Well, what are your other options? In my MN kitchen, they told me the exact same thing about a 33x33 lazy susan cab. The KD said the door would be too small to be functional. He specifically said I wouldn't be able to "get my shoulders in there" (?! whatever!). Of course, I ignored that silly shoulders-in-the-cab notion and put a 33x33 in anyway. It worked just fine and I loved it. I did NOT ever need to fit my whole body inside and I never lost anything in the back. It was the only cab in between my sink and my stove (see below). I used the susan cab daily - it held my mixing bowls, small appliances (food processor, hand mixers, etc), larger tupperware and pitchers. I never found the opening to be too small or too inconvenient, and I never had a problem putting things in or getting things out. I did have two doors (hinged on either side of the cabinet and opening in the middle rather than the usual door that hinges together in the middle), so that may have made a difference. But FWIW, if I had to choose between a 33" lazy susan and a blind corner cab, I'd choose the susan every time. 33" Lazy susan cab: Open:

You can use a long lag bolt, locate stud centers and drive them in... use the angle grinder and cut the hex head off the bolt, pre-drill mantle and use something like Sika Bond or another good quality structural adhesive and slide the mantle on. Places where you have shiplap you have to shim that area out to keep the mantle straight vertically. Make sure to tape everything up to prevent any squeed out glue getting on the surrounding surface including the mantle. Good luck and have a Happy and a Healthy New year!

I have a square basement shower (~38x42") that we changed to having frameless glass. There is water spray pretty much constantly on the door during my daily shower. The water bounces off my body onto the doors and when I’m whipping the handheld around, the door gets inadvertently sprayed. I have a fixed panel and a door that swings in and out. Like the other poster mentioned, there is a plastic strip (vertically) between the fixed panel and swinging door. No water seems to get through this vertical space. There is also a plastic strip (horizontally) at the base of the swinging door. There used to be two sort of layers of clear strips but one peeled off so now there’s just one strip which deflects the water somewhat but not entirely. When I finish showering (and squeegeeing the door), there is always a little puddle of water sitting on the curb but no water seems to spill over onto the bathroom floor. It’s just part of my routine to wipe the curb before I get out of the shower.

Four options: Trim the hinge side but as others have mentioned you'll probably run out of solid wood to attach the hinges. The door won't look very good either. Trim both sides. You still still probably have an issue with the hinges and will need to fill in where the door was bored for the lockset. Enlarge the rough opening, which is going to be a lot of work. Order a door in the correct size. If you trim the door you're going to need a circular saw, fine tooth blade, and some kind of straight edge ($25 if you make one, $100+ if you buy one). You'll also need a couple of hole saws - one to cut the plug, one to cut the new hole - plus a spade bit to drill for the latch, chisels or template/router for the hinges. If you do trim, be careful with the piece you cut off the hinge side. Use that to lay out for the new hinge mortises rather than trying to measure. If you do go this route, I would strongly suggest practicing on one of the old doors first! Personally I would just order a new door and be done with it. Sell the old one or donate it.