hostas - any size, shape & color that you could ask for

Hi pinkgator, Can you be more specific about where you live? Is it zone 9a or 9b? Makes a big difference to some of these plants. In your choices, astilbe is unlikely to do well as it needs more cold. Philodendron you have to look up the type individually for cold tolerance, but if you are 9b, there are many types that would work under your oaks. Leather ferns need a lot of moisture and would be unlikely to get that under oaks unless you sprinkle quite a bit or are able to water it with a hose regularly. Liriope are likely to do well. Caladiums are tricky. If you live in 9b, they have a decent chance of coming back each year. In 9a, I doubt it, but you could plant them as annual bulbs and they would be beautiful under oaks. I am in 9b/10a Sarasota, and I have loads of oaks. I have variegated ginger, understory palms (chinese fan palms, wallichias, arengas, cabada and several others), many types of philodendrons, bird's nest anthuriums, landscape begonias, white bird of paradise, firespikes, pentas, macho ferns, fishtail ferns, holly ferns, heliconias, cast iron plants for extremely dry, non-irrigated areas, beautyberry bushes, wild coffee, brunsfelsia, cycads (dioons, encephalartos, zamias, coonties), powderpuffs, crotons, acalyphas,shrimp plants, justicia golden flame, and many others I'm sure. The trick is to not disturb the roots when you plant, choose something that won't require much irrigation (live oaks can decline if they get pampered too much with water, thick mulch, added soil on top of roots), and add as little as possible in terms of additional soil or thick mulch. I love Meem's garden (Hoe and Shovel). In that photo you see variegated alpinia zerumbet (ginger), liriope, dianellas, landscape begonias (red and large round lily-pad types), holly ferns and saw palmettos. Browse her site and you'll get loads of ideas! Good luck and have fun. Anna

That moss is more than likely growing there because of a soil problem, most likely low organic matter levels in the soil, as well as low sunlight that all grasses need to grow. Start working on eliminating the moss be getting a good, reliable soil test done. Ialk with the people at your counties Ohio State University Cooperative Extension Service about having that done and also dig in with these simple soil tests. 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. The results of these tests can guide you in making corrections to the soil so other types of plants have a better chance of growing there. Here is a link that might be useful: OSU CES

I'm afraid you can suffocate your tree if you add more than 2 or 3 inches a year of soil and etc. over the roots of your trees. Been there, done that, and I am still paying for it even after I removed most of the soil. Having said that I have a whole garden area under my oak tree including pathways. The soil should be in good shape because of all the leaves (that's if you left the leaves on the ground) that fall and decompose. I have planted all types of tropical plants and salvias under this tree. If all your trees are fairly close you may want to add a landscape design that includes, if you have it, some of your sunnier areas. This will be different from just putting circles around each tree. This may be a larger project then you may want to take on but it can be done a little at a time. The feeder roots of your oak tree are usually around 12" deep so I would stick with putting smaller starts of plants in, one gallon size or less. Stay away from the 3 gallon size. Good luck and remember if you are not happy with the way the plants look you can always change it.