Have you removed any gasket and actually stuck you hand down in it and all around as well as a visual check? I had one of my sinks sticking and it was backing up into the DW. I couldn't figure out why, and I put ice cubes, sme citrus and something leafy down. When I stucj my hand down there, there was some kind of beige goo -- I suspect it was some fat off some kind of meat that had been trimmed and it was soft enough that it didn't get cut up and washed down -- might have been caught under the side or on the blades -- not sure where it was because I could never see it. I got a paper towel and removed the guk -- ean another lemon or whatever I had down it, ran another DW cycle and we've been good since. Hope that helps. Good luck figuring it out.

Well I was told that after washing rubber backed rugs in my f/load washer I should do a cold rinse with a cup of white vinegar and that would cut out any loose particles left from the rugs.I don't wash them after they start peeling so much but I have used the vinegar rinse and have never had a problem. I have no idea if that would do anything for the gel but I don't see where it would hurt.I wouldn't worry about it as long as it is pumping out ok and you got all you could see out of the drum.I am sure their are some Asko owners who will have more ideas as to what might help your problem.

Here is the first reply. Take a soft cloth I usually use an old t-shirt and mineral oil gently wipe it. It will leave lines in the gel but in a few hour a day at the most those will disappear.

Maddie, I am cutting/pasting/editing my gel stain info for doing kitchen cabinets. Your job will much be easier!!! I'd recommend you try just the Java coats alone. Be sure to put a number of Clear coats on for durability. SHOPPING LIST: > -mineral spirits to clean the years of gunk off the table > -miracle cloths (optional) > -fine sandpaper > -box-o-disposable gloves from walgreens or the like > -old socks or rags for wiping on coats > -disposable small plastic bowls or plates, and plastic spoons or forks for > stirring/dipping (optional) > -General Finishes Java gel stain (poly based) > -General Finishes clear top coat (poly based) > -old sheets or plastic sheeting or newspaper > > Rockler woodworking stores are a good place to find the General Finish > products. Or some larger hardware stores. Quart of each was more than > enough for my 60 doors and drawer fronts and goes for $12-14 at Rockler. > There are smaller sizes if your project is small. > > > SETUP AND PLANNING: > You will need a place to work and leave wet doors to dry overnight - I set > up 2 spaces, garage for sanding/cleaning and basement for > staining/sealing. > Use newpaper or plastic to protect the surface and floor. Figure out how > you > will prop doors to dry. > Plan blocks of 20-30-minutes for sanding/cleaning bundles of, say, 6 > doors at a time. Then just 10 minute sessions to wipe on coats. The coats > will need to dry for about 24 hours, so figure that each section of the > kitchen will be doorless for 4 or 5 days. Divide the job up into manageable chunks. > > > PREPARATION: > Take off doors and drawer fronts. Use screw drill bits on an electric drill if you don't have an electric srewdriver. Remove all the hardware. *Mark > alike things so you know what goes back where.* > Clean the doors thoroughly. Not with TSP but with something pretty strong > and scrub well. There's years of grease there. > Sand LIGHTLY, just a scuffing really. Just enough to break the finish and > give it some tooth, no more than a minute a door. A miracle cloth is good > for getting most of the dust off. Then wipe well with mineral spirits to > clean and get the last of the gunk off. > . > > STAINING: > In order, we're gonna put on: > -General Finishes Java gel stain (couple coats) > -General Finishes Clear urethene gel topcoat in satin (couple coats) > > But first put on work clothes, tie up your hair and pop your phone into a baggie nearby (you know it will ring). > Glove up. > *First do a trial on the back of a door > Open and stir up the Java gel stain, then spoon some into a plastic bowl. > Close the tin so it doesn't get contaminated. Slide a sock over your hand, > grab a gob of Java and smear it on. Color is a rich dark blackish reddish brown. Wipe off the excess. Let it dry well- overnight is good. > Repeat with more Java gel. Wait for the second coat to > judge if the color is deep enough for you. I wanted a very deep dark > color, > like melted dark chocolate. So I went pretty heavy on these layers. *I did not sand between coats*. > > Repeat with clear gel top coats. This will give you the strength you need in a kitchen. > > Do the same process with the cabinet sides, face and toekick area. Might > need to divide that up also, and stagger the work: doors/cabinets/doors/ > etc. > > NOTE: The cloth or socks used for the gels are very flammable! Collect and > store them in a bucket of water as you go and then dispose of them all properly. > > > FINISHING AND REASSEMBLY: > I suggest you put the doors back up after one clear coat, then you can check > everything over and darken an area with more Java if needed, followed by a > clear coat. When it all looks right, go over it all again with another > clear > gel coat. Or two. Install your hardware. > The feel of the finish should be wonderful, really smooth and satiny. > Color > deep and rich - way nicer than that faded, beat 80's oak color. > > > FINAL THOUGHTS: > Definitely experiment first with the back of a door or drawer front to be > sure it is the look you want. Front end patience is worth it. > > This is a pretty easy project to do. Hard to screw it up. The worst is the > prep - relative to that, smearing on the coats is cake. >(Add: I'm now (18 months later) seeing some wear near two pulls >on the most used cabinets. Will add color with Java if it bugs me. Good luck!