If it were a real plant I'd agree that it's possibly from the Senecio genus. Must have to those candles as well Harry!

Your succulent is a Sempervivum:). Tbh I would just throw this guy out and here’s why. It looks like this plant had been in not enough light, then all of a sudden it was put in too much light too fast. All plants should be acclimated slowly to stronger light, even succulents. Semps are definitely an outside plant. I have yet to see a nice Sempervivum plant grown inside. They’re very hardy down to -20F. So outside they should go;). Next succulents need the best drainage around, and from the looks of it your mix looks water retentive. Most store bought cactus mixes are peat based which either retains water when watered too much. Then if let to dry out, which most succulents need, the peat will become hydrophobic and repell water. I find peat when dried out chokes the roots too. An easy fix is 50%-60 rinsed strained perlite or pumice combined with cactus mix. Pots should always have holes. Can succulents be grown in pots without holes? Yes, but it’s a tricky thing. Drainage holes are a must. Lastly if you decide to buy another Sempervivum they are monocarpic. Which means they bloom once and die:(. Most of the time they’ve produced little babies for you before they kick the bucket;). I have a few starting to bloom now. Goodluck;). ps- I hope I didn’t discourage you. Low light causes weak growth and it can be hard to bring them back. I’m just trying to save you time, but if you want to see what happens with your little plant that’s fine;). Just repot in the mix I suggested, try to get all the old mix off the roots before putting in new mix, and acclimate slowly to stronger light. Morning sun afternoon shade is a good start, and tbh that could be enough sun for your Semp depending on what your climate is like. Sempervivum fry in my summer sun no matter how slowly I acclimate;) edit: I was writing my long winded comment while Poly put up a nice short sweet one.

If there are any healthy roots, I would start watering. If plants root ball is wet, wait few days. If dry, you can start watering after a day - waiting just enough for any possible cuts to heal. You don't want any live roots to dry up. I am not familiar with EB soil. Personally, I prefer inorganic mixes. I would likely add lots of perlite (or pumice if available) to the bagged C&S soil as they in general do not dry fast enough. You want to avoid water retention, or it could end up in similar situation as you already experienced. You could check your soil by using bamboo skewer or chopstick or even pencil: insert it deep into pot (at least 3/4 deep) and leave for couple of min. Take it out and see/feel - if dry, time to water. If damp or feeling cold, wait bit longer before watering again. Shoots may take a while to grow so hat may not bebest way to judge. I can't remember exactly, but it may have been between 8-12 mo for new growth to appear (from the roots, circled in photo I posted ). Try not to take it out of mix to see if roots are growing :) After about a mo, gently tug on plant - if you feel any resistance, roots are growing and anchoring the plant. But maybe best is just t let it be...watched pot never boils :):):) Btw, I found thread I mentioned in my previous post; it deals with growing/propagating gasteria from leaves. But I think you'll find lots of great info there, and great photos. Look at the potting mixes ppl are using - mostly quite gritty, that provides great drainage. Notice that it took bit over a year to get lots of offsets, so patience is required.-CLICK HERE PLEASE - And perhaps some are faster growers than others. I had this one for about 2 years before it started growing offset (but it grew in size I the meantime):Few others seems to pup more - at least for me:

I don't know if this helps you or not...but, one thing i've come to learn from living all over California and having grown may succulents of all types for many years is that you must learn which micro-climate you're growing in. California is huge so knowing this is key to success in my observation. In the La Jolla area we get a maritime layer which some of my plants thrive in while others do not. We are at the mercy of what they call "May Gray," and "June Gloom." Find ways to anticipate this and protect your plants as best as you can. Now that we are over "the drought" i have to safe-guard my plants from the deluge of rain we now get in our winter-time. Knowing this now i make sure my soil is quick-draining and in a grittier mix. If your plants appear the same day after day, week after week etc., make sure they're not in a state of dormancy. Aeoniums for example are summer-dormant so i do not water them. They flourish again in cooler temperatures. If you're really having an issue choose a plant and remove it from its pot and thoroughly inspect the roots. Make sure the root system is healthy and insect-free. Many plants stop growing when attacked by insects. Many plants also seem to enter a sort of "stasis" when too hot or too cold. My echeverias for example have curled into a ball due to the excessive heat. This is the way the plant protects itself. They will "bounce" back when the temps cool off a bit. Compare the growing conditions you currently have your plants in to the native environments they come from and adjust as best you can. Absorbing all this will find you one day with all the skill you need to grow your plants successfully. You will know exactly what to do and when to do it. Time and patience will soon pay off. There are many forum members here so full of knowledge and a wealth of experience i am still amazed by it. I still also show up here to learn more from them. --All the best : )