Ficus Deltoidea in Gritty Mix

8 years ago

Slowly getting everything repotted into gritty mix. I've just been using window screen over the drainage hole because it's all I had. What size screen does everyone else use? Any thoughts on how I should start pruning this? Not sure if I want to try it as a bonsai?

Featured Answer

tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)

8 years ago

Josh - The wick is to help remove much of the water that has a tendency to remain in the soil and resist the force of gravity because the pull of capillarity (the sum of the attraction that makes water want to stick to itself and other materials) is greater than the force of gravity. A wick 'fools' the water into 'thinking' the pot is deeper than it really is, so when water moves down the wick it gets 'pushed' off the bottom of the wick by the weight of other water molecules traveling down the wick behind it. This is an oversimplification, but allows you to see it in action through your mind's eye. See 'E' compared to 'A'

****************************************************************

Jowitakeitel - I would move your plant outdoors asap, but not allow it to be exposed to temps below 55*, which means moving it in at night if it gets that cool. You can approach acclimation in 2 different ways - skip it or take 10 days to 2 weeks to gradually move it into full sun. If you skip it, you move it directly into full sun where the leaves burn and fall off, and the tree quickly puts on a new flush of growth and you repot and prune in June. My tendency would be to push a wick into the drain hole, set it in full sun, flush the heck out of the soil, fertilize, and do your repotting/prune in June. The later advice comes to you from the department of redundancy department, since I already mentioned it twice already.

FWIW, your tree looks like it's just waiting to have someone take control over it's well being, and it's aching to show it's appreciation for your stepping up on its behalf. I think you're about to see a pretty remarkable transformation.

This might be very helpful.

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (20)

rina_Ontario,Canada 5a
8 years ago
Window screen is just fine...
tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years ago
I agree.

I agree with Rina. I use Fiberglas insect screen or the plastic canvas used in some needlepoint projects.

There is no difference in how plants respond to "bonsai pruning techniques" as opposed to "houseplant pruning techniques" because they are one and the same; and what would make a bonsai look has the same potential to make a houseplant look good. What separates a proficient bonsai practitioner from a houseplant devotee (when it comes to pruning and root pruning) is primarily the intimate familiarity the bonsai practitioner has with the process.

FWIW - it's difficult to give meaningful pruning advice based on a single 2D image.

Nice plant!

Al
0
Related Discussions
Switching ficus to gritty mix?
Q
Comments (2)
Al (Tapla,) who is the creator of gritty mix frequents the container (& houseplant) forum. You've probably heard from him by now in the container forum?
...See More
Fiddle leaf ficus repot in gritty mix, sad roots
Q
Comments (1)
Photos would help. Also, this is the edible fig section. You'll have better luck in the house plants section. Do a search for fiddle leaf figs (Ficus Lyrata) on the forums. There are about 73927492 threads and your questions could possible be answered.
...See More
Ficus Lyrata repot to gritty mix, sad roots
Q
Comments (5)
I did the same thing last fall with a big sprawling and very sad looking schefflera that had lost most of its leaves, and found the same thing--virtually no fine roots, just thick and mostly woody encircling roots. I did prune almost all the thick roots but left one woody one alone to hold the plant up while I filled the pit with 5:1:1, shaking and tapping the pot to make sure the mix filled in all the books and crannies. Be aware that the plant will sulk longer than if you repotted in the spring, but it will grow a few new leaves in the winter and really liven up in late spring and summer with longer days and more light. A south or southwest facing window will help, and I recommend adding supplemental light in the winter, even if it's just a few 100W bright white (5000-6500k) CFL or LED bulbs in regular fixtures close to the leaves. All my plants, including the repotted scheff, went from practically dormant to getting new leaves after I added the light in late fall.
...See More
Plant Home Alone for Two Weeks: 6ft Ficus Lyrata Tree in Gritty Mix
Q
Comments (11)
Since you want the gritty mix to remain that way, I wouldn't topdress with peat or moss. Covering the media surface with a towel would reduce evaporation from the media surface. I'm sure others will chime in with suggestions but one I would toss out there is lower the apt temp/thermostat. You didn't mention at what temp you typically keep your home. If during your absence temps are in the upper 50s low 60s, the tree's metabolism will slow resulting in less transpiration as will evaporation in general. If a wide metal pan(s) (like a deep wide cake pan) are set on top of the radiator and filled with water, then the room humidity would be further increased when the radiator kicks on until the water is gone. (And with metal pans, you wouldn't have to worry about them catching fire/burning.) Extra humidity in the air will further reduce water loss by the tree. Btw, tree is looking good. Looks like it could go up a pot size or two this summer. Looks like Petrushka posted a similar idea while I was typing. :-)
...See More
Josh
Original Author
8 years ago
Thanks Al and Rina. I didn't use a wick on any of mine, though it did cross my mind. Is the wick to allow the bottom portion of the mix to dry faster?
0
jowitakeitel
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
Hi! I'm sorry I'm writing under somebody else's post but I posted a question about ficus benjamina somewhere else on houzz and got no answer:(
I have a ficus benjamina that I have bought at home depot maybe 4 years ago. It has been in different room before and was losing leaves many times. I moved it few months ago to different room where it gets more light and I water less often. it doesn't shed leaves anymore and grows actually leaves on top, but the inside branches are dry and have no leaves and even on top some leaves grow small and later the branches on top dry up too. I would like the plant to look fuller and not so spindly, also I must say it did not grow a lot since I bought it. My questions are: should I repot it into gritty mix? I already bought it. If so, should I add gypsum to the mix or just fertilize it every time I water? I live in Atlanta area, should I put the plant outside or can it stay inside? Thank you sooo much in advance for response.
0
Josh
Original Author
8 years ago
WE GET IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
0
Dave
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
If you put it in the gritty mix, you need to fully repot and remove ALL of the old soil.

Moving it outside will greatly help it fill out. You must acclimate to full sun or you'll burn a lot of leaves. However, if that happens, new ones will grow back that can handle full sun so it doesn't matter much.

I'd also prune it back to help with back budding.

Got mine at lowes a little over a year ago for $20. It was 4' tall and is now over 7'. Mainly due to being outside last summer. That said, in the 4 years you've had it, your tree should have grown a lot more and isn't growing due to the cultural conditions you're providing. No offense.
0
Josh
Original Author
8 years ago
Makes sense Al. So if I wanted to air layer a tree about 3/4" in diameter and the clone would be about 2-3' tall, do I just make a slice above a leaf node and below a leaf node and peel that off and wrap it? I guess my question is where to remove the cambium layer and how wide of a layer to remove.
0
tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years ago
You needn't remove bark in a specific place if propagation is your only goal, but the ht of the bark removed should be equal to 1.5X the diameter of the branch/trunk at that point. For Ficus b, you should ring the bark entirely.

A couple of other ways to layer below

The bark would be ringed or there would be a tourniquet around the branch in the last 2 pictures.

Al
0
Josh
Original Author
8 years ago
It's for a Ficus Elastica. So where exactly so I make the rings? Above and below a leaf node, or both directly below? Can I just wrap it in some highly composted pine bark? I don't have any peat on hand, but the composted pine fines seem like they'd stay moist for quite a while.
0
Dave
8 years ago
Jow,

can you make a new thread in this section of the forum about the issues you'd like to resolve? We can talk about the ficus and also your spider mite issue with your Schefflera.

Let's try not to hijack this thread so things don't get confusing.
0
tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
Use the flap method for elastica (second picture above) & slide toothpicks under the flaps to hold them open. How did we get to elastica from mistletoe fig? You should use a well-aerated soil and a container like I showed with the twig through it but with a hole through the bottom if required, or use sphagnum moss as your medium for air layers.
Al
0
Josh
Original Author
8 years ago
Thanks Al. Could you give me some specifics, such as: Location of flaps in relation to the nodes, length of flaps (still 1.5X diameter of plant?), depth of flap cuts. Thanks for the help.
0
tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years ago
It doesn't matter where you cut the flaps - cut them anywhere along an internode. If you look closely at the picture above, you can see I cut through the phloem, the xylem, and took a little sapwood when I made the cuts. After you make the cuts, stick a piece of toothpick or a small pebble under the flap to hold it open. Cut them long enough so you have a flap. The ones in the picture are about 1" long. The number of flaps depends on the diameter of the branch/stem you're layering.

Al
0
Josh
Original Author
8 years ago
Ok so 3-4 flaps would be good for a 3/4" diameter tree? Can I just use some gritty mix as the medium?
0
tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years ago
4 flaps for a 4/4" tree, and the gritty mix should be great if you're using the pot method and don't mind waiting a couple of weeks longer, otherwise get some sphagnum moss and do the more traditional layer with the moss wrapped in plastic and the whole layer covered by aluminum foil.

Al
0
Josh
Original Author
8 years ago
So, I had it done before you responded and only used 3 flaps, but the plant is closer to 5/8 so I think it will work. Does it need to be air tight or can I leave it like this? Let me know what you think and as always thanks for the help, it is very much appreciated.
0
tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years ago
The moss should be damp - not wet, so there should be provision for drainage from the bottom of the layering capsule. Traditionally, they are sealed at the top - like a sausage, with only a small opening to add a little water when necessary. Maybe you could fashion a cover from aluminum foil, which would block light and slow evaporation. Use a spritzer to remoisten the sphagnum moss & don't over-wet it.

Al
0
Josh
Original Author
8 years ago
I used gritty mix for the medium and it can drain from the bottom. I can put a piece of foil around it. Hope I did it right!
0
tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
That should work - didn't realize it wasn't moss - didn't click the pic to enlarge. DO use something to block the light, though.

Al
0