Donna Roesink: I'm trying to find someplace where I wrote anything about 5-1-1 mix which is not, in any case, "mine". There is a vast number of references to it in the container forum and I believe, Al, aka Tapla is the originator. This is a fine mix for plants growing in containers because it provides excellent drainage and aeration, but is unnecessarily fussy and not well suited for plants growing in the ground. That's why I wrote that the peat and perlite were unnecessary in my second post above. If you placed the 5-1-1 mix in a hole, you may have created the very sump or bathtub effect davidrt28 mentioned above. Anyway, what's done is done. On the next one (or more) use just the bark and don't worry about screening it to a particular size. Lots of bark spread over the native soil and the rhododendrons planted in it rather than in a hole, as I suggested in the second post, is the best way I know to provide an acid, moisture retentive but fast draining medium. Again, there are lots of variables as davidrt28 points out. It's not too late to use pure bark. Spread it out a bit over the 5-1-1 and replant into it. Many years ago, I helped a friend and rhododendron dealer plant dwarf rhododendrons on pure granite ledge at a Maine summer cottage. Never more than 6" or so of bark placed directly on suitable areas of the ledge. Drip irrigation system, annual renewal of the mulch and the rhododendrons did just fine, although it has been many years since i last saw them. Your experience in digging out the first one is not untypical. Rhododendrons and azaleas produce flat, shallow root systems except in exceptionally sandy, gravelly or woodsy soil. The roots remain where there is maximum oxygen. Since you just recently moved these, I would not have expected much root extension. Keep them well watered - use just a trickle at he base of the plant - during dry spells this summer. Treat the azaleas in exactly the same way. Evergreen azaleas are tough plants, so these may regrow from the old wood. Too early in the year to know for sure. Don't use fertilizer unless a soil test indicates a need. Excess nitrogen can kill a rhododendron or azalea. It can also stimulate late soft growth that is easily killed in the winter. Find out the pH of your native soil if the foot or so of bark is not practical.

The movement of water in planting media of various types is a surprisingly complex subject. The Gardenweb Container Forum contains a great deal of information about the subject. In general, the more dissimilar the new medium is from what a rhododendron has been growing in, the more difficult the transition. Many commercial rhododendron growers do use pure bark as a planting medium in pots, but what they use contains particles of many different sizes which retains water more effectively than highly screened bark intended for orchids, many of which are epiphytic growers. This coarse bark mainly retains water as a thin surface film which rhododendron roots have great difficulty accessing. The 5-1-1 mix of Container Forum fame is a good mix for rhododendrons in pots, but must be changed every 3 years or so. Whenever you are trying to establish a rhododendron in a new environment, avoid direct sun, try to maintain high humidity, water - if needed - with a trickle at the plant base from a hose. If you still get wilting leaves, don't hesitate to soak the rootball again if it is dry. Submerge in water, pot and all, for a half hour or so. Re-dig, soak and re-plant ones in the open garden.

My rhodies look exactly the same. We've never pruned them. They are all natural and we didn't plant them....they chose where they wanted to grow. Or rather Mother Nature did. We've never disturbed them sprayed around them or done anything to change their environment. Several years ago, they were florabund, but last 2 years, this is all we've gotten. (same as your photo) However; the mountain laurel and the native flame azaela have gone crazy blooming this year and they thrive under the same exact conditions. It's a real mystery. The only thing I can think of is that the plants have gotten "too mature" or the trees around them have and are leeching the nutrients. We are talking about 100-200 rhododendrons on our property and all have the same problem. Yet, the ones just a few feet less elevation on our same road are blooming beautifully.

A couple of things are going on. Photo #2 is showing rhododendron leaf spot, Septoria azaleae. Photo #3 & 5 show lacebug damage, not aphids. IME, aphids seldom bother any broadleaved evergreen. Don't really see any yellow foliage. New growth typically comes in a much lighter green, almost chartreuse, but will darken as they mature.