I am dealing with this problem on a newish peach as well. I have been searching the internet (which is how I found this thread). I read on one of the university sites that some of the resistant cultivars need to be sprayed for the first couple of years until they are established, at which time they can fight off infection. So really infection at this stage doesn't necessarily mean your tree is doomed. Depending on the variety, it may be able to fight once it gets comfortable in its new setting. It also may be affected every year. I see Jean's point, but I think she was a bit heavy-handed about it. For myself, I am hoping to find something less toxic than copper and Bordeaux mixture that will help my tree along until it can cope better. Good luck to you! Ellie

I also wonder whether they are moist enough too? 34C is rather warm especially with such an airy mix with the 50% perlite in it plus not having an airtight lid would also let any moisture you have given them escape. Is the mix evenly moist?...it needs to be wetted thoroughly but not sopping wet. If you cut an individual cling film cover for each pot attached with an elastic band this may help keep the moisture in better. When they do sprout I would be careful they don't get too drawn as the soil is far down the cups....I would cut each cup down so the soil is 1/2 inch below the tops. If they don't show in a few more days, I would be tempted to fish them out and see if they are still viable by very gently squeezing them, re-pot them if OK, maybe in a mix with less perlite and try again. Seed/seedlings do not need such a fast draining mix as older DR's. as they need the moisture around them, they can't dry out in the early stages. Hope this helps, good luck and keep us posted. Gill from the UK.

I only spray with Micro-Cop (linked below, but sold at most nurseries and I think at Lowe's) because lime sulfur will damage apricots and my apricots are intermingled with my peaches. It comes in a package with "Stay-Stuck" to mix in with the concoction, so it will stick better to the branches. It is offered on organic websites, so it isn't very toxic, but be sure not to breathe it in when mixing or spraying. The mixing instructions are on the package. Be careful--the green color stains, and your sprayer will be forever green! Your spray schedule is about right-on. I have had my early peaches start to break in January before, but if you get the first 2, it shouldn't be such a big deal if you miss January. Spraying after blooms break and especially after fruit forms does nothing to prevent the curl (they get infected breaking out--once infected, it's too late.) Another problem are peaches that won't drop their leaves. Here it is the middle of November, and I still have some varieties with green leaves going strong. Obviously unless I strip their leaves off, a Thanksgiving spray is not happening! I have never used dormant oil, but I think you need to wait 2 weeks in between dormant oil sprays for bugs and sprays for curl. Hope this helps! Carla in Sac Here is a link that might be useful: http://www.groworganic.com/microcop-sta-stuk-m-twin-pack-8-oz-of-each.html

Bacteria are not harmful in garden soil. Actualy what is called "micro organism =microbes" are rsponsible for a lot of healthy things. They even live inside us.They make your bread rise, milk yogurt, grape juice wine, and alcohol to vinigar. Sewage treatment is best done with the help of bacteria. I have seen documentaries that the water coming out of sewage treated by bacteria and down the stream same water was drinkable. But, in your case, you are not consuming anything from soil directly. The vegetables will not be affected by bacteria(living organisms), but they could be affected by chemicals (non-living things). If I were you I would not worry about that sewage leakage into garden, way back when. That leaked material has been dealt with the benefitial bacteria and the balance has been restored. Even if it were not, your basils are smart enough not to take them in.