hb, Make a thin metal probe that can be easily pushed into the soil. Some landscape store have it, but you can make your own with a handle on top to help you push it down and up again. Follow the mainline by probing and striking (softly) the mainline. It should be fairly close to the other boxes. Check if there is more than one mainline from the source(teed off). Is the irrigation on a hose bib or directly from the hose mainline? Try this also. Manually turn on the two unaccounted for zones and listen on the mainline with your ear on your fist on the probe. Listen for water movement noise. Using the probe in this manner and follow the mainline and noise. If there is noise you will eventually hit a very soft spot where the leak is and probably the box. GL JMHO Aloha

The purpose of the cotyledons (seed petals) is to nourish the seedling until the first couple of true leaf pairs have fully emerged and are producing carbohydrates via photosynthesis to feed further cell division (growth). When you rip off or bury the cotyledons, you rob the seedling of photosynthesis and nutrients provided by the cotyledons. Now, does that make sense ... to rob your seedlings of their natural method of initial nurishment, photosynthesis and growth? Nope! When potting up little seedlings with just the first true leaves emerging or partially developed, I strongly advise leaving the cotyledons exposed to light so they can do their job. Wait until the cotyledons become yellowed and withered before taking them off the stem or burying the seedling up to the first true leave stems.

In a way, this matter seems to me so typical of rose growing -everything depends on location, perhaps. Here in Tuscany, Italy, I have learned that the best way to plant a grafted rose is to place it so the graft is only SLIGHTLY below soil level. It's important that only the " bulbous" bud union is buried, however,or at most only the very tiniest bottom of the scion's canes. If done correctly, many rose wil "go own-root", and you wind up with the best of both worlds. But woe betide the rose that is planted a little too deeply! they wind up sprouting roots at the bottoms of each cane,thus creating a small thicket of teeny-weeny wimpy seperate little plants all competing and bickering with each other,and if you don't catch the problem, dig up the rose and fix the issue quickly,the plant never flourishes,declines into nothing.But apparently this doesn't happen in some cold northern climates, where I read of gardeners planting their roses very, very deeply.I feel equally "shocked" when I read of roses being planted with the graft above the ground! yet clearly sultryjasminefinds this the best way to do it. Now, sjn is in Florida, zone 9a; here in Tuscany, we are more or less a zone 8 or 9; to me that just goes to show that the whole thing about USDA zones has only a very limited value; the climates are completely different. The idea of flooding in my garden seems preposterous; it is on a mountain, on a sharp, sharp slope (though as I write this, part of me whispers"but with Global Warming, you never know!"). I've never lived in Florida, but from what I've read the soil there is quite particular, too, and totally different from mine.The same goes for California,I think. So, Sharon, I think your best bet is to follow advice given by local rose growers or at least other Florideans (is that a word). I do not know much about the different rootstocks to be able to give an educated opinion ; all I can say is that here they don't seem to use Dr. Huey at all (the only 2 I can think of are Laxa and Multiflora).So far I have not had the serious problems with rootstock suckers of which Jackie writes,but my garden is very, very young in comparison to hers, so even there it's hard to come to a definitive conclusion.

I bought the same pot from Home Depot about a year or more ago. Home Depot had a handful of hanging pots full of healthy Cotyledon penden, so of course I had to have one. I‘m in a similar boat as you. Mine isn’t as sparse, but definitely could use some help. This plant has been totally neglected. I’m embarrassed to say it’s in the same nasty hard soil I purchased it with. It’s funny you posted this now because this plant has been on my mind. I don’t know if this is the correct plan of action, but this is what I would do with your plant. First if the soil is rock hard water from the bottom up. Let in sit in a tray of water for about 10 mins or until the soil is moist. Then let it absorb water for a few days. Skip this step if you’ve already been watering. Next step is to unpot and go thru the whole plant, keep what’s good and throw away anything dead. Then repot in a smaller pot that has drainage holes because after going thru the plant there probably isn’t as much of the plant left to fill the old hanging container. Repot in a mix that is better suited for succulents like half perlite and or pumice mixed with half cactus soil. If you find any stems that look healthy but have no leaves replant and give the stems a little snip to hopefully stimulate new growth. These leaves will propagate so don’t throw away any healthy leaves. You can water the day after the repot. This is just what I would do, but I’m sure there are other ways to tackle this. Goodluck🙂.