Looks like you have a classic Malsi. I would not recommend buying Malsi's (department store knock off bonsai) as they are poorly pruned and taken care of and are usually on their way out before you even bring them home. I would HIGHLY recommend removing the moss and the glued on rocks as these can cause a number of problems. the rocks keep the water not only from being evenly absorbed into the soil at time of watering but keeps the soil from drying out evenly (or at all for that matter). The moss also keeps the surface too moist and can cause serious problems (rot bug problems). the green film collecting at the base of the plant is also most likely stemming from too much moisture in the are. In the future when you repot you could get rid of this by using some warm water and a small soft bristle brush, or you can purchase a bonsai spray made specifically for removing moss etc.. from the base of the trunk which you can spray on the effected area and it will simply wash off (safe for the plant too). I would also recommend repotting the tree (assuming the plant is healthy and you know what your doing). the soil is most likely to water retentive, even after removing the rocks and moss. The soil should only stay wet at most up to two days. I usually repot all my bonsai relatively soon after purchase so I not only know what the soil mixture is and can therefore control its moisture better, but so I can get an idea of the root structure for further care. Good luck -Mike

Bigger is better with containers. You can be sure the pot it came in is too small, though, because shipping large containers is expensive. Tomatoes are tough and usually won't suffer much shock from being repotted (even when they're large). Just be careful with the stem and don't disturb the roots too much and you should be fine. Contrary to the prior recommendation, I would only fill the new container up to the level so that the root ball will be sitting at the proper height. Once the plant is in the new container, hold it up and pack soil around the sides. Then water it in and repeat until it's settled. For fertilizer, get a tomato fertilizer with calcium and other micronutrients. Apply at the label rate. Vegetables in containers need complete fertilizers. This post was edited by gosalsk on Sat, May 24, 14 at 9:23

BittyBatts Although the peat based potting soils degrade into very low Ph mediums, stunting plants, repotting should fix that. African Violets, potted in peat based potting soils, are fine with any water Ph 8 or under. My water is 9+ I add phosphoric acid to bring the water I use on plants to Ph 7. It was easy after I figured it out but required some math to find the parts per million of phosphorus. It also required knowledge of how to mix water and acid. how to store acid and how to dilute water with acid to the proper Ph. Trust me, water Ph, unless your water is so thick with dissolved solids you can plant in it and the Ph is above 8, you don't want to mess with it. It requires addition of acids, the best being food grade phosphoric which despite the label is extremely corrosive in its undiluted state. Also, it is necessary to know how much phosphorus (ppm) are being added when you bring the Ph down. Phosphorus is a fertilizer. It is possible to use citric acid (expensive) sulphuric (dangerous) or nitric (dangerous) so it is best to leave the water alone if you don't have an extreme problem. Or repot every 6 months to counteract the buildup of minerals and Ph in the soil Very high Ph water can, over time, seriously affect plants. Yellowing of leaves, poor growth and lack of flowers are the usual symptoms. This post was edited by lucky123 on Fri, Aug 8, 14 at 17:24

Thanks! Today I added some to the king palm. And decided since i have two full containers of palm fertilzer 3 month release type I might has well use them so I added about less than half of a table spoon of that stuff for the coco. Have you really killed container palms with it? How did they die? I've used that quite often for my coco's. But I never really gave them near as much as they say. I always feed less for two reasons. I think that the smaller dosage you give the less likely you will burn your plants. And the second is I think they will do better if you add a little bit now and then the rest a while later. So its not like feeding one big meal at one time but more like smaller meals over time. But I dont know if it has any actual benefit though. - US_Marine