Nursery plant may be sick? Bacterial canker? Help! (X-posted)
Garden Lover
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
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Cherry bacterial canker fatal?
Comments (29)5-31-15 Yorkville, IL (SW exurb Chicago) I think I am getting a brutal education on bacterial canker in sweet cherry. Please provide advice as to whether I should remove my ?infected? trees immediately. I have four (4) semi-dwarf cherry trees - Montmorrency, Balaton, Bing, and Black Tartarian. They are Starkbros trees - don't know rootstock. The two tarts are about 10 yrs old and the two sweets are about 5-6 years old. They are planted about 25 feet apart in a 4-corner pattern with the sweets opposite each other and adjacent the two tarts. I am gravely concerned that the sweets, if truly infected, are going to infect the highly prolific tarts, each of which in all reasonable weather years have a full load of fruit. Presently I have no significant insect problem (I hope) - PC seems non-existent but lately finding occasional green soldier bugs and occasional lady bug-like insects. On both sweets, I have been monitoring a trunk split problem since early spring which I thought was attributable to growth and weather. I also had quite a few brown buds that I believe are blossom blast. I again thought that was weather damage. I did see flowers but not many compared to the tarts - but as I stated some buds were 'damaged' and I presumed the sweets were just less hardy than the tarts. Presently lots of green leaves, but only scattered fruit. Always on the lookout for the dreaded fungal leaf spot, I became alarmed this week when leaves started dropping. Leaves are yellow with angular spots. The bark splits appear to have gotten uglier and are oozing. From the reading I have done in the last few days - it appears the trees have classic bacterial canker symptoms. I can see I violated several cultural principles - namely planting young trees with old trees, not protecting the trunk during winter, and last year I made some minor pruning cuts to remove lower limbs - and though it was dry weather and I used pruning paint I did not disinfect the cuts or let cuts dry out, and I did not leave stubs either as I have read on this site is a good way to insure the pruned area dries out. Instead I removed nuisance lower sprouts right up against the trunk. Also I have deer nibbling branches probably at least a dozen times per year. I've got photos on these pages... page1 Bing, page2 Black Tartarian url to page1... http://home.comcast.net/~8863184tuc/site/ to get to page2 click on link at top of page1 or use... http://home.comcast.net/~8863184tuc/site/?/page/Sweet_Cherry_Tree_Bacterial_Canker%3F_page2_%28Black_Tartarian%29/...See MoreWhat to do about Canker?
Comments (36)I have canker (diagnosed) on nearly all my roses and all of my roses get blackspot. No other problems, but isn't that enough?? I buy all of my roses online from reputable breeders/retailers. I have grandifloras, hybrid teas and florist roses. Ccurrently about 40 plants, maiden to 5 years old. In 2020, the canker arrived on a bareroot HT from a very, very "reputable", very large plant breeder/seller. Initially a lesion about 1" x 1/2", I thought it was damage from canes rubbing together during shipping. Applied some Tree Heal and forgot about it. Summer 2021, it appeared on other roses and I tried to get information about what it was. By Fall it had spread through nearly all my garden. I could not find remedies and was told to burn all affected plants because it was incurable and fatal. I cut all lesions out as soon as I found them. Also kept researching and getting some suggestions from highly educated horticulturists. I tried copper, copper combos, sulfur, bicarb, milk, neem, etc., etc. But last August I got advice from a commercial grower in Northern CA. He suggested this regimen and it seems to be working, albeit slowly. Manzate Pro-Stick - strictly an every-spot-on-the-plant-til-it-runs-off contact spray, no systemic action. No resistance with repeat use. Sprayed every 3 days over a 3 week period. "They" say spraying ground not necessary but I do anyway. Information is updated so rapidly that a few months down the road I don't want to find out that adding ground spraying increases effectiveness; Aliette WDG - this is a highly effective systemic spray (wettable powder). Sprayed on foliage it leaves ugly white spots so I only sprayed canes, once a week over a 3-week period, in conjunction with Manzate. RootShield Plus WP (wettable powder) - itis a preventive biological fungicide, Trichoderma harzianum Rafi strain T-22 & Trichoderma virens G-41. Trichoderma harzianum Rafi strain T-22 was developed by Cornell University. Foliage spray or drench. I drench it. Doesn't work if soil temperatures are 40 degrees or less. So now that it's hot, I've applied it. It lasts 3 months. I'll be able to apply it once more before it's too cold. RootShield is compatible with Aliette but not with Manzate. I'm going to start "painting" a thick coat of Aliette on entire cane where I find a lesion or I think is the beginning of a lesion. I want to see if the plant can self-heal with that help. I hope I haven't violated any rules posting all this brand info but I've had so much problem and heartache that I just wanted to share. I'm 82 yo and my roses are like babies to me. Eventually I hope to exhibit some of them. I have Big Purple, Ebb Tide, Dark Knight, Sugar Moon, Twice in a Blue Moon, Speelwerk, Folklore, Hot Princess, Hot Prince, Stainless Steel, Brocelinde, Wildfire, Flamenco, Love, Buxom Beauty, Gemini, Liz's Charm, Mavrik, Mohana, Incognito, Bees Knees, Irresistible, Neil Diamond, and another 10 that lost their names. I lost Red Intuition, Alec's Red and 8 others that I lost the names of. Anyone know what the brown spots on this cane are? This is a new development....See Moresick pungens can it be helped?
Comments (13)From Dennis W. Fulbright, Department of Plant Pathology at Michigan State University: "We now know that a group of Phomopsis strains of unknown species are at the center of the current landscape spruce problems that we are now calling Phomopsis spruce decline. Normally,Phomopsis, a fungal pathogen, is only found on young trees in nurseries and on tree farms including Christmas tree farms. For some unknown reason, this pathogenic fungus has moved out of the nurseries and tree farms and is now causing mature tree defoliation, branch death and, in some rare cases, tree death." Seems some cankers are morphing and when I heard him speak in 2012 he indicated they found some odd DNA not quite matching the usual canker suspects. tj Here is a link that might be useful: Whole article...See MoreMany of My Roses Have Canker
Comments (34)Ingrid, I don't know about a drip system - the garden is on several levels. However, it may be not too difficult - I shall at least look into it. When I water with a hose now, I put it on for 2 or 3 hours in the early morning, to give a good deep soak. But, until recently, I hand watered, mainly because it would have been so wasteful to do otherwise, as there was so much space between plants. That walflower (erysimum) is one plant, and I don't think it has even suckered, as I've had a good rootle around hoping to find one to plant elsewhere. It does seed a little - I've found around 4 seedlings. I got it as a cutting from a friend, so you can see it's very easy to propagate, without being invasive. It's taken about 3 years to reach a size of roughly 5' by 5'. Another plant I love with roses is heliotrope 'Cherry Pie". It's a pretty, pale mauve. I have it growing between 2 D de B's, and to my eye the colour combination is lovely. I've also just planted a couple of cistus, a prostrate one, and 'Snow White'. They have very low water requirement once established. So happy for you that the drip system is giving you such good results. I look forward to lots more photos....See MoreGarden Lover
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