohol, AKA Methylated Spirit in the UK. Water-based dyes can be mixed in water. Alcohol dye is extremely fast-acting. I used it until I came upon another dye medium, namely Solar-Lux brand. The Solar Lux Reducer (a proprietary solvent) can be used to thin and mix various aniline dyes. I can use the liquid Solar Lux dyes, and supplement them with powdered dyes. The Reducer has very awesome drying characteristics and will allow some working time far beyond just alcohol. I have never tried water-based because I understand that grain-raising issues ensue. I am unsure whether you can use either type of dye to alter the colors of your existing woodwork; dye is mainly intended to be applied to clean unfinished wood. More likely you would want to apply a toner of some kind. This could be in the form of a tinted sprayed-on lacquer, a gel stain, a glaze, or a colored varnish. Any of the above can be applied over already-finished woodwork, but the normal preparations (clean, dewaxed, degreased, sanded) apply. Casey

To stain pine evenly, a conditioner is necessary---pine has different grains and grain densities causing stain to often blotch. A simple conditioner is a one pound cut of shellac. That is done by mixing one pound of shellac flakes in one gallon of alcohol and letting the flakes totally dissolve. That mixture is then applied in one coat on the pine. The stain will still work, although less darkly. There is no way to reduce the 'knotty' effect of pine---knots will even show through primer and paint unless several coats of each are applied and sanded. Any stain is simply going to make the pine change colors---and look like stained pine. Which is not a bad thing as long as stained pine is the desired effect. To effectively paint pine and cover the grain/knots to hide them, I apply three coats of primer---I use Zinsser BIN or Bullseye123---sanding between each coat. Then as many coats of paint as needed. There is one type of paint that covers pine grain/knots well---oil based alkyd enamel---two coats over just one or two coats of primer will hide the grain/knots. But that stuff is expensive and very difficult to apply evenly.

Whew! I'm glad this thread got back on track. There is a lot of helpful info here. I have acquired a couple of samples of both. I really, really, like the look of the Virginia Mist (not the one that is also called Jet Mist) honed, but the granite place is telling me it will definitely stain in its honed version and suggested leathered, which I don't love. "ngcurt" mentioned "antiqued" Virginia Mist. I have never heard of antiqued. What is that? I have played with the samples of soapstone from Alberene and went to the quarry to choose a slab, but I haven't pulled the trigger yet. I can definitely scratch it all up with my fingernail and dent the end with a pot easily. However, I have yet to permanently stain it with anything acidic while ketchup and lemon juice for 30 min barely etched the granite surfaces. I left marks all over the granite with a key and have yet to get them off, even with suggested acetone... Oil definitely sits on the soapstone, but I haven't tried Simple Green as "athome inva" mentioned. Never thought of that. It seems like an easy solution. The quarry said to use denatured alcohol. Didn't happen to have that around. I'm surprised yours darkened so quickly. I think I would like that. But Alberene had a piece in their office that was used to create a "cabinet" and its top. The unoiled cabinet was still very light while the waxed top was very dark. I wonder if they are now quarrying a different vein than what you have? It is all quite beautiful. After speaking to the granite fabricator, I am now a bit more nervous about trying the granite than the soapstone because I have no idea how I would remove stains from granite. I had thought it was pretty indestructible. "Sabrina Alfa Interiors"--Are you saying that the drawback to black honed granite is really just the fingerprints? I think I could live with fingerprints as long as the stone and the finish itself is not actually damaged. Also, there is the leathered version of AB that really doesn't show anything. It looks like cheap Formica, but it seems to be extremely durable. The black is beautiful. Any thoughts? For that matter, there is a leathered "Virginia Mist," too. Also looks like cheap Formica, but it would be durable and would probably hide a lot. Thank you guys so much for all the input. Of course, I will still accept more of it. :) It seems there are pros and cons to both, so I almost feel like flipping a coin or choosing based on price.